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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Jupiter, Mar 17, 2016.
Well, it doesn't have to be VINTAGE correct, but it still has to be correct!
Yeh, that's what I was trying to say but I'm public schooled you know
Honestly I didn't know the 335 doesn't get the little flat spot for the fret board to sit on. Do they install a shim under the fret board or something?
I have a Gibson 335 neck here and the little wedges are integrated into the neck/tenon area itself. An example can be seen here in post 7
I'm sure they have done multiple things over the years.
Hey Jup, I went through Jason's whole build and he angles the mortise later on just as the plans show. The Gibby style builds I've seen (which isn't a whole bunch) is angling the mortise by using a hinged jig that is used for the neck and pickup angle (LP's?). I asked myself the same question after seeing him rout the neck pocket. David Fletcher shows a neat method on his LP Junior build around 10 minutes in:
Good stuff, thanks! That's a wicked jig...
I love watching Fletch work. Clear, clean, perfect. Never get used to that gaping maw you have to hog out for a Gibby set neck, though.
The more I thought about it, I realized that a wedge-shaped router jig would probably be the easiest way to go. So yeah, I'm gonna change my vote to angled pocket too. What I might do is make the neck first, then route a practice pocket in a flat scrap of wood (of similar thickness to the center block), just so you can dial in the angle before you go to the actual body.
I'd recommend having a good chisel available too, since those always seem to be utilized for Gibson-style neck joints from what I've seen.
Yeah, about the chisel thing...I wish I didn't suck at it. That and hand-planing. And scraping. :-/ The basics of hand woodworking...
I'm a bit of a whiz with a dremel, though!
But seriously, I'm going to have to practice alla that stuff before I can use it on this guitar.
Just spent about 40 bucks on kerfing, position markers and a 1/4" collet for my router. The S-M order has grown by a rabbeting bit and 3 bearings and a 12" radius block. So even after removing the stuff that I can wait until summer for, I'm still up over $300 with shipping. I'm still afraid to click the "check out" button on that...
About the radius block, I had this genius idea to make one out of scrap corian, but I'm running into trouble: both of my bottom-bearing router bits are cutting a hair bigger than the pattern. If I do it the way I had planned, which was to glue a piece on the pattern piece, route it to shape, glue the next piece, route IT to shape, etc., the pieces get progressively bigger; if I route each slice separately from the pattern piece, they are all the same size, but then I gotta glue 'em up together PERFECTLY, and, well, WHAT A PAIN to save 18 bucks.... So I'm buying one.
It's only money!
I did, however, end up with this sweet fret clamping caul:
I'm getting full-on into hand tools and small woodworking (jewelry boxes and such), so I've been knee-deep in chisels and planes since I bought that first one during my lap steel build. I really enjoy it, and it's much more amenable to apartment living. I'm pretty sure I lucked out with an idiot savant bonus, because sharpening chisels and planes hasn't been much of an issue for me; you really don't want to see how my kitchen knife sharpening looks though, it's a total horror show!
If you want some pointers please feel free to ask, I'm glad to help! I'm certainly no master at any of that stuff, but I've picked up a few tricks that make it easier. Just keep in mind that I use Western-style chisels and the Japanese style require a slightly different technique because of the way they're made. Still not hugely different though. At least you can buy good Japanese waterstones for half the price they cost in the US! I decided to go with good old Arkansas and India stones, because they wear slower (or in the case of Arkansas, basically a one-time life purchase.) Although I'm used to using honing oil now, a lot of people prefer the not-greasy aspect of waterstones, plus they cut much more efficiently (downside is that they wear out relatively quickly, but you're in a unique position as far as cost is concerned.)
Here's a question for the peanut gallery: keystone or kidney bean knobs on the tuners? I'm thinking I'll go with Grovers, basically because none of my guitars have 'em lol, but I have a couple choices for knobs.
Came into some time this morning to jump into some threads I've been eyeing.
Challenging project to take on - very cool.
Glad I haven't missed anything
I'd go kidney bean. Keystones might be a bit too classic a look for the DPP finish.
I basically spent the whole day on this project, man! I glued two scraps of corian together, and ordered some kerfed lining.
This could take a while...
You might be right. Kidney bean is still a bit classic, but keystones are VINTAGE...
Hmm, tough call. I think keystone, but either one could work. Grover has locking keystones now, and I think Gotoh does too.
You also might consider Hipshot's locking offerings: the open-back ones look great (and save some weight), and they've got a good dozen or so different button options to choose from. The Sperzel 3x3 sets have a nice looking button too, and they don't look out of place on the Brian Setzer and Rev Horton Heat Gretsch hollowbodies.
I'm kinda thinking these now:
I do like locking machines, though...
I gotta get some of those for my 335 as it has the exact looking non-locking Grovers. Keeping it in tune is a challenge. But that' part of the deal with 335's from what I've read. I love the guitar but get frustrated when playing live. Every second song or so it's out. Maybe the locking ones will help.
Hipshot offers the Grover-style buttons if you want them. Here's their page that shows all of their available button styles, D02 is the full-size Grover beans (D12 are the mini-beans. Hipshot designs their tuners to be modular and a lot of dealers just get a bunch of tuner bodies and boxes of buttons, to make up sets of whatever a customer wants.
StewMac has the locking version of those Grovers in stock so you can see what they look like, but S-M wants $72 a set which is way too high IMO. I'm sure you can find them cheaper elsewhere.
I think the elegance of the keystones would accentuate the absurdity of the classic 335 form in the color of a sparkly dog' s penis, and therefore the right choice.
Before you invest in expensive sharpening stones, I suggest you Google "scary sharp", and try that method. I have a drawer full of stones I've abandoned and now use a piece of glass, a couple of sheets of emery wet or dry paper, and a Veritas honing guide, and my chisels have never been sharper.
If you're talking about the 502c's they are $15 or so cheaper on eBay..
Which is why I'm considering suggesting my "epoxy flood" method of angled neck setting. Takes about 5 minutes and never comes apart, ever!