Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Jupiter, Mar 17, 2016.
Pretty sure this is the switch you want.
Watch this: https://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trad...l_pots_choosing_the_right_pots_and_knobs.html
My personal preferences, heavily influenced by Gibson OEM and rules of thumb; 500k pots, all audio taper, or audio taper for volume, and linear taper for tone. I like CTS, and prefer Bournes brands, but be sure to match what knobs you want to use with your pots’ shaft size and style- coarse splines, fine splines ( split-shaft friction retention) or round shaft with setscrew retention. Some options are not available from all manufacturers, and you might have to consider Alpha brand pots. I think Alpha also provides the smaller metric shaft diameter sizes, but you said your guitar is bored for American.
.022uF tone caps (old Stalin era newsprint pickled in Russian oil, please, but I’m good with orange drops, Gibson was fine with 15-cent disc caps.).
Long shaft pots and switches that go through wood, short shaft if through metal or plastic plate. Be sure you get 2 hex mounting nuts or a hex mounting nut and an appearance-grade round, serrated mounting nut so you can adjust how far the shaft sticks thru the guitar’s outer surface.
I think ES335’s body thickness will accommodate the longer toggle switch or the angled one that Colors spec’d above.
You can use this or another SM kit for basic guidance, AFAIK, there is no real difference between ES wiring parts and Elpee / SG wiring parts.
I would use the Bournes,CTS or Emerson's pots for sure. Alpha's have become really crappy over the last year and you don't want to be changing them out anytime soon in that guitar!
Gibson used 300k pots for a long time and then switched to the 500ks. Caps were usually .047 and .033, but then dropped to .022 and .033. There's not a lot of difference between the .022 and .033 caps to my ears. My avatar guitar uses 500k pots and .022/no cap/.033 on a 3-way switch. The .033 rarely gets used while the .022 and "no cap option" gets used regularly. So I would recommend 500k volume/500k no load tone with .022 caps.
You may need to get some long shaft pots depending on how thick the top is. And definitely get a good quality switch/jack. Use shielded wires just in case. I had a bunch of audio/video hook up cables lying around that I use, they work great and are easy to come by. Inexpensive too.
Definitely recommend CTS 500k audios, treble bleeds and .022 caps of your choice. As far as pot thread depth, definitely measure top thickness before buying. Tradional Gibson knobs use the split pot shafts, solid shafts for screw fixed knobs.
Just remember how good the guitar is going to sound when you’re healed and it’s done.
I have used the standard StewMac Les Paul wiring kit for my two 335 style guitars
I'm pretty sure I used long shaft pots and put a nut on the back of the top - be sure to measure your top thickness. Here it is in a long block righty
and a short block lefty
FWIW, I'm using PAF style humbuckers which means the 500K pots and 0.022 uF caps are perfect, you may need something different to match your pickups
After trying different options on my customized Epi Dot (with Gibson 57 Classic pups) I settled on CTS 500K audio taper mini pots (because they are easier to fish through the f-holes), Standard "Modern" Les Paul style wiring (tried the 50's wiring and did not like it at all), .022 NOS Mallory caps, and a treble bleed for each volume pot with a .001uf cap in parallel with a 150K resistor.
As I recall I used long shaft pots so I could use a nut on the "inside" to get exactly the right protrusion of the pot shaft so the knobs would sit right against the guitar top. I used an Epiphone OEM 3-way toggle switch and it worked just fine. I actually bought several of these switches at a good price and so far they are holding up fine.
I really like how it came out - it sounds great. Here's the completed wiring harness and a close up of a both "halves" of it.
Take your time, we're in noooo rush...
I believe Gibson’s current standard values are 500k LINEAR volume pots, and 500k audio for tone. Sometimes the vols are 300k. Some prefer audio, some linear tapers for the volumes. I think for me, I liked the feel of the linear volumes... it seemed smoother, but it’s a subjective thing. Tone caps are .022 and .015 for the bridge and neck. Orange drops are rugged and easy to work with; get 250v or less to keep them reasonable size.
Barnie already set me up with tone caps when he supplied the buckers for this project.
Did I send treble bleeds? I don’t remember. I highly recommend their use.
I got one (maybe two?) around here somewhere from stewmac,but seein as I’m generally an all-knobs-on-10 kinda guy, I might not mess with that. ;-)
I splashed out on a S-M deluxe Elpee wiring kit. Their seasonal gift certificate covered the shipping, and with the prices I was seeing for pots and stuff on amazon.com, it seemed competitive and simpler to get it all at once, and I’ll have some bits left over for the next build.
I also went with black tophat reflector knobs—which are almost the only kind I’ve never tried yet...
Man that wiring job is like a tutorial!
I took a pencil rubbing of the layout of the holes and the f-hole that I needed to dodge and put it on a piece of thin plywood to build the harness outside the guitar. Then ran strings in through all the holes, tied each string to the pot or switch or jack. I pulled the pickup wires out through the f-holes and soldered them into the harness, then fed everything back in through the f-holes and used the strings to pull everything through its respective hole. I think this is the pretty standard way to do it - it's the only one I have done from scratch.
Looking forward to seeing yours.
I figure I’ll just cram everything in through the slot I opened in the pickup cavity and shake the dang thing upside down until something pops out of each hole.
You can still run the stings through the appropriate holes and up through the slot you're going to feed everything through. Might make things easier.
It was remarkably easy to wire everything with the back off, tape the holes with little strings to each pot or switch and pull them in to position after the paint was dry
Also wired the pups to terminal strips in case I ever want to change them
NOW YA TELL ME
But seriously, back at that point I couldn’t see this far ahead, heck, I didn’t even half believe I’d GET this far...
I’ll definitely use the string/surgical tubing method when we get there. Just not thinking too seriously about it yet. I didn’t even think about what wires I’d need until I ordered the s-m kit last night.
I’m gonna try to sand this puppy a little, mask the cavities, neck and f-holes, and then turn it over to the pros for doing the binding, I don’t care if it costs me an extra hundred bucks. I’ve saved up that much extra over the last two months of doin nuthin.
No fair, I wasn’t listening then!
Best wishes for a DPP New Year, Jupiter... as this year fades to grey in our memories...cheers..