three hole versus four hole bridge mounting specs

[Voodoo Tremolo]

I know this topic has been covered many times. I did search the site and reviewed a lot of related threads but did not find one that answers a simple straight forward question:

Do the outer two holes of the three hole modern bridge align with the outer two holes of the four hole vintage bridge?

It looks like they do in this hole drilling guide attached but nothing beats personal experience from you folks who know first hand.

Happy Saturday everyone.

+ edited title which was wrong (said strings not holes)

 

[red57strat]

The spacing of the outer screw holes is similar, but the relationship between the screw holes and string holes is very different.

 

[Voodoo Tremolo]

The spacing of the outer screw holes is similar, but the relationship between the screw holes and string holes is very different.

Got ya. The screw holes/string holes are closer together on the three hole bridge so there are other spacing incompatibilities to deal with. It's not as simple as I hoped. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Tuxedo Poly]

The bridge drilling guide above is dual purpose.
Three hole for Fender American Standard/Series/Deluxe/Elite/Ultra bridges and four hole for vintage style bridges.
There is a relatively new kid on the block which is the American Professional four screw fixing bridge which has the same relationship between the bridge pickup and the through body holes as the three hole.

This line drawing of the different types may help.

 

[Voodoo Tremolo]

Thanks. Yes, that's helpful. I now see the top/bottom placement is also reversed on the vintage bridge.

I understood the drilling guide was for both - just posted it for comparing alignment of the outer mounting screw holes.

Is there a vintage bridge that doesn't have the raised lip around the outside?

Otherwise, looks like I'm getting this fella here:

 

[Peegoo]

More info here:

 

[AAT65]

More info here:

That picture really needs updated to use a better datum - if possible I would take the saddles as a common reference, since that’s what is actually set by the guitar geometry for good intonation, but since they are moveable that’s not so convenient!
On my AO’60s (traditional) and Elite (modern) the distance from saddle to front edge of the bridge plate is pretty much the same while the Elite string-through holes have moved forward about 4mm, giving a sharper break angle over the saddle.
I think the pictures would be more informative lined up on the front edge of the bridge plate, not on the string-through holes.
(I think you’d then see that the bridge pickup routs are in fact in the same position.)

 

[yegbert]

The bridge drilling guide above is dual purpose.
Three hole for Fender American Standard/Series/Deluxe/Elite/Ultra bridges and four hole for vintage style bridges.
There is a relatively new kid on the block which is the American Professional four screw fixing bridge which has the same relationship between the bridge pickup and the through body holes as the three hole.

This line drawing of the different types may help.
View attachment 1045766

Both the Am Std (middle) and the Pro (left) have mounting screw holes that are closer to the bottom of the Tele, than the vintage pattern. Their string through holes are at least approximately like each other, but closer to the top of the Tele, than vintage.

Squier Standards (possibly other Squiers) also had 3 screw holes down at the bottom, but even farther down than the Am Std.

Squier Standard bridgeplates had string through holes that were almost the same as Am Std, and their body STB holes were large enough that I have been able to use bridgeplates made for the Am Std on my Squier Standard Teles.

 

[yegbert]

That picture really needs updated to use a better datum - if possible I would take the saddles as a common reference, since that’s what is actually set by the guitar geometry for good intonation, but since they are moveable that’s not so convenient!
On my AO’60s (traditional) and Elite (modern) the distance from saddle to front edge of the bridge plate is pretty much the same while the Elite string-through holes have moved forward about 4mm, giving a sharper break angle over the saddle.
I think the pictures would be more informative lined up on the front edge of the bridge plate, not on the string-through holes.
(I think you’d then see that the bridge pickup routs are in fact in the same position.)

That is why I like to use the pickup’s three screw holes as the common point. Like Tuxedo Poly’s diagram.

 

[Peegoo]

That picture really needs updated to use a better datum - if possible I would take the saddles as a common reference, since that’s what is actually set by the guitar geometry for good intonation, but since they are moveable that’s not so convenient!
On my AO’60s (traditional) and Elite (modern) the distance from saddle to front edge of the bridge plate is pretty much the same while the Elite string-through holes have moved forward about 4mm, giving a sharper break angle over the saddle.
I think the pictures would be more informative lined up on the front edge of the bridge plate, not on the string-through holes.
(I think you’d then see that the bridge pickup routs are in fact in the same position.)

I made up that diagram years ago for a discussion on the difference between body string-through holes in the 'vintage' and 'modern' configurations. It is intended to show how the pickup rout of the modern style is closer to the through-holes, and why the bridges are not interchangeable.

If the builder is okay with top-loading either type of bridge, each type can easily be adapted to fit either body style.

 

[gsh1968]

I made up that diagram years ago for a discussion on the difference between body string-through holes in the 'vintage' and 'modern' configurations. It is intended to show how the pickup rout of the modern style is closer to the through-holes, and why the bridges are not interchangeable.

If the builder is okay with top-loading either type of bridge, each type can easily be adapted to fit either body style.

However it confuses the issue because the string-through holes are aligned.
It would be better to align the pickup rout and reverse the terminology - the string through holes (which have "moved") are closer to the pickup rout (same position on vintage and modern bodies).

 

[yegbert]

Thanks. Yes, that's helpful. I now see the top/bottom placement is also reversed on the vintage bridge.

I understood the drilling guide was for both - just posted it for comparing alignment of the outer mounting screw holes.

Is there a vintage bridge that doesn't have the raised lip around the outside?

Otherwise, looks like I'm getting this fella here:

There’s an eBay seller who cuts down the raised lip to minimal height; Callaham, Glendale and Hipshot sell pricey flat ones; or you can drill the holes yourself (or have them drilled) in an older MiM standard or a Gotoh (flat ones that fit vintage).

 

[Tuxedo Poly]

The Gotoh BS-TC1S has cut down sides and In Tune compensated saddles

 

[Voodoo Tremolo]

The Gotoh BS-TC1S has cut down sides and In Tune compensated saddles

I'm digging that bridge.

 

[Rhomco]

Amazon has a cut down Wilkerson with nice looking saddles for $22.
Good luck with your project,
Rob