Thinline with armrest and belly cut.

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by nickhofen, Aug 8, 2012.

  1. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    Couple of days I receive those Cocobolo fingerboards from: http://www.exotichardwoodsukltd.com/
    I like the grains and the color very much and I want to say that the guys at exotic hard woods are very polite and very professional at what they are doing, αλσο I believe that their prices are very logical, Thank you Mr. Kirk Bulton.


    The other lumber is white Korina, I had some wariness about using it for constructing my guitar’s neck, but thanks to Mr. Rich Rice and Mr. Fred Garvin I get over it.

    http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-home-depot/355683-korina-limba-guitar-neck.html

    It is time for a neck template.
     

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  2. SULTAN

    SULTAN TDPRI Member

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    Just came across your thread! Subscribed! Excellent work from a fellow country man from the land of true heroes. It really takes a lot of guts to fight for your every day living in modern Hellas of the economical crisis and have your hopes diminished every single day.Guitar building and tdpri lurking saves the day!
     
  3. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    Welcome aboard Sultan,hope you enjoy it as much as I do.:D
     
  4. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Very nice work. do you have leftover scrap from the top material? if so, do exactly the same thing to it that you did with the body in terms of finish sanding and staining, so you've got a reliable test panel before you start with the rest of the finish.

    I would recommend that you try sanding back some of the stain. I know it sounds like going backwards, but with figured woods you should keep in mind that some of the stain soaks in deeper in some places more than others as the grain swirls around. If you sand back a little (with say 220 P grit paper) you remove the areas that the stain didn't penetrate much, revealing bright, unstained wood. Meanwhile the areas where the stain soaked in will stay dark. This makes the curly figure "pop."

    Then come back with a second color of stain, maybe more yellow or more red depending on what you're after. Then seal it and leave well enough alone. You can do the burst entirely with toner or shader coats where you mix a little dye into the topcoat in an airbrush or detail spray gun, and gradually build up the color on the edges. Then cover everything with clear. It's not rocket science, but boy, it's awfully helpful to have a few pieces of scrap to test the colors on.

    I would say that the sample finish you posted is only one color, kind of a caramel, that's applied more heavily at the edges and faded out in a regular sunburst. It has been done by wiping (you sort of wash it with alcohol or water after putting on the stain, to remove some and try to get it to smear out at the edges), but it's much much easier to control if you're spraying.
     
  5. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Hard to tell from your photo, but if you want more amber, then add some red (and if that's too orange, then cut back with a little green which counters the red and makes it brown, back where we started...)
     
  6. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    that is a good trick, I like it:

    Thanks Vizcaster for your help..;)
    You have a sharp eye, the colors are water based , applied by wiping more heavily at the edges.
    The first colors was burgundy brown applied on the body and let dry for 24hrs, then was sanded back with grit paper and amber was applied again by wiping .
    The third color was applied couple of days after, is a different hue of brown and was not sanded back because I wand to put the binding on and then to do the final sanding.
    What I have in mind is to do more sanding in the center, to make amber reveal only between the pickups, something like an amber heart.
    The problem is that the leftovers I have from the grain area, as you can see the top is half grained only-I do not know how they call this kind of maple, are so small that can not give a clear result…

    By the way I like your Avatar very much!
     
  7. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Thank you, it's a Warmoth maple drop top over ash, I finished a pair of them much the way we've been discussing, only I used some water borne hybrid alkyd varnish as a topcoat so that there's an amber cast to the finish. I find this helps to bring out the shimmer and illusion in figured woods.
     
  8. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    My first ever string thru holes.:p

    The drill press doesn’t have enough clearance so I had to do the modification shown on the picture, not exactly a professional modification but did the job real good…:D
     

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  9. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Very nice Nick :)
     
  10. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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  11. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Great ! That'll last a lot longer than mdf or plywood . Yep , there is no end to the tips and tricks you can pick up here , the best place on the interweb :)
     
  12. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    Wow this amber came from the varnish?:eek:How many coats?
     
  13. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    I do not know Herb, maybe it is arrogance because I will make only one or two necks with this jig, but anyway that corian was sitting there for a long time.

    Yes, I believe that too :D
     
  14. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    The last week I was absorbed to read building threads and “How to’’ make necks…
    Here is the progress, I ruff cut the Κοrina wood to prepare it for putting it at my neck Jig and routing.
    Then I attach it on the jig with double stick tape but I discover that there was a tinny move about 1mm, longitudinal when I was touching the neck concerning the jig. To avoid this movement I clamp the neck and the jig on my workbench.
    White Korina is extra light wood and it can be cut easily.
    The routing of the headstock made according to the diagram below. This is the safest way to cut the headstock with out tear the wood apart.
     

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  15. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    Next thing I made was a 9.5inch radius wooden sanding block. That made from a pine block of wood.
     

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  16. adirondak5

    adirondak5 Wood Hoarder Extraordinaire

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    Sweet , nice job Nick :)
     
  17. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    Thank you Herb, you are very kind.
     
  18. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    To be sure, that the final radius of the block was 9.5, I trim it with a 9.5inches radius steel sheet, 2mm thick, that had 80grid sandpaper on.
     

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  19. CraigB

    CraigB Tele-Afflicted

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    Beautiful grain on that piece of cocobolo, and the top is gorgeous, Nick. Have you decided how you're going to finish it?
     
  20. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    Target Coatings has a product they call EM2000, and a previous formulation of it was called Hybrivar (which I used on the guitar in my avatar). It's a hybrid alkyd varnish, meaning that it's got a linseed oil "backbone" but it's made into an emulsion so it can become a waterborne product. I like it for darker finishes especially mahogany or cherry furniture, but for everything else I use EM6000 (which used to be called Ultima Spray Laquer, USL, or PSL). The EM2000cures to a discernable amber cast (and it actually takes a few weeks to develop the color after the piece has already hardened, so it's a little hard to predict from test samples). The EM6000 has a slight straw color like some solvent borne products (nitrocellulose for example). For an absolutely clear topcoat (for instance to keep blonde or natural wood at its brightest) I use 9000SC.
     
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