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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Feb 24, 2011.
A bit spinning at 3000RPM puts the fear of god into me.
Why? 3000 RPM is not very fast even for misalligned sanders and cutters.
Why? Because its faster than my reflexes when it leaves the chuck...
LOL... please don't put your reflexes to the test with sharp flying objects (-;
Actually, most router and drill kickbacks happen in lower speeds... so it's safe to say that the higher the speed and the sharper the bit the higher the survival chances are.
Well I won't test your theory by catching bullets with my teeth... I'll take your word for it - thats good enough for me. ;-)
LOL, alright. It's on my middle finger. They don't show up very well on film, but it's three cuts that start from the middle of my finger and wrap around the inside. It's really my fault because I was feeding a blank in, holding it from the end instead of the side. Somehow the piece got pulled through. I was holding it and before I knew it, my finger got chewed up. I'm really surprised it didn't mess it up worse than it did. Of course I have to admit it was fun giving people the bird when I would show them my finger!
Hi Preeb, is that a normal drill press that you are using. The only drill presses I found have a max speed of 3000 rpm for me it's way to slow (esp with the wagner save t planer) is yours faster?
Mine had 3000 rpm max when new but I added a pully. I couldn't find any "deep throught" drill press with 5000 rpm either.
I was just kidding MRJ.
Never meant you to get... well... pornographic about this (-;
Ha! I couldn't resist, consider it a lesson to always pay attention to what you're doing. By the way how's the new shop coming along?
Here's that new General machine that runs at 5000PM, Gil.
Thanks for that link. I've seen it but the "jaw" is not deep enough for my needs. I just bought the biggest one I could find at the time and modified it a little. It's a very simple modification BTW.
You know this is where I ask you if you'd be so kind as to show a pic of your improvisation. If you'd be so kind. ;-)
Sure. I'll take a photo.
Basicaly, you just unscrew the bolt that holds the pully, remove the largest one on the drill shaft bottom and replace it with a smaller one on the top.
On the engine shaft I removed the smallest one on the bottom and added a larger pully on the top. If I had a longer bolt I would have kept the original pullys but I hardly ever use the 400 RPM... actually... I never used it.
Construction starts in about a month and will take 2-3 months to complete.
Looking at the body I'm having second thoughts regarding the truss rod nut access channel... It disturbs the clean look and since there's no pickguard to cover it I decided to make it disappear. I've been doing a lot of vintage "undetectable" repairs in the past so this job calls for that practice again (-;
Here's how it's done.
I use the maple scrap from same top and cut a small slice from the center.
I glue it to an Okoume scrap from the body.
It is slightly tapered to fit very tightly by tapping it in with a little hammer
No glue should be used since the glue line might be visible!
I roughly trim it and leave just a little to be sanded later.
I mix fine maple dust with acetone and lacquer and apply around the joint areas on all 3 sides of the maple and repeat with Okoume dust mix for the body joints. Acetone will drive this filler deeper and evaporate faster.
once sanded flush with 150 grit the joint is invisible.
neck pocket is tested for tight fit with the neck and it's done.
Now... I can see someone down the road wondering how that neck PU wire access drill was done... LOL
It's all blury. Hit the macro button.
Sorry, can't really find that button on my cell phone.
But if it was too sharp... you could see the joint lines and I'm busted...
I can't see the joint lines at all - that's fantastic work.
It just seems sad to do such beatuiful, fine, detailed, skilled work and then take photos of it with a crappy phone.
2c. Your guitars deserve better .