Thinline Tele build

Telenator

Doctor of Teleocity
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2005
Posts
14,614
Location
Vermont
Sorry for OT

Speaking of CuNiFe,
Recently I got me this chunk

kuniferr.jpg


(shoe is just for size reference :lol: )

Im planing to cut it to dimension(bars&rods) anytime soon.
I have a question.Has anyone worked with CuNiFe,does it have to go thru some kind of thermal conditioning in order to be magnetic or is it out of the box material,cut it & magnetize it?

When CuNiFe is manufactured for it's magnetic properties, one of the final stages in production is annealing under extreme magnetic force to orient the material for it's magnetic poles.

While you do have a ring of CuNiFe there, it was manufactured as a mechanical seal to be used in a corrosive environment and has not been magnetically oriented.

Before you spend too much time or money cutting pieces from that ring, you might want to find someone who can take the pieces and re-anneal them under magnetic force to orient the material as a magnet. Right now, it's not. There is no telling which way the magnetic field will form, if at all, when random pieces are cut from the ring.

There are few offerings in Wide Range Humbuckers these days but, Telenator is the only company in the world offering a true CuNiFe reproduction of the original.

Oh, and preeb, that finger board looks fantastic! Beautiful grain!
 

CapnCrunch

Friend of Leo's
Joined
Jan 7, 2011
Posts
4,258
Location
Washington, USA
Truss rod will be of the classic late 50's design with a 5/32" mild steel rod and 8-32 threads.
I start with the nut access drill



I'll be using Brazilian RW leftover from the board for the filler strip

03032011111220.jpg

Hi Gil,

I am assuming from the radius on the filler that your truss rod groove is not flat bottomed. I was wondering how you accomplish this. I am new to guitar building and I am wanting to build a Korina neck very similar to the neck you have built here. I don't know how to route the raduised groove for the truss rod however.

Thanks for any help or photo's, and cheers on a very cool and informative build.
 

preeb

Poster Extraordinaire
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Posts
6,771
Age
56
Location
Sonoran Desert
Assuming the CuNiFe guitar PU shares design properties with the CuNiFe Bass PU I found one in my "junk pu box" and took it apart.

100_3334.jpg


Just looking at the bottom I already got a good idea where the brightness is coming from... look at those massive bolts that hold the pu bobbins... they look like Ex Russian military T-52 tank parts...

100_3335.jpg


Cover is thin chrome plated Nickel Silver punched sheet

100_3338.jpg


I scored me a double white... LOL

100_3339.jpg


Those bolts appear to me like steel and run through the entire bobbin height.

100_3340.jpg


They came out very easily. all bobbin holes are the same dia and thread.

100_3341.jpg


Under the hood... a rough sand cast Alnico magnet (probably Alnico 5 - very strong)

100_3343.jpg


some markings on the side

100_3346.jpg


The other poles look identical to the bolts... they have cutting marks as if the bolt heads were cut off on a lathe. Outer diameter is ~5.6mm or ~0.22" and the slot drive also appear to be cut over an existing bolt.

100_3347.jpg


Standard series humbucking hook up

100_3349.jpg


Magnet wire insulation is clear poly and the core is thin. Thinner than AWG42 anyway... I'll have to cut a piece and use a micrometer to get the actual size of the wire and coating.

100_3350.jpg


spacers on both sides are clear Lucite

100_3351.jpg


and the magnet is rather short

100_3352.jpg


Bobbins measure 12.55K and 13.45K so the total pu DCR is 26K !!!!

100_3354.jpg



Once again, I'm not sure the guitar pu version is identical in design but if it is, it would be very easy to duplicate the tonality without manufacturing the exact bobbins, base and cover. Poly coated wires are available in almost any spec and the bolts and poles (I believe they are the same part...) can be analyzed for around $400 and probably ordered as bolts.
If anyone can post the construction of the guitar CuNiFe pu it would be nice... I couldn't find any here today but I'll look in the other boxes in storage... I'm almost sure I remember seeing a somewhere.
 

bo 402

TDPRI Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Posts
61
Location
Maryland
Gil, pretty sure the guitar WRHB has no bar magnet whatsoever. The pole pieces are threaded CuNiFe magnets and their polarity is critical when you reassemble...

Those translucent white bobbins and yellow tape look very similar to the ones in the guitar WRHB.
 

Telenator

Doctor of Teleocity
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2005
Posts
14,614
Location
Vermont
The bar magnet in your bass pickup strongly indicates that the threaded pole screws are made of steel. In light of that, I seriously doubt the bar magnet is CuNiFe.

Here's a photo of the parts from a vintage Fender WRHB and a Telenator re-pro both using CuNiFe magnets.

I was able to find a small stash of CuNiFe rod last year. Enough to make about 30 pickups.

We DO NOT manufacture the chrome covers, but all of the other parts are ours.

WRHBsidebysidelo-res.jpg


LimitedEditionCuNiFeBottom600x800.jpg
 

preeb

Poster Extraordinaire
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Posts
6,771
Age
56
Location
Sonoran Desert
The bar magnet in your bass pickup strongly indicates that the threaded pole screws are made of steel. In light of that, I seriously doubt the bar magnet is CuNiFe.

Here's a photo of the parts from a vintage Fender WRHB and a Telenator re-pro both using CuNiFe magnets.

I was able to find a small stash of CuNiFe rod last year. Enough to make about 30 pickups.

We DO NOT manufacture the chrome covers, but all of the other parts are ours.

QUOTE]

Indeed... a totally different animal altogether...
What are the specs on the original magnet wire? Is it poly coated as well?
 

Telenator

Doctor of Teleocity
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2005
Posts
14,614
Location
Vermont
The original wire is 42 AWG and both poly and enamel were used although we feel the enamel sounds the best.
 

preeb

Poster Extraordinaire
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Posts
6,771
Age
56
Location
Sonoran Desert
The original wire is 42 AWG and both poly and enamel were used although we feel the enamel sounds the best.

Good to know. I was wrong to think it was a thinner wire on the bass pu... probably the same AWG42. The DCR also matches the bobbin size with AWG42. I wonder if Lover designed that bass pu as well... this is not like him to have so much steel in the core and way too much steel on the bolt heads outside the coil.
Anyway, it's great to see guys like you doing your thing. I now know where to get them (-;
Maybe I'll do a proto thinline with your pu's? Do you have covers without the Fender logo as well?
 

missinglinkwray

Tele-Meister
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Posts
283
Age
38
Location
Baja Arizona
AAAAW $#####! Now you got Gil going on the wide range humbuckers. IT IS ON.

I spent the late hours last night reading the 10-page WRHB thread in just pickups, and listening to tab benoit, and now this! Awesome.

This place is crazy cool.
 

Telenator

Doctor of Teleocity
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2005
Posts
14,614
Location
Vermont
LOL! How do you think I got involved ina ll of this? I joined this forum and went nuts!

preeb, I agree about the excess of ferrous metal in a pickup. The re-issue WRHBs would sound better if those threaded steel pole pieces weren't so dang big!
 

preeb

Poster Extraordinaire
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Posts
6,771
Age
56
Location
Sonoran Desert
String ferrules steped drill

06032011113050.jpg


Clay side dots (no marking dots on the face for this model)

06032011103728.jpg


Sanded flush

06032011123705.jpg


Sideways fretwork installation

06032011124125.jpg


06032011124155.jpg


06032011124258.jpg


Perfectly relaxed neck...

06032011130227.jpg


Trimming

06032011130419.jpg


06032011130514.jpg


Almost done... I had to leave early today to meet with the constructor who's going to set up the new shop... YEAH!!!

06032011130534.jpg
 

preeb

Poster Extraordinaire
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Posts
6,771
Age
56
Location
Sonoran Desert
Gil do you loosen the TR after radiusing the board or after the frets are installed?

No. I let it slowly compress the wood. a 1/3 turn is about the right amount of natural wood compression so after a day or two the nut is loose again.
It's not mandatory of course, but it saves a little time on final set up as I won't need to repeat the TR adjustment twice.
 

jonal335

Tele-Holic
Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Posts
658
Location
vancouver island bc
That fretboard belongs up at the top of the great fretboard list! This is the first time I've seen you use non-vintage style tuners, is there a tone change?
 

ajitaw

TDPRI Member
Joined
Feb 23, 2007
Posts
66
Location
Hangtown
Perfect! This page just answered a few questions that had been tumbling around in my head for a while, however I still have one... What would be a good "filler" to use for the clay dots and side markers? Is there anything I can get over here in the US that's similar to what was used?
 

preeb

Poster Extraordinaire
Vendor Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2008
Posts
6,771
Age
56
Location
Sonoran Desert
Fret ends are rounded along with the fingerboard

08032011081904.jpg


Note how the fret slots are in the exact depth of the fret tangs.

08032011082507.jpg


Back is rounded a little for a comfy soft V shape and brought to its final thickness (0.88" @ 1st fret). Transitions are cut and smoothed as well

08032011102638.jpg


08032011111001.jpg
 

telemcCaster

Tele-Holic
Joined
Jun 5, 2010
Posts
637
Age
63
Location
Michigan
Excellent Gil,

Please make a holding jig for shaping your necks.

I have some of that BR too. It is in reserve for Classical guitars though.
 

Attachments

  • brsides.jpg
    brsides.jpg
    41.5 KB · Views: 206




Top