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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by preeb, Feb 24, 2011.
We were talking about the blond finish... weren't we?
OK OK... I can sense things kind of derailed... and I admit the question was tricky (-;
The whole thing started with Fender's 50's blond finish schedule and materials.
The early examples between mid 1951 to ~mid 1952 were done with Harpers #L-804 blond stain (oil based!!!) mixed with Nitro primer (60:40).
The primer was added in order to solve the material incompatibility with Nitro (Oil and Nitro do not bond well to each other as can be seen on the earlier ones from 1950-1951 where the finish is basically falling apart since there was no bonding agent in the mix...).
Later on, the blond changed to Nitro based color.
If you'll look closely in the photos you'll be able to see the unique creme/pinkish hue on the sides of the 51 body where the light is reflecting.
This hue is coming from the oil based blond stain. The 52 has the standard blond white hue.
It's interesting that this effect is only seen after the Nitro sanding sealer is applied over the oil based blond. Almost like the light is "breaking" in a different way than on regular Nitro finish.
Anyway... enough mumbling... I'm getting a little carried away here with the small details (-;
Sorry for missing your post earlier... You nailed it of course.
You won a one way time machine ticket to the 1950 Fender Fullerton Factory (lots of nice girls over there too).
Regarding Georges remarks... well.. this is not the first time he contradicts with Leo's, but I know for a fact that it *IS* the original finish schedule from examining quite a few 50's BG's and P's. Try to do it any differently and it will not look correct (-;
Anyway.. go argue with that (that's Leos hand writing in there...):
I'll fight the urge to sing Back In Time! Thanks for clearing that up.
OK, I'm confused. Maybe I wasn't clear in what I was trying to say, but what I meant was that the white was closer to the wood. If you're spraying the white and then the sealer, wouldn't that be true? What am I missing?
(I'm not trying to say, "See, I was right!" I'm trying to understand where I was wrong.)
Happy Birthday Gil!
That year went quick... Happy Birthday Gil - are you off for another curry?
Happy Birthday, Gil!
On both bodies the blond layer is applied after the primer and before the Sanding sealer... so... same location relative to the wood (-;
The difference is with the blond layer material being oil based on the 51 and lacquer on the 52.
Yes it did... time flies... need to build as many guitars as I can before I'm off to a better place (-;
No curry this year but a juicy pile of Lamb Khabab will do it for me this evening (need to wash my hands twice... lamb fat is a big time finish contaminator and don't ask me how I know this (-; ).
Hey, Happy Birthday Gil. I'm very glad to have had the pleasure of dealing with you over the last couple of days and I look forward to sending you some of my hard earned cash ASAP.
Have a great day!
Happy Birthday Gil! =)
Thank you RyanThePirate!
Thank you OuttaspaceMan!
Another wish for a Happy Birthday and healthy future. Thanks for the great thread.
Happy B Day!!!
Have a nice day with your family and loved ones
Thanks guys (-;
Back to the topic... time to start the body color coats. This model is a complicated one since I aim for a warm antique look for the top, sides and back... but first thing's first...
I want to emphasize the top flame but I really don't like using the dye + sand back method since it looks too flat and the flames are kind of "locked" and don't change much from different angles (less 3D). So.. here's how I do it.
I first make sure the top is perfectly flat and free of contaminators so I clean it with naphtha and follow with a wet cloth.
when dry, I sand it smooth to get rid of the raised grain fibers
Bindings and sides are masked
Now here's the trick...
First I make ambered waxed shellac with dark flakes and denatured alcohol and then I mix in a little linseed oil (about 15%). The idea is simple, the oils penetrate the maple a little and create a stunning deep 3D look while the shellac adds an antique ambered look and acts as a binding layer between the oily wood and the soon followed top lacquer colors and clear.
The mix is sprayed
I let it dry and do a second coat of shellac alone (binder)
Note how the flames look by now... they also move like crazy but I cant photograph that (-;
Next is a mahogany burst Nitro color coat
I apply it very thin to keep the top's transparency
Sides masking tape is removed. It's very obvious that the back and sides needs "something" at this point (-;
I mask the binding and apply the same Mahogany brown to the sides and back but not evenly... I do a very dark pass at the wastes and around the backs perimeter to get an antique look and do a very thin darker burst halo on the very edges of the top.
great match between the top, sides and binding (-;
Entire body is sealed with a lacquer coat to lock the colors and melt everything in.
I leave it to dry for 24 hours
in a very good company...
Oh my gosh Gil that looks so good. That is exactly the color I want for a tele I have at home, believe me im taking notes!