Thinking About Compensated Saddles? My Journey w/ Wilkinson —> Gotoh —> Rutters

SampsonRustic

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Recently acquired a 2017 AV52 in excellent condition. It’s one of the few guitars I’ve felt needed nothing… almost.

Decided to replace the saddles to compensated ones. Originally the goal was to improve intonation, but I soon realized the additional benefits were to also improve the string spacing (to be more even) and to reduce string slippage…

Now the important aspect of this guitar in relation to the saddles is that it’s a 7.25 radius, which means the 2 outer saddles end up being very slanted to be setup the way I like it. Keep this in mind…

So first I went with the Wilkinsons. $12, what’s the harm?

I quickly realized that due to the relatively extreme slant of the outer saddles, the B and high E kept slipping off. They were totally adequate otherwise, and if I had a flatter radius I probably wouldn’t hesitate to use them. I thought about trying to make my own slots but it kind of seemed counterintuitive after buying saddles specifically to be correctly distanced from the bridge!

I forgot to take a picture of the wilkinsons but I’ve attached a stock photo so you can see the issue.

2CF81BEF-3225-4A29-85CB-D875A6EDF702.jpeg


So I sent those back and decided to try the Gotoh’s - surely these $27 saddles would do the trick right?

They certainly look the part, and they have nice slots to keep the strings in place. So what was the problem?

The Gotohs are fully tubular/cylindrical. This means they do not have a flat bottom. This resulted in 2 issues.

For one, per my specific guitar, I could not get the outer strings (high and low E) low enough to give me the desired action height that I wanted, as the bottom of the saddle edge would hit the guitar body before I could lower it enough.

Secondly, the bottom, inner edges of the outer saddles, due to the “extreme” radius angle, was protruding into the sides of the middle saddle. This caused them to stick out slightly too far, giving me an uneven string spacing and pushing my e strings just ever so slightly closer to the edge of the fretboard. This resulted in more slippage of the high e.

I don’t have photos of these mounted on the guitar, but I do have some comparison shots with the Rutters to show the difference. The string spacing was very clearly off with the Gotohs, further apart for strings across 2 saddles.

14A660FC-8D82-41C1-8E7D-2784CD1A42AC.jpeg

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So finally, realizing I was still on the return window for the Gotohs, I decided to order the Rutters for $50-odd dollars.

They came quickly, are clearly handmade with care, and get all the important details right.

I did end up using the bridge screws from my AV52 saddles to keep the flat head theme going, and as the threading was the same (details, people!) but otherwise they solved all the issues I listed above. String spacing looks dead on, and the height set easily, which I believe is due to the flat bottom.

I haven’t fully intonated yet but will update tomorrow after I have some more time to dial them in. Based on the experience so far I’m sure they’ll be great.

Here are some shots comparing the Rutters to the original AV52 saddles.

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So hopefully this helps someone thinking about going down the compensates saddle route.
 

RomanS

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Good insights.

Since neither the originals nor the Rutters are companesated the difference between the two then is the Rutters has a flat bottom & string groove?

Eric

Look again - clearly, the Rutters ARE compensated (the same way the Gotohs are, with the breaking point in the slot being further up front/to the back).
 

bobio

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Good insights.

Since neither the originals nor the Rutters are companesated the difference between the two then is the Rutters has a flat bottom & string groove?

Eric
The Gotoh and the Rutters are compensated. The grooves are in different places to change the takeoff point.

Rutters Staight Compensated Saddles
B21BBAF0-E6B3-49DD-B30B-905C4C5A2EB6.jpeg 84C1A4CC-B454-416C-9D44-F42979182C64.jpeg

I have Rutters straight compensated saddles on most of my Teles.
I have recently been playing with the Gotoh saddles on my Classic Vibes.
Both are great options, but I like supporting makers like Marc Rutters 👍
The Gotoh kind of have a made on a machine look, while the Rutters look hand made.
Both the Rutters and the Gotoh are very easy to intonate.
The Rutters are labeled and have always given me perfect intonation.
The Gotoh saddles are not labeled, you may have to swap them around to get intonated.

GOTOH In Tune Saddles
20210828_175938171_iOS.jpg 20221206_133945158_iOS.jpg
 
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arlum

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The Rutters do look good but I've never experienced the problem you described with my own set of Wilkinsons. They've worked nicely for me.
 

ChicknPickn

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Nice writeup. The Gotohs don't touch the plate on my Teles, but I can see how that might happen with a neck pocket ever so slightly too deep.
 

Peegoo

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The Wilkinsons are superb for the price.

If you experience problems with the E strings slipping off, the simple fix is to use a nut file or a small triangle file to cut a shallow string groove in the back of the saddle where the string bends downward toward the bridge plate.

This keeps the strings in place and you still have that nice breakover point at the top of the saddle, rather than a curved barrel.
 

SampsonRustic

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The Wilkinsons are superb for the price.

If you experience problems with the E strings slipping off, the simple fix is to use a nut file or a small triangle file to cut a shallow string groove in the back of the saddle where the string bends downward toward the bridge plate.

This keeps the strings in place and you still have that nice breakover point at the top of the saddle, rather than a curved barrel.
That’s a good idea I didn’t think of cutting grooves behind, I can see how that would work.
 

Peegoo

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That’s a good idea I didn’t think of cutting grooves behind, I can see how that would work.

That trick works with any smooth saddles even when they're not slanted, because some fingerpickers and even some hard strummers can pull or push she strings hard and slide them on the saddles, making the guitar go out of tune.
 
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eallen

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Look again - clearly, the Rutters ARE compensated (the same way the Gotohs are, with the breaking point in the slot being further up front/to the back).
My bifocals don't allow me to look that close and see anything but fuzz. Gonna have to start wearing my setup magnifiers on the forum!😂

I generally just file my own angled slots to alleviate string movement & improve intonation. I do lean towards installing moderns unless traditional is requested though as well though.
 
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old_picker

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I've used Gotoh compensated saddles on many guitars and never an issue with a single set.Intonation is always just fine. If I import a set of Rutters saddles I'm up for more than double the cost of the Gotohs
 

Wallaby

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I've been happy with Rutters saddles, and also with Wilkinsons.

I think the Rutters are a little more stealth/vintage if that's important - the strings mostly hide the grooves. Functionally they both work as intended.

IIRC Rutters has a good variety of materials and diameters available, and sound tests. Also good to deal with, friendly and understanding and helpful.

The diameter can matter, depending on the neck angle. Or if it needs to be vintage-correct.
 

Alex_C

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Good info. I have a Wilkinson's on my Tele-partscaster. The neck is a 12" radius, they work great on it.
I noticed that your bridge pickup looks really close to your low 'E', do you experience magnetic pull?
 
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Sea Devil

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I have many sets of compensated saddles, and I've modified almost all of them. I have the Rutters straight compensated in steel (to prevent wear from Bigsby abuse) and like them a lot. I tweaked them slightly for my preferred strings, but they're usually good to go out of the box. And now they come with a decal!
 

yegbert

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On a guitar with a challenge like that, another option might be to use smaller diameter saddles, like Philadelphia Luthiers. And given their 6-32 height screws, you can replace them easily with Fender slot head ones for aesthetics if desired.
6B229854-5410-4D05-A1AE-2C64259E3919.jpeg
 

Happy Enchilada

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Here ya go:
1670633868263.png

Stop (literally) screwing around with the old timey saddles and set your intonation up properly with GraphTech string savers.
$48 every day @ Amazon
 

Jackadder

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Have either Gotohs or Rutters on my (all 7.25) teles - on one, a similar problem with Gotoh E/A saddle not going low enough solved by filing the E side flat underneath.
 

Elwood Telly

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Hi, I have brass saddles in all four Telly bridges. I think Joe Barden's bridge (saddles looks pretty similar to Rutters), as a whole, is the best. Gotoh "In-tune" works too. Wudtone tremolo-bridge has brass saddles as well, I don't know origin of the saddles, though. Rest of it is British cold-rolled steel (Welsh). For my latest Squier CV '72 Custom I replaced saddles from pretty old Wilkinson. Well, it's always some kind of compromise with intonation

Those threaded steel saddles, I used to have these in Fender '62 Custom RI (MIJ, 1986) - it's been gone for ages... I really miss it, though. Maybe it's time to give those a try once again - maybe on my alder/double bound DIY-60's style with 80's Tokai re-fretted neck. Too bad - that's the one havin' Joe Barden on it... maybe I will re-consider replacing saddles for Squier CV once again.
 

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