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Thicker Bridge Saddle

Discussion in 'Acoustic Heaven' started by Jammin'John, Jan 6, 2017.

  1. Jammin'John

    Jammin'John Friend of Leo's

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    I have a Seagull Mariner and the saddle is 1/8" thick which seems to be a common thickness.
    The slot it goes into is wider than that.
    When I string it up the saddle moves forward at an angle. Cocked.
    It is not square and sitting like it should.
    Upon looking around I find that all the finished & compensated ones are 1/8" or less.
    I don't know how to make one from scratch.
    Do I need to have one made ?
    It's a Seagull Maritime SWS SG QI SF
    The saddle is a Graph Tech. It measures 2 7/8"L x 5/16"H x 1/8" thick
    The thickest Graph Tech is #9280 witch is too thin and way too tall.
    Thanks for looking.

    JJ
     
  2. randomhitz

    randomhitz Tele-Meister

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    Google Bob Colosi and have him make you a custom one. It's only a few bucks more
     
    clintj likes this.
  3. slinger

    slinger Friend of Leo's

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    I have used a very thin (metal) shim beside the saddle and push it back in..tuna fish can lid works
     
  4. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    While 1/8" is a common thickness, guitars often are routed for saddles that are 1/32 over or under that dimension. You need a saddle that fits properly so it does not lean (which you knew already) and so that it works well with an under-saddle transducer (most require a slip-fit meaning that it wont' quite fall out on its own but it's not tight).

    IMHO getting a pre-made saddle to fit properly doesn't really save any work compared to making one from scratch out of an oversized blank. All you need is a flat reference surface (scrap of granite or countertop composite), sandpaper, and some files. To be fast and lazy I temporarily crazy-glue the blank to a scrap of wood and cut the arc on a bandsaw or scrollsaw and clean it up with a stationary sander, but you can do it entirely with sandpaper on a piece of granite.

    Anyway if you are buying a pre-made saddle you should double check the fretboard radius as well. Even then you'll need to adjust the height to get the action where you want it and that's done with - you guessed it - sandpaper on a piece of granite.
     
  5. Jammin'John

    Jammin'John Friend of Leo's

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    Thanks boys. I'll try shimming it.
    We'll see what happens.

    JJ
     
    Doug 54 likes this.
  6. Stubee

    Stubee Doctor of Teleocity Gold Supporter

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    A saddle that leans to much can crack a bridge. I speak from experience: I let a repair shop put in a thin one because that's all they had in stock that day.
     
  7. Jammin'John

    Jammin'John Friend of Leo's

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    Unfortunately it looks like my bridge is cracked. Bummer.

    JJ
     
  8. Stubee

    Stubee Doctor of Teleocity Gold Supporter

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    Don't be too bummed if it's a narrow crack. They can often be just glued up & remain tight once the 'push' stress of a leaning saddle is removed.
     
  9. Jammin'John

    Jammin'John Friend of Leo's

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    We'll see. I don't favor acoustics. It may just sit in the case for a while.

    JJ
     
  10. Stubee

    Stubee Doctor of Teleocity Gold Supporter

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    Just slack the strings off then.
     
  11. Charlie Bernstein

    Charlie Bernstein Poster Extraordinaire

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    Teles are The Grail, but acoustics are The Source. Like Steve Earle says, if you can't play it solo on a six-string flattop, it ain't a song.
     
  12. Jammin'John

    Jammin'John Friend of Leo's

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    I'll play it on Steve's acoustic !

    JJ
     
  13. Dismalhead

    Dismalhead Poster Extraordinaire

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    Seagull Mariners are nice enough guitars I'd take it to a luthier and have them do it right. Should only run +/- $50 or so I'd guess to fix the bridge and make a new saddle.
     
  14. Jammin'John

    Jammin'John Friend of Leo's

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    I thought more like $100.

    JJ
     
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