Theres no such thing as a stupid question

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Chordophonic, Oct 21, 2013.

1. ChordophonicTele-Meister

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Hey if ya don't know the you gotta ask!

So, Iv'e seen posts on here where folk have bought timber described as 8/4, its probably a convention used on that side of the pond, but what does 8/4 mean?

Cheers!

Paul

2. Glen SmithRIP

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8/4 means 8 quarter inches thick or 2 inches.

3. BartSFriend of Leo's

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What are you guys using to print out the tele body and neck templates? When building a neck or body. My printer only handles 11x9

How are you guys making sure the nut is in the right place on the neck? I know you can move the bridge forward and backward and adjust the intonation. I also know you can place the neck in the pocket to adjust the distance at first but is there a good way to approximate where the thing should go?

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8/4=2" Thick, 6/4=1.5" thick, 5/4=1 -1/4 thick, 4/4=1" thick. Lumber is sold that way to determine board foot measurements. One BF= 144 cubic inches of wood.

So a 2 x 6 x 12 inch, 3 x 4 x 12", and 1 x 12 x 12" pieces of lumber are 144 cubic inches and are equal to 1 BF.

You can buy 8/4 rough lumber S2S ( surfaced 2 sides) 1-3/4. That means you are being charged for the wood coming off as chips in the planer if you buy it surfaced...

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Use a fret calculator like the one at stewmac to determine fret spacing. I always mount the bridge with the saddles 90 percent forward. That way there is plenty of space to adjust them backwards for intonation.

Get your drawing printed out at an office supply store.

http://www.stewmac.com/fretcalculator?gclid=CNrJ7LPLqLoCFe5cMgodogYAvQ

6. clsattTele-Afflicted

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All measurements for fret spacing and bridge location are referencing the nut as zero. So it's always at the end of the fingerboard. If for some reason the first fret plays sharp or flat compared to open (as do all the other frets except for 12, as that's what you used to intonate the bridge) likely something shifted when you were cutting your fret slots and the nut may need to be adjusted. It would require removing material from in front of or behind the nut, shifting it in the slot and filling in the extra space. I hope that you never have to mess with something like this as it sounds like it would be a PITA.

7. BronkowitzTele-Meister

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A print store like Kinko's (or whatever it's called now) can print a D size drawing for you. Alternatively, if you overlay a grid on your drawing you can print them out yourself and then overlap the papers.

8. bob1234Tele-Afflicted

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Just to be clear, 8/4 refers to unfinished wood. 8/4 wood you buy from a lumber store finished up already will NOT be 2" wide, it will be 1.75" inches.

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You can buy 4/4" thick wood that has been surfaced and they will charge you for 5/4" thick. Most S2S lumber that is 3/4 thick is charged as 1" or 4/4"

You pay for the original rough sawn dimension regardless of what you end up after they plane it down.

You ask for lumber 1/2" thick and they charge you for 1" thick lumber.

10. CapnCrunchFriend of Leo's

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It will actually be 1 and 13/16" thick, which just happens to be the nominal thickness of Teles and Strats.

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Not all the time....depends on who the vendor is.... My guy down the road planes right to 1 - 3/4"

Might be the vernacular for your area, but around here....unfinished wood means there is no coating on it... Lumber is either rough or surfaced...sometimes called " dressed".

12. ChrittyTele-Afflicted

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That is so much more complicated than what I'm used to at my local hardware store!

13. CapnCrunchFriend of Leo's

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At every commercial vendor I have used S2S 8/4 stock is 1 13/16". Not trying to start an argument over 1/16". More amazed by the frugality and manufacturing efficiency genius of Leo Fender in the 50's. They used, and continue to use, commercially available stock in a thickness that requires no additional thicknessing thus eliminating one step in the manufacturing process. I think that is pretty cool.

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The people that buy a pine board from a home center usually don't have to worry about it either since they only have surfaced dimensional lumber in most cases.

15. CapnCrunchFriend of Leo's

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In truth, wood is not typically sold to consumers in this fashion in the States, once it hits the retail level. If your average consumer goes to the hardware store, or Home Depot, wood will usually be sold by the piece, or sometimes by the lineal foot.

Mills and wholesalers sell it by the board foot to other wholesalers or retailers but most do not deal directly with the public.

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Anybody who is an amateur or professional woodworker that uses anything other than the dimensioned timbers found in a home center.... can expect to buy it by the BF...at least here on the East Coast. My experience is that it is a real drag to buy it milled to 1-3/4 because it usually warps and in order to get it planed out flat...it needs at least another 1/16 planed off. I often ask to have it planed to 1- 7/8 for that reason and plane the rest off myself.

It would be interesting to hear about other localities...and how it is done there because I thought it was the norm.... it was like this in Texas when I lived there....

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18. ajr969Tele-Meister

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Most plans are usually .PDF files, so I print mine on a regular laser printer using the built-in tiled (or poster) mode with enough overlap to get the centerline of the drawing on one edge of each piece (Its in the advanced print options of acrobat). It comes out to four pages for most bodies. Then I draw a centerline on a large piece of cardboard or poster board, and assemble all four pages, keeping the centerlines of each page aligned with the centerline I drew on the backing board, and tape them together. It takes a bit of care to get the alignment just right, but I can do it at home for free.

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