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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by thecableguy, Jul 20, 2013.
Very true. If it were just laying around I'd probably do the same thing.
Made a template and routed the back cover recess to 1/8".
Cut a piece of scrap rosewood.
Thinned it to 1/8" on the router sled.
Shaved off the last bit on the router table.
Back cover matches the fretboard.
Made a puller and yanked out the inserts.
Marked and drilled for the pots and switch.
Drilled the holes to final size. This new old drill press is AWESOME.
Started final sanding the body and had to fill a couple spots. While it was drying I put some lemon oil on the control cover. It really brings the santos rosewood to life.
That body looks really good, and I like the plywood flying V concept .
Ah yes, the Flying V. That's a Jackson Flying V clock I built in grade 9 shop class, in the midst of my headbanger phase. It's actually solid wood - oak I think. I'm going to get some new hands and numbers for it and hang it on the garage wall.
Solid wood - In that case I think you should fret it and string it up.
Final sanded the body to 220. Filled and sanded a couple spots, then sealed the wood with some spray can shellac. (didn't take pics)
Did a few color coats. Duplicolor Naples Gold - a Honda color.
I can still see a bit of the grain. I didn't really use grain filler because birch is supposed to be a closed grain wood, no?
I still have to apply a few more color coats so maybe it'll fill in a bit. Will the EM6000 level it out a bit?
A little maybe, but not much. It will take a few more coats and some intermediate sanding. But it can be done.
Will EM6000 go over Duplicolor? That sounds like a mismatch to me but without checking I don't know. My experience with EM6000 is that it levels nicely and has good burn in on every coat. Nice color choice Brian.
Do you know if it's possible to do intermediate sanding on the color coats as well? It's got a really small size sparkle in it.
I think I read on a few threads that some people had used it over duplicolor. Maybe I'll spray some color on scrap and try it there first. Being water based, would it interact with cured acrylic lacquer?
Thanks Richard, I took my wife to part source and got her to pick the color. She thought it would look good with the cream binding.
Great work there, Brian. That color looks silver to me in the pics, but if it is more gold, I'm with your wife. That'll be great with cream binding.
As for filling the grain, I'm not sure how to tackle that I would almost recommend stripping it down and getting the grain filled/sealed and reshooting the color.
Both of these methods depend how good the burn in is on the clear coat you're using, but.....
You could always add a crapload of clear until you think it's filled, then sand it down flat. As you lay clear on top of it it will sink into those grain lines, but if you put enough clear on it you can level it out until it goes away, as long as you have enough clear on that you won't sand through. Either way, it'll shrink back.
Alternatively, you can lay down your clear coats( only done this with nitro, but EM6000 might work too), drop fill some lacquer into that spot, give it a few days and scrape it level with a razor blade, let it rest a few more days until you can use fine sandpaper to smooth that area, and shoot more clear over that til you reach your target thickness.
I probably wouldn't want to sand the sparkle... But you could probably scotch brite it (grey) to try to smooth it a bit
Thanks for the suggestions guys.
I've shot waterbase sealer over stain and it shows up crystal clear. If you have some of the target coatings sealer, about three coats of sealer and then level should get you there. The lacquer doesn't build as heavy as I think you'll have to go and I'd worry that you'd wind up giving yourself runs trying to get it thick enough.
Be sure to test spray the em6000 a lot... I tried shooting some plexi with it and it wouldn't stick at all. I worry a little that it could want to do the same with acrylic lacquer. It might be a good idea to lay another coat of shellac over the top of your color to give it something to stick to. Do you still have the body you started the challenge build with? It had the same prep up to this point, I think.
Thanks Chris. Target does have a high build lacquer I think. Maybe I'll check that out. I was also thinking I'd do a coat of shellac under the lacquer just to be safe.
Just checked, here's the high build version:
The color has cured for 5 days and it hasn't had any smell for 3 days. I started scraping the binding.