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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by betocool, Apr 4, 2021.
Then again, I'd trust guitarbuilder enough to go with his suggestion
Well cutting a piece of steel and drilling a few holes certainly is easier to try before rebuilding the neck and body.... Generate alternatives, try it out... make changes if necessary.
Another option would be to inlay and glue splines into the neck and body from the back but then it's a set neck ....sort of.
Just being an SG...there's a certain amount of flex in the whole design that a 16th fret joint doesn't have.
I've done some work around neck joints and how to get that to work, like Marty suggested with the steel plate: If the heel of neck rests solidly on the back side of the pocket, I think all that you would need may be a 2x6 piece of 1/8" thick aluminum. I favor Aluminum because it's easy to work, not very expensive and that thick you can bevel/dress the edges in a way that will not interfere with playing the guitar. In addition to the metal back plate, gluing the neck into the pocket would add some stability and if you used hide glue you could take the neck off easier than something like Tightbond.
Interestingly, steel is 2.5 times heavier, but is also roughly 3 times stiffer/more-elastic too. So a 1/16" steel plate would do more than a 1/8" aluminum plate, but would be a little heavier...
Another alternative might be to route in something like a 1/2 to 1/4x4x8" piece of hard maple to form the base of the neck pocket. In this build I kind had a bit of a bump out because the body was a bit thin: When playing that bump-out under the neck pocket does not impact playing in any way.
Dowel from the end of the neck into the pickup cavity? In addition to the neck screws with a plate.
I'm going to be my usual broken record and ask which bridge you are using and if you confirmed the angle/overstand for your neck. It looks to me a bit like a ToM style bridge on a fender style neck, that can be made to work but it often takes a bit of angle.
If you do have to angle the neck pocket you will be making it even weaker. In my humble opinion I would graft on a little tenon extension and route into the neck pickup cavity.
Hi all, thanks for all your ideas, lots of good advice.
On Wednesday (or was it Tuesday?) I asked my wife that she ask in the workshop at her job if they had scrap steel or aluminium roughly in the shape of a credit card. She came back with an aluminium piece about 2mm thick and a steel piece about 3-4 mm thick. So, with that at hand, I will try and shape a brace / plate for the back of the neck pocket. I might even consider using the 2mm aluminium sheet as a shim, but we'll see. That way, if that doesn't work, I still can go on with the tenon idea. Or converting the guitar to a set neck guitar as well, all good options.
About the bridge, when I routed the pocket I elevated the routing plame 4mm at the bridge position, as to what angle that is, I don't know, but it's a low angle. I have installed the studs for a ToM style bridge, but I will actually use a piece of jarrah instead mounted on the studs and filed to shape. I've done it in the past and was very happy with the results.
I hope to make some progress and little regress this weekend.
Slow start on the weekend, with Saturday lying down thanks to the Man-Flu, but fortunately Sunday and Monday I had the chance to do a few things, so let's go on with this.
Damn, fiddly work is fiddly! It takes time when you try to make things right, or, in my case, fix things and see if it will work.
I went with the 3mm (1/8" or so) aluminium plate for the neck brace. I rounded the edges a bit to get a feel for it.
I marked where the screws would go and proceeded to give it a test run. Lo and behold, it feels really solid! Yay!!! I will not be making a new body this time! But next time I should be more careful.
After the initial joy, I started routing and cleaning the PUP holes a bit more, using jigs and jigs. I need to get me a short pattern bit, because this was a bit ridiculous after a while. Every time I put the router down and put it away "for the day", 20 minutes later I had to go and pick it up again and change the bit and do something else....
And then, while routing the pickguard, important pieces broke away... fortunately close enough so that I can put them back together again.
To fix that, I used a very thin layer of material (called "paper") to hold the pieces together. "Paper", being as thin as it is, and sometimes even made out of wood, glues very well and doesn't really increase the thickness of the pick guard by much.
And so I had a first go at placing the PUPS. And they, plus the PUP fence are terribly thick!
And so, the task was to route down the PUP rings (how do you actually call these things?) down to about 2mm thickness. And, be very careful when removing them from the glue because they are extremely brittle.
I decided to give them a paper side as well, at least that would prevent them from snapping apart if they broke, but I have to be super-careful with these things. Hopefully once they are mounted they should hold well....
And so, I did a bit of adjusting, fortunately things just happen to fit on the PUP position, before screwing the PUP holders in. I still need to sand them down and clean them up more, but they seem to work nice. I have a set of dodgy strings that I use for testing this sort of things, that comes in handy for setting bridge position and things like that.
And here it is, I need to start building my bridge now and adjust the PUP height, but I can't complain! I'm happy the strings line up nicely with the PUPs and the neck! I see the picture now... yeah... some work is still required...
So much for the "English"... but at least it's "Electric"!
I like your repurpose of old advertising, this is my take on it. The Bud trio, bass, six string and cajon made from old crates. Mojotron notice my take on the Strat-lite above
Coming to the end of this build slowly... not quite yet, but we're closer to the destination than we were at the beginning....
It is time to fend off the alien attack, and hopefully prevent noise as an added bonus, by wallpapering (if that is even a word) the internal sides with alu-foil. I've never used copper tape before, basically due to cost, but I've had good results with alu-foil, it's condictive, light, and cheap. I used for this contact glue, watered down PVA didn't work. I need to get some sort of gummy-glue next time that I can apply with a brush (just like wallpaper!).
Made a quick test with the multimeter and conductivity goes from the neck PUP pocket to here.
Later I decided to start with the fret leveling. I confess, it is by far my least favourite activity, but I understand it has to be done. I bought one of those EZ-Fret files from StewMac to see how the work goes.
So I got busy filing and filing until the black on the top was gone, and then filing again until only the black on the top was left, very thin. I was listening to Allison Hagendorf's Queen interview on Spotify at the time and it turned out to be a not too bad experience after all. I'm happy with the results. All frets are now filed and clean. And I forgot to take more pics.
Yesterday I was at my friend's BBQ, so, no work (but good meat), and today I had a mental check and the last thing to do is the wiring. I don't like wiring the pots and switches inside the guitar, it's so cumbersome, so I made a little template, took it to my desk, and in all leisure I went and wired everything except the PUPs. No way to do that outside the guitar.
My original idea was to go for the dual tone/volume + switches combo, but in the end, I realised I really only use one, the other, or both. So the options I'll have are PUPS in parallel, one switch for reverse polarity of the neck PUP, the other selects Bridge, Neck or both, and master volume and tone. Pro-Tip: File off a bit on the body of the pots, the solder sticks there immediately, and you avoid having to heat it up too much, as opposed to when it's unfiled, the solder blob just rotates around and does not stick until whatever coat is there is melted. The ring is for screwing the body to the internal wallpaper shield additionally.
Last, it's time to start the oiling process! I'm using burnishing oil, which gives the wood a nice matte finish that I've come to appreciate a lot in the last year and a half, having finished a bass and an acoustic that way.
Not it's time to watch paint dry...
I too often use aluminum foil because it's cheap, I use Elmer's or whatever brand spray contact glue from a hobby shop
Aluminum foil and 3M spray adhesive works great. Just shape the foil into the cavity, pull it out, spray the back, and stick it back into place.
Do humbuckers need shielding? I didn't think so.
I don't know. I guess that they were designed to cancel out any hum, but blocking the source of the hum is a good idea anyways. Aluminum foil is cheap.
That's coming along very nicely. Well documented.
I'm not sure, but I'd rather not have to find out the hard way. This really is an easy task, compared to all else going on....
Looking nice Alberto.
With your tuning head arrangement, are you going to use guides for your strings as it looks like the middle strings might clash (although angles can be deceptive in the photos)?
Too bad you wasted your 5 cent piece washers; save them for your next build.
And we're officially finished! Well... let's call it Release Candidate #1, because there's always the odd bug or adjustment here and there for ever and ever. That's what software people call upgrades...
After the oil dried I started putting it together. Started with the top. Easy. I added a little helper bridge, not the definitive, to gauge string height and all. And they were... very high... about 4mm at the 12th fret.
So I got busy shaping the bridge until I had a good height and a more suitable shape. Just filed it and adjusted as I needed to.
And the strings made a sound! Woohoo!!! Next I went on to add the electronics, and thanks to the pre-work a week or two ago, it was relatively painless.
A test on the amp and oh my! No noise, all pots and switches working. The player... meh... but the guitar sounds real nice and full.
On the back, I added the cover with the magnets as suggested a few posts above.
Just use the pick and it comes right out.
A few more pics...
So yeah, there it is. A bit rough around the edges, but it plays real nice. Note to self for the future, angle or lift the neck a bit more with humbuckers, but I got it to the place where fortunately the strings don't touch the PUP while playing on the highest frets. Warts and all, I'm pretty happy with it.
Bloody cold though... my fingers are a bit stiff...