The Deluxe Reverb Club

Discussion in 'Amp Owners Clubs' started by xjazzy, Jun 16, 2009.

  1. cuscus

    cuscus Tele-Meister

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    No, nothing like that, it looked like the Deluxe Reverb silverface & def had the blue font, just one speaker either a 10" or a 12", I thought it was solid state & remember it being very light - with that said it would be in comparison to the amp I had directly before, which was a 60's Vox AC 30, also comparing it to the 2 x12 50 watt Marshall combo I had at the same time. Maybe it was a pucker valve Deluxe Reverb with something wrong with it, being in my early 20's & still learning my craft so to speak, I was very naive, but distinctly remember thinking it did not sound good apart from the cleans, even cranked up it did not sound good.

    Sorry for the vague memories, I did google it, but nothing came up.

    I am aware that Fender did some nutty things back in the day, just wish I had some pics, I wish I had not got rid of the Vox or the Marshall, but finances dictated the way in those days & you sold what you had to get the next best thing. The Marshall was probably one of the best sounding Marshall amps I ever had & don't get me wrong, I am a both a Fender & Marshall advocate, given the choice, I would still use both with a splitter, but my back won't take it anymore !

    I need the Fender cleans at the mo, so I am currently using a Fender Supersonic 60 which fits my needs in my current band - sweet cleans with both sounds - Vibrolux & Bassman, personally preferring the Bassman sound with additional affects.
     
  2. cuscus

    cuscus Tele-Meister

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    Yep, I am in the UK & have been around for a while in various bands, funny how we find our way back to valves - I used valve state hybrids for a while, but never got that nice warm feeling form them on the clean side, I have been in the good position of having the available finances for a while, which enabled me to purchase decent valve amps or combos - no comparison in my view whatever music you play !

    In the 80's, I was sucked into the marketing promo surrounding the "Session Amps", I tried one in a music shop at low volume & was blown away with the sounds & the MosFet circuitry etc etc, that was the worst amp I ever bought, totally unreliable & sounded crap at higher volumes - that amp went back to Session 3 times in its first year & I ended up borrowing the 50 watt Marshall I had sold on to a friend, needless to say it was sold as soon as it came back from repair ........ Even these days everything that claims to be valve sound, sounds digital to me, no replacement for the real thing .........
     
  3. Baconboy

    Baconboy TDPRI Member

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    Just joined the club.

    Any advice on maintenance tips and what not?
    Power on/off procedures?
    good tone settings?

    Thanks
     
  4. o6 oly white

    o6 oly white TDPRI Member

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    65 reissue head. Tung sol outputs in blonde and oxblood. Mojotone open back cab loaded with a WGS G12C and a G12C/S. 14650756754012033604685.jpg

    68 custom deluxe re tubed with a WGS G12C. 20151122_183933.jpg
     
  5. moosie

    moosie Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Welcome to the forum, and the DR club!

    Is yours a reissue, or vintage? If vintage, make sure to have those electrolytic caps replaced right away. It may need a bit of other TLC, too, just the once in 40+ years, and then it'll be good to go for another very long time.

    If a reissue, just play it!

    Regarding power on/off, and standby, you'll see people do different things. The main idea is that if you turn standby OFF before you turn power ON, then wait one minute before turning standby ON, you give the tubes a break. It allows the heaters to warm up before applying the real juice. But I'm not sure this makes a lot of sense in an amp with a tube rectifier, because the juice won't flow to the other tubes until the rectifier's operational, and that won't happen until the heater warms up. I still do this anyway, though. Just habit. And a good habit for amps with solid state rectification.

    When you turn it off, just do it. Leave standby in the ON position. This (mostly) drains the filter caps. DO NOT kid yourself, though. Even unplugged, deadly voltages still lurk within the chassis, so follow correct procedure if you plan to open 'er up yourself. Doing this with the standby is more like "well, if I'm so stupid I deserve to die, maybe I'll get really lucky and not. Die, that is.".

    Tone: go easy on treble, and especially bass. The higher the volume setting, the lower the bass and treble, usually. Don't be afraid to try bass on 2. Use your ears! I play at home, at fairly low levels, and find that bumping up treble and bass helps the amp fill out a bit at that level.
     
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  6. Baconboy

    Baconboy TDPRI Member

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    Thanks!

    It's a reissue indeed.

    When you say just turn it off, do you mean, turn off the power switch, and THEN turn on the standby? And then unplug the amp itself?

    Also, I didn't think of lowering the EQ knobs and raising the volume, that's interesting.
    Are you able to get any good tones at a breakup point while still playing at a bedroom level?
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2016
  7. moosie

    moosie Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    It doesn't really matter, but to turn the amp on, I first make sure standby is in the OFF position. Then I turn on the power, and one minute later, turn on the standby.
    Then, when I'm done playing, I just turn off the power, leaving the standby in the ON position. This has a better chance of draining the caps, where if you turn standby OFF, then power OFF, those caps will definitely not drain.
    But as I said, it really doesn't matter, because the high voltage is safely contained inside the chassis. Either way, make damn sure you know how to drain the caps, and work safely, before opening it up for service. Life or death.

    Natural amp breakup starts between 4-5 volume, depending if single coils or humbuckers. That's really bloody LOUD for the house. Get a good OD pedal. The Wampler Black is my favorite, because on zero gain it's my always-on, and fills out the tone of blackface type amps at low volumes, and with gain up, it's a very Fendery overdrive sound.

    That said, if you just blew all your cash on the amp, there are a TON, and then a TON MORE, good OD pedals out there. Lots of good used stuff on thegearpage.net. And on TDPRI's classifieds as well.
     
  8. Baconboy

    Baconboy TDPRI Member

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    When you say you turn standby to the ON position, does that mean no sound is coming out? As in the amp is on standby? Or did you mix those two up by chance? Because I've always heard for powering on, its power ON while standby is ON, and then wait a few seconds and turn standby OFF.

    When turning off is it power OFF, and then standby ON? will the caps drain if i do this and then unplug the amp? I'm not too familiar with the concept

    I know you said it doesn't really matter, but I wanna get used to something that's at least known to work well. :p

    and yeah it's insanely loud. I've been playing around 2 since getting it. I was thinking of getting a Boss Blues Driver. any thoughts on that?
     
  9. o6 oly white

    o6 oly white TDPRI Member

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    Very nice!
     
  10. rdwhitti

    rdwhitti Tele-Holic

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    Bought my DRRI at the start of May and I like it a lot! I had bought a PRRI Limited edition with the 12" Jensen but it died and I had to return it, then tried a Blues Deluxe but it made an intermittent static noise. Took that back and got what I should have gotten in the first place. Hope to get many long years out of this wonderful amp!
     
  11. moosie

    moosie Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    BBD should work just fine.

    You have the right idea. Semantics. Caps won't drain if the juice is stopped, so leaving the standby in the sound-coming-out position is what I meant for powering down.

    I guess I prefer to think of standby as current on vs current off, just like the other is power on vs power off. Or AC on/off and DC on/off. It's more intuitive than turning something off to play. To me.

    I can't remember the last time I read the labels on those switches. They're close to the wall (amp is about 8" away). I just reach over and flick the left one down, and the right one up, then the left one up, to play. Then the right one down, to stop playing. :D
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2016
  12. gridlock

    gridlock Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Loving my SFDR. Great tones at even bedroom volumes.
    IMG_5101.JPG photo 1(1).JPG
     
  13. Baconboy

    Baconboy TDPRI Member

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    ah, i get it. I'm still not too familiar with this stuff, but you've dumbed it down enough for me, thanks

    Stupid question:
    Is it okay to plug the tube amp into: A standard Canadian Power Outlet?
    A power bar with a surge protector? Without?

    im just nervous aha
     
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  14. GuitarJonz

    GuitarJonz Poster Extraordinaire

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    Ah yes...the grail!
     
  15. moosie

    moosie Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    No worries. Your standby wording is more correct.

    Canadian? I have no idea. Do you have the same three-prong outlets we have in the States?

    [​IMG]

    A quick google appears that all of North America is 120V 60hz AC, so you should be OK.


    A surge protector certainly can't hurt. I had a lightning strike very near my house a while back. I was playing at the time, and the crack came through the amp/speaker, even though plugged into a basic surge protector.

    Scared the crap out of me, but the amp seemed unharmed. I immediately ordered one of these to try to protect against things like that:

    http://www.amazon.com/Furman-PST-8-Aluminum-Protection-Conditioning/dp/B000YYVLAK
     
  16. alnico357

    alnico357 Tele-Afflicted

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    In 2010 I got an electric blue DRRI special edition with Celestion Alnico Blue speaker. I did the simple Fritz Mod to put reverb and tremolo in the normal channel and to put the channels in phase so they can be jumped. The efficient Blue allows more volume before distortion sets in. I gig with it unmic'ed.
     

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  17. codamedia

    codamedia Poster Extraordinaire

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    I've had a Deluxe Reverb on my short list for 20 years. BF and SF models are out of my price range when they do become available so I set my sites on a used DRRI or '68 Custom.

    About 2 weeks ago I finally got my hands on a 2010 DRRI... Brown/Wheat with a Jensen C12K. It is in very good condition (still has plastic on the "limited edition" plate) and I'm not sure if the amp has 1 hour of playing time on it. I fired it up for a practice last night and will do an aggressive/loud gig on Saturday night. The first humble steps in breaking in this amp.

    front.JPG
     
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  18. moosie

    moosie Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Very nice. But you might be surprised to find that SF DRs aren't that expensive.
     
  19. codamedia

    codamedia Poster Extraordinaire

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    Sure I would have preferred an SF... but opportunity did not allow that. In my area they cost more than a New DRRI regardless of the condition - and ones that don't require any work (fresh tubes, caps changed, etc... etc..) are at least 2K or higher. They rarely come up, and when they do the user is not open to any trades which is how I like to deal (I don't have a lot of disposable income). This one came up on trade ... which fit my budget perfectly ;)

    I see better deals south of the border, but they are not good deals after you add the exchange (roughly 30%), shipping (or travel time) and taxes/duties often imposed by Canada Customs.
     
  20. moosie

    moosie Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Ah, I missed that you're in Canada.

    Also, re-reading my quickly written post, it's obviously problematic. "Very nice, BUT".

    Sorry 'bout that. Enjoy your new amp.
     
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