the back of my CS relic neck is just a little rough...

Discussion in 'Fender Custom Shop Tele Forum' started by coyote95667, Oct 15, 2014.

  1. coyote95667

    coyote95667 TDPRI Member

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    I have a custom shop relic and down by the cowboy chord area, the back of the sanded down neck is just a little tiny bit rough... not so it will give splinters or anything lol - it isn't that bad - but enough to sort of affect the grip down there. As opposed to the middle of the neck which is baby butt smooth.

    Will this just play itself smooth in time and I should leave it alone? Or is there an approved treatment that won't devalue the guitar - meaning should I hit it with 0000 steel wool and/or put some tung oil varnish or something on it?

    I don't want to over-react and mess up the guitar, especially if this is reasonably common and it will just "wear in".
     
  2. telex76

    telex76 Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    Rub it with one of those grey 3M pads.
     
  3. rebelwoclue

    rebelwoclue Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    +1
     
  4. MrCairo46

    MrCairo46 Friend of Leo's

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    Real Cowboy would have hands rough enough to smooth it by stroking it a few passes ;-). I agree with the 3M pads although the steel wool work may take longer, it should do the job I think.
     
  5. Post Toastie

    Post Toastie Poster Extraordinaire

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    Careful with steel wool, the metal slivers will try to go to the pickup magnets. Use the 3 M pads instead.
     
  6. tweedman2001

    tweedman2001 Tele-Afflicted

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    The steel wool can also get into the wood and leave rust stains.
     
  7. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    3M Scotchbrite or any good nylon abrasive pad for woodworking (I get mine from Klingspoors) should do nicely - use the finest grade that you have available. Two Master Builders from the Custom Shop told me they do the final burnishing on the neck with a cotton t-shirt.

    It's likely that because the wood is basically un-finished, that some moisture raised the grain a little bit causing it to feel fuzzier than other parts of the wood. You should be able to just knock it back down until it feels right.

    As for steel wool, one trick is to put a magnet in the back of the chunk so that slivers will tend to stay on the pad instead of getting on the pickups. Don't worry maple is close grained enough that it won't leave anything that's going to rust. But I agree the abrasive pads are much easier to work with.
     
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