^^This^^ I'm all for vintage correctness, but the first time you have an original Telecaster jack cup fail on you at a gig, you'll be more than happy to pay the price, and drill the holes for the Electrosocket!I was just talking with a guitarist about 'em today.. that vintage cup is a joke and should have been dumped as soon as technology allowed for making the electro socket at a competitive cost...
That is only possible if you don't shim the jack. You want the end of the jack to be flush with the nut on the frontside.I've tried all kinds of stuff. The typical electro sockets with a Switchcraft 11 and a lock washer won't work with my Boss wireless WL-20 transmitter. A regular Tele jack cup is too deep to work with the WL-20 also.
Here's the caveat with the Rutters shallow cup that no one seems to mention. Part of the jack is surrounded by the section of the cup that extends into the body. This can sometimes cause the exposed tip terminal (where it's sandwiched between the insulators) to ground out on the inside of the jack cup. It's happened to me nearly every time.
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On my T types that don't have a flat jack cup area, I use these.
It depends. I discovered that there is more than one threading of ... these sorts of cups, probably Imperial vs. Metric. You might consider buying the cup & jack as a set just to be sure, or else ask enough questions to make sure the threading of the cup you get matches the jack you already have.thanks for all replys .
one more thing .can i use the origial jack plug
Duh, you are absolutely correct. That is a long shaft Switchcraft L11, not the standard short shaft Switchcraft 11.@bobio that's a Switchcraft L11, not the standard 11, but that's a good idea for anyone using that jack cup. My solution was just to paint the exposed metal around the wafers to insulate it.
I've had zero issues with my WL-20 in the years I've had it. I gig with it on an almost weekly basis.