joe.attaboy
Tele-Meister
Used one on my Esquire build. They're pretty awesome. My CV Starcaster has a nut that constantly loosens on the jack, and I'm considering using one there, too.
Telecaster Electro socket
- Thread starter fender kev
- Start date
First and only thing I had to do on my AV52 was install an Electro Socket. Yes, you can use the original jack plug. And yes you can use angled connecters.
I bought an Electrosocket for my Baja a couple years ago, thinking I’d surely need it, but haven’t installed it yet. The stock cup is holding up fine, and the right angle plug on my favorite cable fits. But should it ever start getting loose, in goes the Electro.
AJBaker
Friend of Leo's
They're a good design, but I've never seen the need on my baja. The stock socket is perfectly stable, and all my cables fit.
ponycar
Tele-Meister
JeffBlue
Friend of Leo's
I love Electro Sockets, I even used one in my Precision Guitar Kits 54 Les Paul custom.
CCK1
Tele-Afflicted
^^This^^ I'm all for vintage correctness, but the first time you have an original Telecaster jack cup fail on you at a gig, you'll be more than happy to pay the price, and drill the holes for the Electrosocket!
I've tried all kinds of stuff. The typical electro sockets with a Switchcraft 11 and a lock washer won't work with my Boss wireless WL-20 transmitter. A regular Tele jack cup is too deep to work with the WL-20 also.
Here's the caveat with the Rutters shallow cup that no one seems to mention. Part of the jack is surrounded by the section of the cup that extends into the body. This can sometimes cause the exposed tip terminal (where it's sandwiched between the insulators) to ground out on the inside of the jack cup. It's happened to me nearly every time.
On my T types that don't have a flat jack cup area, I use these.
Here's the caveat with the Rutters shallow cup that no one seems to mention. Part of the jack is surrounded by the section of the cup that extends into the body. This can sometimes cause the exposed tip terminal (where it's sandwiched between the insulators) to ground out on the inside of the jack cup. It's happened to me nearly every time.
On my T types that don't have a flat jack cup area, I use these.
That is only possible if you don't shim the jack. You want the end of the jack to be flush with the nut on the frontside.I've tried all kinds of stuff. The typical electro sockets with a Switchcraft 11 and a lock washer won't work with my Boss wireless WL-20 transmitter. A regular Tele jack cup is too deep to work with the WL-20 also.
Here's the caveat with the Rutters shallow cup that no one seems to mention. Part of the jack is surrounded by the section of the cup that extends into the body. This can sometimes cause the exposed tip terminal (where it's sandwiched between the insulators) to ground out on the inside of the jack cup. It's happened to me nearly every time.
View attachment 983313
On my T types that don't have a flat jack cup area, I use these.
I leave the two washers and the nut on the jack as shims and use another nut on the front side of the cup to secure it.
I have done it this way on dozens of Teles and I have NEVER had a problem with it.
You will want to use a Switchcraft L11 long shaft jack, shimming it as pictured will push the terminals in question beyond the barrel of the cup so that they cannot make contact with the sides.
The BOSS WL-20 ought to fit this configuration just fine. I had the system for a short time, sent it back as I kept getting the flashing red light of death. Even the replacement they sent did the same thing. I use Line 6 G30 now, couldn't be happier.
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@bobio that's a Switchcraft L11, not the standard 11, but that's a good idea for anyone using that jack cup. My solution was just to paint the exposed metal around the wafers to insulate it.
I've had zero issues with my WL-20 in the years I've had it. I gig with it on an almost weekly basis.
I've had zero issues with my WL-20 in the years I've had it. I gig with it on an almost weekly basis.
It depends. I discovered that there is more than one threading of ... these sorts of cups, probably Imperial vs. Metric. You might consider buying the cup & jack as a set just to be sure, or else ask enough questions to make sure the threading of the cup you get matches the jack you already have.
Switched out mine after the original went bad. And that didn't take long for it to go loose. I set it to take a 90* plug.
Duh, you are absolutely correct. That is a long shaft Switchcraft L11, not the standard short shaft Switchcraft 11.
All of the Switchcraft jacks in my parts bin are L11s. You would want to insulate a Switchcraft 11 as you found.
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wyclif
Tele-Afflicted
The Electrosocket jack solves the problem cheaply; you'll never have to replace it and it won't fall out.
However, the Rutters jack is nice piece of hardware and better looking if you don't like the screws and are OK with spending a little more.
However, the Rutters jack is nice piece of hardware and better looking if you don't like the screws and are OK with spending a little more.
I grab it with a pair of long nose pliers and twist. It bends pretty easy and comes straight out.
Viper
Tele-Meister
One of my Teles has one, the other doesn’t. It seem to make no difference and I wouldn’t have given it a moment’s thought if not for seeing this thread. The Electro socket is more substantial, if memory serves, but they both work fine.
Viper
Tele-Meister
StewMac makes a tool for installation and removal.
Sax-son
Friend of Leo's
It's all I ever use on all my Tele builds.
