Ah, here's something I do often. I usually put a capo on the 1st. fret and then fret the last fret (which is usually 21) on the 6th string (low E). I then take an automotive feeler gauge and slide out a 0.010" gauge feeler. I use this around the 8th fret and measure from bottom of low E (6th. string) and the top of the 8th. fret. That's my guide.
The beauty of vintage truss rods is that they're a PITA to adjust so people aren't so tempted.
surfoverb said:I see this a lot and it always boggles the mind. You take the guard off, take a paint key and turn it. done.
a lot of people think you must take the strings off, then the guard, then the neck. You dont have to do any of that. leave it tuned to pitch, take the guard off and thats it.
I have mine set at around .004-.006
when eye balling it, it looks almost dead straight.
Fender spec of .012 looks like a bow and arrow to me lol
I like mine just nearly no relief, but I like a higher action for bending and popping the strings.
Fretting out not problem.
Exactly! Me too, always seems to work out right.
This one?I have a little #36 1/4" Proto (made in U.S.A) flat blade right angle screw driver that is perfect for adjusting the truss rod on vintage necks. It has one blade in line with the handle, and one that is perpendicular to the handle. Makes adjusting the truss rod a breeze after removing the pick guard. I'm pretty sure they aren't made anymore, I've never seen them in hardware stores. I've had this one a very long time.
As far as relief goes, I give it just enough to insure it's not back bowed. I hold down the big e at the first fret, then hold it down at the fret where the neck joins the body, if I can see daylight under the string at the 8th, it's good enough. I set the saddles so it doesn't buzz. I don't like the action super low. Necks with the 7.25 radius seem to need a little more clearance than the ones with 9.5 radii.