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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by wadeeinkauf, Jun 24, 2014.
Wade, this looks great!
Thank all of you that offered your suggestions. I appreciate it. I have been playing this guitar for 3 months now. The below is my after action report.
1. The zero fret is great. It is the easiest guitar to chord at the neck I have ever had including my 2007 Fender Tele Deluxe. It has improved my playing greatly on any chord requiring a barre at the first fret.
2. A middle pickup will not work for me. The added tone is not worth the aggravation of picking over the middle pickup. My pick hits it and drives me crazy.
3. I included push pull pots in order to use "standard" tone circuits and to be able to switch to the Wilde Q Filter. After playing for a while I don't really care for the Q Filter for my type of playing. I did like the ability to split the humbucking coil on my Seymour Duncan Hot Rail though.
4. The angle for the bridge pickup is too severe. I had to put in a 7 string pickup in order to be under all the strings.
5. The jack plug for the guitar cord must be moved. when installed near where a tele's is the cord is at a uncomfortable angle due the shape of this "jazzmaster body" design.
6. The guitar on the strap is not quite balanced to my liking. I thing the top horn strap pin needs to be moved about an inch toward the neck.
7. The one inch longer neck is great. I think it looks good and it gives back the lost playability due to the angled frets. I am completely pleased with this neck design. I can't tell any difference in tone due to moving the neck pickup back a bit due to the longer neck.
8. I have not been happy with my truss rods. I want the dual action rods but must be able to adjust the rod without taking off the neck. I think the best solution for me is to use the SM Spoke Nut Hot Rod Truss Rod. You can get to the spoke nut without any problems and probably requires less space between the neck and the neck pickup than would be required for the allen wrench nut.
9. I do like the ability to set the tone and volume separately for each pickup so I will keep the four knobs.
10. I have re-learned yet once again. There is not a single all purpose guitar. Having tried several pickups and tone circuits on this guitar I have come to the conclusion in order to get the desired setup for one purpose you compromise the setup or the other.
11. I like the drop top design. With a 3/4 inch drop top there is plenty of wood for a 1/2 inch carve. Wire routing can be made before the drop top goes on so no pick guard is required which I like.
Very enlightening. I guess I was aware of some of those - but the different scale to fit the string is new to me - and makes great sense when I think about it. Thank you.
Great summary! Your lessons will help others, thank you for taking the time.
I've been contemplating jack placement (for a headless guitar) and am leaning toward using the "Brian Moore way" (in the back of the git). Having it on the upper side will allow me to have the git on my knee unfettered.
I have not done it yet so would not swear to it - but maybe worth a look.
Thanks again for the great summary of lessons learned. Awesome git!
Great idea. I have not seen this before. I often play sitting in my chair with the guitar on my thigh and the chord can get in the way. Thank you very much for posting this picture!
Thanks for the update Wade.
As far as truss rods go give dual action truss rods from bitterroot on ebay, low profile and easy to install with headstock adjust.
Thanks for the suggestion Ihsan. I will give them a try.
More info on Wood
First with a clarification: 4/4 hardwood is 1 inch thick when rough sawn. If planned on both sides it will be 13/16 inches. 8/4 hardwood is 2 inches when rough sawn. It will be 1.75 inches when planned.
If you want Birdseye or Curly or other figured wood try this.
Go to the largest lumber yard in your area. Not Lowes or Homedepot.
They can order this type of hardwood from one of their suppliers. Ask for their hardwood expert/buyer. Ask for at least one edge planned (trued/straight). This will make it easier for you to glue up. Below are pictures of birdseye maple and curly I purchased from the local Pacific Grove Ca lumber yard for $5.00 a board foot.
Note: The Curly was much better than the birds eye. The picture is the best spot on the wood of the birds eye. $150 got me four 8 foot long 7inches wide boards. Enough for the drop tops for 9 guitars. I also purchased 13/16 Alder at another lumber yard for $3.80 a board foot. Around $100 for the bottom of 8-9 guitars. If you are planning on selling any guitars you make tell them you are a commercial re-seller and get their "builder" discount. In my case for the Alder it was about $1.00 a board foot discount.
The drop top and the bottom Alder when glued together will be 1 5/8 inches thick. One eighth less than the standard Fender at 1.75. If you, like me must have 1.75 and are unwilling to plane down 8/4 (1 3/4") to one inch (or more exactly 15/16) (13/16th drop top plus 15/16 bottom = 1.75 total) then here is an idea. Buy a 7 inch wide 3/4 inch thick board of contrasting color like walnut. (Home depot carries this in my area) Put you table saw blade up all the way run the board edge up and cut a little more than 1/8th thickness of the board. Turn it upside down and do it again to saw through completely. Now you have a 7 inch 1/8ish thick board. Glue up two to the width of your guitar body and sandwich this between the drop top and bottom part. Now you have the 1.75 thickness. I think the dark stripe will look unique. Yes it is a lot of work but this is your hobby, right?
Great stuff wade. I appreciate you putting your insight into words. It's great that you did this for sourcing and treatment of the wood.
Chris, Thanks for the encouragement.