Tele control cavity too shallow

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by Rockdog, Aug 29, 2018.

  1. Rockdog

    Rockdog Tele-Afflicted

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    I'm installing a new pre-wired control plate and the control cavity is a tad too shallow. I believe it's the switch hitting the bottom. I need maybe a couple millimeters of clearance. My first thought is a sanding pen. Any thoughts?
     
  2. Ronkirn

    Ronkirn Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    try bending the solder tabs flat.. just be-careful not to let any thing short out... you may want to measure the depth.. if it's less than 1 ⅜ ths there's little chance it's gonna fit correctly if the switch is a traditional Oak-Grigsby, CRL or similar

    rk
     
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  3. trapdoor2

    trapdoor2 Tele-Afflicted Gold Supporter

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    All else solved, if the cavity depth is less than 1-3/8 and you don't want to re-rout the whole cavity: Find a sheet of old-fashioned carbon paper. Cut a bit to fit down in the cavity and put it carbon side down. Place the controls in the hole and press down lightly...enough for the interfering bit to press on the carbon paper and leave a mark in the cavity bottom. Remove wood (I'd use a gouge) wherever there is a mark. Lather, rinse and repeat.
     
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  4. Rockdog

    Rockdog Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks Ron--nice to hear from a master right out of the gate. It is indeed a CRL switch. Funny thing is it had a CRL in it before. Could be with the heat and humidity that the wood is swelling. As much as it pains me, I may wait on this project until it cools down (this is New England, so October at best).
     
  5. Rockdog

    Rockdog Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks, that's great advice.
     
  6. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

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    How deep is the cavity as it is now?
     
  7. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Tele-Afflicted

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    The spec depth on my plans is 1.500 inches which I find a bit tight - I like to make it 0.125 or so deeper. Just run a follower bit around the cavity, be careful when you get close to the jack hole and the hole from the pickups - if the bearing falls into the holes it will gouge out your cavity walls.
     
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  8. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Silver Supporter

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  9. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    I just went through the same thing last week and did as Marty pointed out. I did it on my drill press and used the depth stop. Just make sure you know the depth you need to go so you don't drill through the back. It took 5 minutes.
     
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  10. jimilee

    jimilee Tele-Afflicted Silver Supporter

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    I went through the same thing when I converted a tele to an Esquire. I bent the solder lugs and sanded below the switch. I just used a sliver of wood wrapped in sandpaper.
     
  11. TRexF16

    TRexF16 Friend of Leo's Vendor Member

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    Thanks Freeman, but I am trying to ask the OP, Rockdog, how deep the actual cavity he is trying to remedy is in its present state. I understand how deep a tele control cavity is supposed to be in order to function with all the standard Tele switches.
    I thought knowing how shy it is of "proper" depth might be germane to the fix. I suppose there's nothing wrong with making it a touch deeper than the spec of 1.5", but adding .125, as you suggest, does leave one just an eight inch of thickness behind the cavity, and that assumes a full thickness body. I've yet to find a switch that doesn't work in a 1.5" cavity, but I did have to run a strip of electrical tape across the bottom under the switch once - seems like it might have been a super-switch.

    Regarding the bearing on a router bit falling into the jack hole - excellent point/warning! But since I expect Rockdog will only need to deepen the rout under the switch, this wouldn't make routing not be the best way (if he has a router, which he may not, in which case I'm with the forstner bit crowd). Unless of course, it's a reversed control plate with the switch at the aft end. Then the jack hole must be carefully avoided.

    Cheers,
    Rex
     
  12. Rockdog

    Rockdog Tele-Afflicted

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    OK I got it to fit. I simply took a very sharp 1/2" chisel and applied minimal pressure just scraping the bottom part of the cavity where the switch rests. I took out just enough wood to make it fit. It's not pretty, but no one sees it anyhow. Thanks to all for chiming in.
     
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  13. jvin248

    jvin248 Poster Extraordinaire

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    .

    If you add cavity shielding you will want to stick a piece of electrical tape on top of that below the switch just in case to avoid accidental contact.

    Bending tabs and the tape is also the trick to putting a MIM/MIA switch in a Squier as the body is thinner.

    .
     
  14. eallen

    eallen Tele-Afflicted

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    Just for future refrence. I had a brain freeze, going on auto pilot without thinking, and ran into a similar issue with a current thinline build with controls mounted from the back and not enough space for the switch. I am going with a Schaller Mega Switch for the dimension reason and to avoid the cheap import ones. The Schaller's measures 1- 3/16 on height. It is cost a bit more and is more complicated switch but tons of options. Perhaps others with more experience with them can chime in.

    1535633996411.jpg 1535634001132.jpg
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2018
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