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Discussion in '2010 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge' started by guityak, Feb 27, 2010.
Now that looks more like a tele.
I also did the round over while I was at the table but decided not to round over near the neck plate. I eased those transitions with some filing and sandpaper.
I then removed the swiss influence, initially with hammer and chisel, then decided lots of dust with the router would be quicker.
I then attached the thinline template and smoothed out the hollow sections.
1.8kg now, much better than the 4.4kg earlier.
Took the cap out of the clamps and marked it for cutting then glueing.
Cut and positioned for glueing. Forgot the mandatory glue photo. Now it is all clamped up.
I understand your concern robt57. But I just relaxed the pressure on the body for an infinitesimal moment at the wrong moment. Not dangerous, just annoying.
beautiful looking build so far. It's been a treat to watch the progress.
This is gonna be a great looking guitar!
Thanks for the nice comments tdu and jimdkc.
I did not mean that as any type of a critique, believe me.
That wood remind me of the bubinga top on one of my bodies to a large degree.. Grain wise, not color so much.
I wonder if these two wood are of the same genius perhaps...
Only in my memory maybe,, side by side not so much...
The bubinga starts out so reddish, but turns brown...
Not being a Botanist I wouldn't know, but I'd like to know.
Thank you for your comments though, I am just glad someone is viewing and commenting on my build.
I've got a question for you, too: Seeing as sheoak is quite heavy, would it make sense to use sheoak for the body's centre block and top with lightweight wings from poplar or somesuch if you wanted a solid rather than a hollowed-out guitar?
Sheoak is Allocasuarina. The "casuarina" part is the giveaway.
It's actually a "softwood" being a conifer - probably the hardest softwood out there!
Floridians know all about Casuarinas, I think they call them Australian Pines (they do in Stephen King books that I read ).
The medulary rays are what make it a stand out. Very similar to the veneer I have (although completely unrelated) to the silky oak - which is a close relative of snakewood.
Looking spectacular BTW .
Thanks Nick JD. Now I know.
Hi Moggl I have pondered your question myself in the past. Sheoak is always used here in a way that maximises it's look because of the unique grain. So I had intended sandwiching some lightweight timber (probably pine) between 2 pieces of sheoak. I would then paint the edge black or simillar (hiding the pine) then do a double binding in white to highlight the front and back of the guitar.