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Discussion in '2010 TDPRI Tele Build Challenge' started by guityak, Feb 27, 2010.
+1, fantastic job!
Thats a lovely job you have done there sport. I was a little sad to see those outstanding medullary rays getting buried under the cap. I built some speakers and veneered with QS oak and then fumed or more accurately painted on the ammonia solution. The rays just shimmer in the light.
Would you care to elaborate on your method using the AC laquer. What do you use for cleaning up your gun ? What gun etc..
Anyway a well documented and inspiring build , good luck to you in the challenge.
Thanks, Mac. I buried the medullary rays for two reasons.
1 - I wanted a book matched top.
2 - The medullary rays are on 2 pieces of timber that had flaws in places that I could only get rid of effectively if I cut the timber exactly as I did.
Having said that I get to see the beautiful rays every time I pick up and admire the guitar just by looking at the back. Next 10 times I build a sheoak guitar I will choose and cut my timber very carefully to get the rays right on both the front and back.
Now about this lacquer. I have uploaded some pics for you. The first one is of the lacquer, the second the hardener, third is the correct thinners and fourth my gun.
The lacquer itself stays useable for 3 days in the pot and sets within 10 minutes when sprayed and is easily sanded and recoated within an hour. You can read most of the instructions on the side of the can and you will notice that it is imported to Australia from Sweden. When I finish a pot of lacquer I pour some lacquer into my gun, give it a good swirl and shake, then run it out through the nozzle and recollect to use again. Being a gravity fed gun it is so easy to clean. It is so much better than any suction gun I have used. Have I answered all of your questions?
You couldn't have answered that better thank you. I have been using AC on my Crazy Build but am applying it manually with a pad. As you know this stuff kicks of fast so swiping it on you gotta be quick. Then wet and dry as you say after about an hour.
Its kind of like shellac but not as forgiving.
In your estimation would one of the cheapo pump up guns do the job or to rearrange the question , what kind of pressure and nozzle size are you running.
I do like the hard wearing aspects of this type of lacquer , I use it mainly for flooring and worktops in my day job but I do not relly have the need to gear up to a full spray kit.
Thanks again Mac
PS a couple pics of my domestic speakers
It looks glorious under lacquer. Nice job with the logo.
Not trying to hi jack this thread at all ---- the second pic was flash and is all washed out. It was taken about a week after lacquering and the dark wood was still hot from sanding. after after about 3 months the dark colour became richer and deeper in tone --real depth. The rays stay much as they are at the finishing stage so the contrast heightens. The blue grille is more or less navy.
I would love to see the guitar that Guityak has built after a couple of years in fact he should take a pic or two now ( I'm sure he has ) and some in the future if the Icelandic ash ever goes away. The contrast will be remarkable. The colour of that wood ( the deep rust red ) reminds me of Madrone from California and it can only get better and deeper with age. I reckon it will end up the colour of aged tawny sherry from Jerez. Lovely.
Speakers are all JBL pro componets in a custom cab ( http://audioheritage.org/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=17238&highlight=backyard+box+building)
built to resemble the classic L300. It runs active ie I have an electronic x/over and 3 way power amping tailored to the system . Sounds well proper. Horns normally have a small orange JBL logo but these came from an oem. system and they have nothing on them at all. I got the decal from a car audio place. Use the link above if you want to see how they got built.
I do not know the nozzle size but to spray the lacquer I have decided maximum flow very low pressure. The last coat I did was 30psi next time I will try it even lower. Hope that helps.
I have got some sheoak I made into a coffee table as a kid here. I will endeavour to take some shots of it and you can see from that how the wood colour ages.
By the way the speaker cabinets look nice.
On a test piece, you may get sputters down there....
I bet you will loose a lot less to the air, I need to try that, I do 55 ish usually.
The best change I made was putting the air/water filter on the gun, so the hose temps and condensation issues get abated less than 6" from the spray tip...
I had been following the Preeb's Les Paul 1959 thread and unfortunately couldn't find time for anything else. Now I have stumbled on this thread and all I can say is 'Holy S**t". You are definitely much more than a guitar builder, let me call you an artist.
The guitar is turning out beautifully and I am eager to see it finished and also see some videos of this outstanding axe in action. I am one of those players that love the accoustic qualities of semi hollow guitars but hate the feedback. So, IMHO I would have done it without the f-hole, even though I must agree that the f-hole came out nicely and beautiful.
Congrats pal and keep on the good work!
Thanks for the reminder.......Test it first.
Thanks for the very encouraging comments, Strongpersuader. The timbers I have at my disposal mean I must hollow them out other wise they are just too heavy. I like the look of the thinlines a lot so thought why not try it all out at once in the $210 challenge. Others I build won't necessarily have the f-hole but will be hollow. I hope to have some sound clips and maybe even video up on Saturday. We will see what happens.
Yay, it is Friday.
Well I started the 3rd final process tonight. Wet sanding.
Here are a couple of pics after 600 grit. I then did some 800. Tomorrow morning 1200 and 2000. Then I crank up the polisher on the drill.
Water worries me, I use mineral spirit myself. Although then yo gotta deal with the smell a lot longer....
Water is cheap and I am not bothered by how much I use. I also try to be as careful as possible to keep the water away from any bare timber like screw holes and the like.
I have done it. It is finished.
But lets see the process first.
Wet sanded to 2000. Here is the between fret process and the finished back.
This shot shows my buffing arbor, aka drill and attachment. Also photos of the finished body and neck.
Drilling the neck screw holes in the neck and then the neck plate attached.