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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by gangreen, Oct 28, 2014.
Darrin very cool - what inserts are u using?
On these guitars I'm using the inserts and screws on the right because I want black hardware. #6 32's are the smallest screws I can find in black. I also use the ones on the left if I would like chrome screws showing. Have to be gentle with installing the brass inserts because they are fragile. Once you get them in they work great. However, if the pilot hole is too small the slot flanges twist off easily.
Very cool, I'd be so afraid of the router grabing what it's not suppose to and ruining the top. I had never thought to go at it with a grinder but it does kind of make sense when I think about it. I'll be using that trick. Your builds are fantastic.
I make a lot of light "downhill" passes when routing the contours. A sharp bit on a big router and big base help too. I've used that technique on ~25 guitar tops (and a few backs) with good results.
Right angle drill attachment works well for drilling spring claw holes.
Channel for the spring claw ground wire.
Channels for all the wires.
Spring claw in place.
Holes and recesses for neck screws and ferrules.
Locations for the volume pot and megaswitch.
3/8" hole and 1/16" x 1-1/8" channel for the switch.
Thinned the top to 1/8" under the switch channel.
Abalone side dots in place.
Card scraper to keep me from cutting into the first fret space while chiseling out the Floyd nut slot. Read Dan Erlewine's part on making/using a jig to do this OR use a sharp chisel and a careful hand. I chose the latter.
With the nut sitting in place and a straight edge over the frets into the string slot there is ~0.005" space at the first fret. Will shim the nut height when it's all together.
Clamped the nut in place and slowly advanced the mounting screws from the top to mark their position. Will drill them from the top.
Using the marks from the attachment screws on the top of the neck I drilled 1/16" holes through to the back. Used a 3/8" brad point bit to drill recesses for the attachment screw heads.
5/32" holes for the screws drilled from the front to the back.
Nut attached. Will need a few thous of shim to get it to the right height. The 5/32" holes allow some wiggle room so the it sits tight against the base of the first fret and can adjust side to side to match the edge of the fretboard.
Rough stock for covers.
Cut roughly to size with the bandsaw.
Routed to size with MDF templates.
Sanded to fit, covers rounded and screw holes drilled and countersunk.
Looks great! I would like to point out, though, that OFR Floyd inserts call for a 25/64" (10mm) hole, which is slightly larger than 3/8" (Gotoh licensed Floyds use an 11mm hole.) I'd just be concerned that installing the inserts might split the wood in front of the trem if the holes are too small.
For future use, I'd suggest one of these Woodriver brad-point bits: they work fantastic for Floyd inserts, and they're only $8. I bought one a couple months back to redrill for my Floyd and it was well worth it!
Again, thanks for the Floyd tip. The standard and metric sets of brad point bits will be acquired before my next builds.
I get the impression that I may have suggested it before and totally forgot. Sorry if I'm being repetitive .
BTW, Woodcraft also carries the same Fisch brad-point set that Stew-Mac has, but it's about $8 cheaper.
make yourself an insert driver and your should not have this issue in the future. just take one of the above bolts run a nut up high enough so it gets good thread contact with the instert and then either double nut it there or locktight it there. the driver will tighten onto the insert as you install it and then should break loose as you try to back off the insert. FYI, the slot flanges go in first and are there to help cut the threads for the insert. they are not there for driving the isert in with a screwdriver.
Went home at lunch and tried your insert suggestion. Clouds parted. Angels sang. Worked really well. Thanks for the tip.
Clears coats are done. Let them sit for a while before polishing.
Sat for a few weeks. Went over the body, headstock and cavity cover with 0000 steel wool to knock down any nibs or rough spots from the last polyurethane coat. Vacuumed and blew off the dust. Applied a coat of paste was, let that dry and polished. Then 2 coats of shielding paint in the cavities.
just beautiful, great work!
Here it is all dressed and ready. My first attempt with swamp ash and I really like it. Nice weight and feel. Great to work with. Will be using it again. I didn't stain the body. Just clear finish. Came out with the prominent grain on its own.
Found a laser engraver for the headstock signature. Looks better than my usual black sharpie. Thanks for the suggestion Jon. And thanks to everybody else for following and all the suggestions and humor.
Changing directions for the next builds but not sure this is the place to show them. Going to try my hand(s) at 000 acoustics - walnut, cherry and mahogany with fir tops. Seems like a lot of the same woodworking (dare I luthiary) techniques would be used/featured and as always I appreciate the suggestions and feedback. Let me know what you (and especially moderators) think about this. Thanks.
Wow. That's beautiful.