Harvette01
TDPRI Member
All right! The original filter caps looked like new with no leakage. I changed them anyway. All I can say is "Wow!" The amp sounds like new. Serious bottom end with amazing punch. Sparkly high end with great reverb. Love it. Thanks for all the advice. Next up: The power cord is 3 line, but the plug is only 2, so I need to change it to a grounded plug.Ahh, right, it’s still on its original electrolytc cap ecaps
Unless proved good (for ESR and DC leakage on a dedicated tester - ie not a multimeter), they should be assumed to be worn out / life expired and replaced. All of them, a long time ago
The most critical is the bias supply cap; as that eventually fails, the output valves will run hotter and hotter, putting them and the valuable vintage transformers at risk of damage.
Note that the 50V rating there is seriously inadequate, I suggest a long life (>=10,000 hour) 105°C 100V type.
Other caps (eg film, ceramic) should only be replaced if proven bad.
Generally they don’t require checking unless there’s some sort of symptom / malfunction that can be somehow be related back to a particular cap.
An exception to that are the coupling caps feeding the output valve control grids. With vintage amps I’ve seen too many of those that are dodgy, I suggest it’s a very good idea to check those reasonably often, eg every year or three.
To check them (for DC leakage), lift the legs at the 220k junction eyelet, clip a meter set for DC mV (red to the free leg, black to chassis common), power the amp up and read the voltage on one then the other. Anything more than say 50mV indicates a problem, cap is best being replaced, uprated to a 630V type. In some abnormal scenarios, there can be over 500V on those 400V caps, eg the valve in V6 has heater failure, amp powered up with the valve in V6 removed.