Suggestions please for this plebe Tele builder

[Whatdidyoudonow]

Hello fellow Tele fans. Some time lurker, first time poster, first time tele builder.

I know I'm not the first one who's made this mistake but I can't find much reference material to review.

I thought hey I'm not a genius luthier yet, I should probably try to build a body first maybe try to build a neck on a future build. So I bought this beautiful neck from Warmoth and thought it would be a good idea to have them drill the holes.

So neck fits. Not the tightest, but it's symmetrical with the body and after a series of 10 or so measurements over about a 1 week I get the same results when checking symmetry. I get within 2-5 100ths of an inch at 45.5 inches from nut to bridge. This morning it was dead on and I checked 4 times using calipers.

The neck screw holes are standard 1/8 inch with about a 9/16 depth. My plan for the last few weeks has been to cut either wood or metal 1/8 inch cylindrical stock to maybe 11/16, insert 4 of these into the holes, put into body and clamp down and create marks. I was then going use a drill press to drill out the 4 holes using these markers.

I'm starting to wonder if this will be accurate enough a method, especially now that I am dead on straight with the neck.

It seems to me I could better off long term

if I just fill the current neck holes with 1/8 inch stock and then use the template to "start over" and re drill both the neck and the body at the same time while clamped using the template I have. I am pretty sure I could keep the neck dead on this way.

So I'd appreciate comments pro and con. I'd prefer not to reinvent the wheel, but I'm totally amenable. I just want to build a good Telecaster.

Thanks in advance.......

 

[Wildeman]

That should work to transfer the holes, as you know the ideal way is, body holes first, but have you lined up the neck plate with your neck.

 

[Whatdidyoudonow]

That should work to transfer the holes, as you know the ideal way is, body holes first, but have you lined up the neck plate with your neck.

Thanks for your reply. Hmmm. No Wildeman I haven't. Bought an online template and was going to use that. Template appears cnc'd and accurate. Actually was not planning on using a neck plate, just slightly countersunk machine screws and inserts. But that's a whole 'nuther question. I bought brass inserts and have been reading that brass doesn't do well going into hardwood. Steel is readily available locally. Should I replace the brass with Steel?

 

[Sax-son]

You will learn a lot after you finish this project, believe me. You learn "what not to do" as much as "what to do". I found out that it is much easier to buy a pre-built body or necks vs trying to do it yourself. Why? Because when you add up all the man hours invested in building your own components, it is actually more expensive (providing you value your time invested).

After a few projects of total DIY methods, I said no more of this. Although my parts came out good, I said to myself that I have at least crossed that off my bucket list. I do not do enough of them to build them in a time efficient manner, so I just go with some reasonably priced bodies and necks. There are plenty out there to choose from and it has made my life much simpler. The only reason I did it in the first place was to utilize some exotic hardwoods that I felt would be worthy of the project and that I would be the only person who would want to take that on. The mission was accomplished, and I have now since moved on.

 

[Whatdidyoudonow]

You will learn a lot after you finish this project, believe me. You learn "what not to do" as much as "what to do". I found out that it is much easier to buy a pre-built body or necks vs trying to do it yourself. Why? Because when you add up all the man hours invested in building your own components, it is actually more expensive (providing you value your time invested).

After a few projects of total DIY methods, I said no more of this. Although my parts came out good, I said to myself that I have at least crossed that off my bucket list. I do not do enough of them to build them in a time efficient manner, so I just go with some reasonably priced bodies and necks. There are plenty out there to choose from and it has made my life much simpler. The only reason I did it in the first place was to utilize some exotic hardwoods that I felt would be worthy of the project and that I would be the only person who would want to take that on. The mission was accomplished, and I have now since moved on.

Thanks Sax-son. I put an OM together as a kit with a luthier looking over my shoulder 5 years ago. I didn’t appreciate the discipline of building then. But I’m enjoying it more now. I may get to that point of buying all cnc created stuff but I’m not there yet. But give me a few more builds and I may be.

 

[tomasz]

Warmoth uses standard Fender measurements on their necks and bodies. If unsure, you could use metal inserts to put in the holes and press against the neck pocket, to transfer the correct location of the screw holes, than drill from the top (ideally with a drill press).

 

[robt57]

Make a paper template on the neck, push pencil thru paper into holes on the paper. Position template in the neck pocket and mark the holes from the holes you pushed the pencil thru on the neck. Don't forget the flip mirror effect. Mark template neck and body side so you don't miss that aspect..

Or put toothpicks tight in the neck holes, role blue tape over toothpicks to make tight. Have them only be 1/8" sticking out. Line up neck in pocket and press neck down so tooth picks mark hole centers in body. I;d use a center point bit to drill the body hole from the tootpick marks. I'd also drill smaller hole first, then right size hole from back of body to neck pocket. Especially if body is sealed or painted. Tear out in the pocket won't matter. Tear out on the back bigger than the neck plate will need to be repaired.

 

[Boreas]

I recently had to do the same thing. Had a standard Fender neck and a new body. I found nails that were nearly the size of the screw holes (don't want to bugger the threads) cut them so just 1/8" or so of the point cleared the neck heel. Took tiny ball of modelers clay and applied to the bottom of the nail and inserted one in each hole. Centered the neck as best I could running a string down the midline to keep it straight. Then I just pooshed down with the heel of my hand and marked the body. Drilled SMALL pilot holes throught the body.

BUT THEN, you have to get out the neck plate you are going to use and center it as best you can on the body while finding the best alignment on the holes you just drilled. You have to be careful because all neck plates are not drilled the same. They aren't usually far off, but you don't want your screws angling toward the neck any more than you have to. You may be lucky and the holes line up perfectly. But if they don't, mark them with your plate and using a drill press preferably, drill the holes. The larger bit should get you down to the neck just fine. DON'T drill into the neck!!

I drill the body holes so the screw drops freely into the hole without binding. The only threads you want should be in the neck heel. That pulls the neck tight, yet allows for a tiny bit of alignment adjustment if needed.

 

[robt57]

Or cut drywall screws 1/2" from tip and thread into neck with tip 1/8" proud, press down into pocket with neck tight to body bridge side and non cutout side tight.

You got your marks pretty much indexed..

 

[Wildeman]

Thanks for your reply. Hmmm. No Wildeman I haven't. Bought an online template and was going to use that. Template appears cnc'd and accurate. Actually was not planning on using a neck plate, just slightly countersunk machine screws and inserts. But that's a whole 'nuther question. I bought brass inserts and have been reading that brass doesn't do well going into hardwood. Steel is readily available locally. Should I replace the brass with Steel?

Yeah, brass might be a little soft for that.

 

[crazydave911]

Whoa, 45.5" between nut and bridge? You're sh****** me . The whole damn guitar isn't that long

 

[RogerC]

This is what you want. The small punches screw into the neck, then you can press into the body to get your locations.

 

[RogerC]

Whoa, 45.5" between nut and bridge? You're sh****** me . The whole damn guitar isn't that long

And what Dave said. I'm pretty sure you meant 25.5" from nut to saddles.

 

[guitarbuilder]

I generally these days print out a copy of the neck template, cut it out with an xacto knife and set it into the body. If I had 4 sharpened pointy pieces of metal protruding slightly, that fit nicely in the neck holes, I'd use that too.

 

[ChicknPickn]

This is what you want. The small punches screw into the neck, then you can press into the body to get your locations.

This looks interesting, but spacial mechanics weren't my best subject in school. How does this work/help?

 

[Blue Bill]

I've used nails to locate the holes: Determine the length you need and cut the pointed ends off 4 nails, with a bolt cutter or hacksaw. The nails should be about the same diameter as the holes so they don't wobble, and the points should protrude about an eighth. This should give you 4 accurate pilot holes. Use a neck plate, it stabilizes the whole assembly and looks normal. Good luck with the build, keep the pictures coming!

 

[old wrench]

Thanks for your reply. Hmmm. No Wildeman I haven't. Bought an online template and was going to use that. Template appears cnc'd and accurate. Actually was not planning on using a neck plate, just slightly countersunk machine screws and inserts. But that's a whole 'nuther question. I bought brass inserts and have been reading that brass doesn't do well going into hardwood. Steel is readily available locally. Should I replace the brass with Steel?

I almost always use threaded inserts in my necks

I switched to using steel inserts exclusively - not brass

Sometimes you run into an extra hard piece of maple, and the thin edge of the brass insert threads wants to fold over - you won't have that problem with steel inserts

You want to make sure you drill the proper sized holes for the inserts - the inserts should fit snugly as you screw them in - but not so tight that you risk splitting out the wood at the neck's heel


.

 

[Ronkirn]

I NEVER have the/any necks predrilled.... in fact I don't drill the body or neck until assembly day.... that way, I can place the neck plate in the correct symmetrical position, mark the position of the neck bolts... drill the body... Now insert the neck...then use a 3/16 inch pointed drift to mark the position for the neck bolts pilot holes in the neck.. that way, it all falls together like a champ..

If the neck arrives with the holes already drilled.. I plug them then proceed as above..

 

[Whatdidyoudonow]

Whoa, 45.5" between nut and bridge? You're sh****** me . The whole damn guitar isn't that long

Oops, yeah. 25.5 would work better .

 

[ChicknPickn]

My quick/dirty centerpunch (roll nail with tape until it fits snugly in the guide hole):