Stubborn fret ends during installation

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by bunjamin, Nov 23, 2021.

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  1. KokoTele

    KokoTele Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    So you just take the neck out of the caul when you get to the heel? That hasn't worked particularly well for me.

    Its kind of moot for me. Refrets on set-neck guitars outnumber bolt-neck guitars about 3 to 1 for me. No idea why.
     
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  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    On a bolt on F style neck, I normally put a long piece of 1" thick stock on the press and put blocks under that on the workbench to the left which keep the 1" stock level. That way the heel is perpendicular to the ram of the press when sitting on the board.
     
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  3. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Yes, but you still need to support the rest of the neck with "something" so it doesn't rock.
     
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  4. KokoTele

    KokoTele Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    Why wouldn’t the flat heel keep it from rocking?
     
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  5. Boreas

    Boreas Poster Extraordinaire

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    On a Fender neck, I just used the heel and a chunk of wood UNDER the S/M support to get the transition. Most people use a hammer and interior support on acoustics above that point.
     
  6. Boreas

    Boreas Poster Extraordinaire

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    The 13th-14th frets can be an issue - depending on the press setup - and how many hands you have.
     
  7. Boreas

    Boreas Poster Extraordinaire

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    Maybe because more people attempt bolt-on necks themselves? Kitchen table fret jobs.
     
  8. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    Whenever I can I fret the board before gluing it to the neck. Then its just a matter of pressing against a flat surface.

    IMG_6123.JPG

    If its a screw on neck I unscrew it and cradle it in a cork lined caul

    IMG_6307.JPG

    If its a set neck or acoustic I have to hammer. Support the back of the neck with a cork lined caul, do the best I can. Fortunately many acoustics only need the first 7 or so frets so the heel and extension aren't a problem, when I have to refret the upper neck I have a small hunk of steel that I hold inside the soundhole to back up the blows.

    IMG_2936.JPG

    Interesting that all three of those necks are bound (kind of hard to see in the pictures) which adds some additional concerns. On bound necks after pressing the frets in I do tap the ends so they bend over the binding.

    IMG_5484.JPG

    And I always put a drop of medium CA under the end of the fret over the binding.


    ps - a couple of people have mentioned the old Fender side fretting system. Dan Erlewine has a good description in his book on repair. I had one of those boards come to me for a refret - I refused. Someone else can have the hassle (and get the big bucks). The J-bass in the second picture is the one and only finished neck I've ever done, again, I'll pass if I'm ever asked again. And one of my jazz playing friends brought me his old archtop with fret nibs - I sent him away too.

    So if some of you guys are looking to develop fretting skills there is a lot of business out there that some of us aren't interesting in doing.
     
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  9. Jim_in_PA

    Jim_in_PA Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    Rocking end to end...the heel is short and the neck is long, so if the non-heel portion doesn't have some support under it, the whole thing will be less stable...and you only have two hands. :) Just some simple support somewhere under the neck so the entire heel stays on the work surface is all that is needed.
     
  10. bunjamin

    bunjamin TDPRI Member

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    Can anyone confirm if the 3/8" shank on any of these cauls is magnetic? It appears the Palmgren half ton arbor press has a 3/8" magnetic hole for its attachments. That would save me from doing my own modification to the Harbor Freight press!
     
  11. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Poster Extraordinaire

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    The caul holder of my StewMac pressing setup is not in itself magnetic (ie it will not attract iron filings) but it is ferrous (ie a magnet is attracted to it). The shaft diameter measures 0.3715. I simply took the ram rod out of my harbor freight press, drilled a hole in the end and one on the side for a set screw. I had a brain fart and put the set screw on the same side of the ram as the teeth which makes it awkward to tighten (not a big deal but one of those brain farts that I'm so good at. The SM caul does have a narrower band in the middle of the shaft about where my set screw goes - don't know why it is there.
     
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