Strings on compensated saddles go over height screws

Peterquelle

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Hi,
I have a DIY Les Paul Junior (not from myself) that I bought with a compensated wraparound. The problem with this guitar is, that the neck is not in the right angle for such a bridge. I never could get the action as low as I wanted, but the bridge was already flush on the body. So I switched the bridge for an Allparts Short Tele Style with compensated saddles (This is why I post this here). I got it set up now, action and intonation is spot on, but the D and B string run right over the height screws of the saddles. First I thought I installed the saddles someway wrong, so i switched the D/G and B/A saddles, but it looks excactly the same. The way the saddles are set, the height screws are already lower than flush, so its not a problem. But did mess something up when installing the bridge? The strings run right in the center of the fretboard. On the picture it looks like the bridge itself is slanted, but at least to the P90 cover its parallel.
20230104_202012155_iOS.jpg


Edit: And yes, I slipped badly on one screw..
 

Boreas

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As long as it intonates OK, everything else will likely not be an issue. If it starts breaking B strings, you may need to put a tiny metal shim over the screw hole. You could also file/roll the saddle slightly where the string passes over the screw to make sure it is smooth and not abrading the string.
 

bender66

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If there would be one…
How much more do you need? When I need a few mm extra a Wilkinson with the adjustable G/B has a lower profile than the lightening bolt style. I've read that the PRS wraptails have a low profile too.

Let's see that whole guit. That decal looks intriguing.
 

eallen

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While untraditional I my fav top loader for builds is a Schaller 3D roller bridge. In addition to top quality the roller are adjustable to change string edge and between spacing as desired. They also come with a spacer for elevated installations for angled neck as used in set necks.


Eric
 

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BryMelvin

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You centered the fender style bridge on the holes for the wrap tail. LP Wrap tail bridges are NOT centered exactly. They are offset slightly.

Get as cheap trapeze bridge. String with it using the strap button hole to mount the tailpiece. place your unmounted tele style pridge under the strings. adjust mark and redrill the holes.
 

bender66

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I also see a bit of daylight between the D/G and B/e saddle. Doesnt look like enough, but loosen the string tension and scrunch those barrels together and see if that gets you off that height screw.

*edit. Actually all of the barrels dont look centered. They're all drooping Dali style toward the e. Same advice though as above.
 

Wallaby

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Just checking, I'm assuming you can't correct the shallow neck angle because it is a set neck and not a bolt-on?

It's probably a stupid question, I just thought I'd ask.

Something other than a 3-saddle Tele bridge might work better, like what @eallen mentioned or even a hard-tail bridge like for a Strat, if the string spacing is right.

You could also try slotting the saddle barrels.
 

Peterquelle

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Thanks for all the replies. First of all. Here is a pic from the whole guitar
IMG_6257.jpg


Yes its a set-neck, I thought about getting the neck reset but opted against it.

Also I had to put the wraparound way behind the posts because some measueremnts where not done right I think in the beginning. I had to change the intonation screws on the orignal bridge to longer ones.

The original bridge was from Rockinger and is basically an ABM 3021n.


All the strings where offset to the treble side with the wraparound. This is why I positioned the new bridge 1mm towards the bass side. Maybe 1mm was a bit too much.
Neck.jpg


Somehow on the all the picture I take now, the whole neck looks kinda crooked and slanted in comparision to all the other stuff on the guitar. I never noticed that while playing, just the action always bugged me kinda.

And you are right, the intonation screws are somehow tilted. I´ll try to jam the saddles togehter and see if it changes when tuning up.
Bridge.jpg
 

eallen

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Thanks for all the replies. First of all. Here is a pic from the whole guitar

Yes its a set-neck, I thought about getting the neck reset but opted against it.

Also I had to put the wraparound way behind the posts because some measueremnts where not done right I think in the beginning. I had to change the intonation screws on the orignal bridge to longer ones.

The original bridge was from Rockinger and is basically an ABM 3021n.


All the strings where offset to the treble side with the wraparound. This is why I positioned the new bridge 1mm towards the bass side. Maybe 1mm was a bit too much.
View attachment 1069493

Somehow on the all the picture I take now, the whole neck looks kinda crooked and slanted in comparision to all the other stuff on the guitar. I never noticed that while playing, just the action always bugged me kinda.

And you are right, the intonation screws are somehow tilted. I´ll try to jam the saddles togehter and see if it changes when tuning up.
View attachment 1069494

Part of the issue is the original TOM/ABR style bridge is made to provide the elevation needed to match the set neck angle. Fender style bridges are not. They are made for a parallel plane neck and body surface.

The dual posts of the TOM bridges are also designed to accomidate the rounded body contour of Les Paul style bodies. With your body being the 58-59 Jr style the top is flat rather than contoured seemingly allowing a fender style bridge to work on the flat surface. If you look at a the Jr though they still used the TOM style bridge despite the flat body surface. The reason why is the 58-59 Jr neck still had the 3 degree or so neck angle even with the flat body surface. That brings it back to fender style bridges not designed for the elevated string height from the neck angle without overly long saddle screws. That may be the source of the string locations on the saddles issues.

Eric
 

bender66

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Get out your tape measure and measure the scale length and figure out where you need to be.

Outside of plugging/re-drilling you have limited options I think. As it sits you're looking for a low profile long adjustability wraparound. A Badass bridge? I've never used one so I cant give any input.
 

Peterquelle

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I think ill try swapping the saddles with my regular telecaster (60s threaded barrels) and see how that looks, and then just leave it as it is. I set this guitar up for C-Standard for just a few songs, so it shouldn’t bother me to much if it plays well and strings dont break at the bridge.
 

NoTeleBob

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I don't know about the heights of lightning bolt/fixed wraparound bridges. But I did spend some time with the compensatable wraparound bridges – the ones that look like a TOM and a wraparound were mated.

They do come in effectively two different heights. One is several millimeters taller than the other. A lot of folks have had problems getting them low enough.

The descriptions don't generally mention the height issue but if you dig around in the specifications for the engineering diagrams you can easily see the difference.

If you are still considering going back to the wraparound, let me know and I'll dig out the diagrams and post them here.
 

hemingway

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Well, you could move the bridge.

Or . . . the screws coming through the back of the bridge into the saddles are wonky and need shifting to the left.

If they don't stay where you want them, jam something in that makes 'em stay.

Or get slotted saddles.
 

RockinforJesus

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Peterquelle

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I don't know about the heights of lightning bolt/fixed wraparound bridges. But I did spend some time with the compensatable wraparound bridges – the ones that look like a TOM and a wraparound were mated.

They do come in effectively two different heights. One is several millimeters taller than the other. A lot of folks have had problems getting them low enough.

The descriptions don't generally mention the height issue but if you dig around in the specifications for the engineering diagrams you can easily see the difference.

If you are still considering going back to the wraparound, let me know and I'll dig out the diagrams and post them here.
Wraparound would be the best option I think. But I thought the one I head is already pretty low. Even the studs are recessed in the wood, so the bridge actually touches the body.
 

badscrew_projects

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This bridge is your problem, its barrels have the screws too close to the center of the barrels. You can get other barrels with proper spacing instead (the bridge plate can be kept as is)

I’ve got these for one of my teles and they’re perfect.
Sorry for the french link, you can find the same on other ebay sites too, they’re sent from China anyway

 




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