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String Ferrule Question

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by jbardt, Dec 2, 2020.

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  1. jbardt

    jbardt TDPRI Member

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    I posted this in my build thread, but figured I should expand exposure by putting it here instead.

    Question: I have a set of Fender 0994918000String Ferrules. From my understanding, I should do a 5/16” hole with around a 3/8” counterbore.

    Those measurements don’t really match up with what I measured on the ferrules. Anybody use these ferrules (or other vintage flanges ferrules) and have any insight on the sizes?

    Thanks!
     
  2. guitarbuilder

    guitarbuilder Telefied Ad Free Member

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    5/16 and 3/8 are the norm for regular ferrules. You want a press fit or they will fall out. The 5/16" should be tight but maneagable with a press or hammer and block, depending on body wood. Try one on scrap first.
     
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  3. jbardt

    jbardt TDPRI Member

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    I tried the 5/16” on a scrap piece and it can be put in and pulled out with ease. I took a rough measurement of the ferrule and found it to be:

    8EE98067-1264-4D41-A290-ED4F46131A27.jpeg
     
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  4. GunsOfBrixton

    GunsOfBrixton Tele-Afflicted

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    Add some finish and you are all set.
     
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  5. jbardt

    jbardt TDPRI Member

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    Also, Am I correct in saying that 50s Tele Ferrules are recessed and flanged?
     
  6. Peegoo

    Peegoo Poster Extraordinaire

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    Do you have a letter drill set?

    N = .3020"
    U = .3680"

    Those would give you a nice press fit.
     
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  7. old wrench

    old wrench Tele-Afflicted

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    I tried the link you provided but it doesn't seem to be working.

    If they are the regular Fender brand vintage ferrules, 5/16" and 3/8" holes are right on.

    The way it works for me is that with those hole sizes, after I apply my finish, they are a very snug fit. In fact what I end up doing is applying a little heat from a soldering iron to sink the ferrules all the way in. Just enough heat to melt the finish (the overspray that collects in the ferrule holes) without scorching anything else ;).

    It ends up being a real clean looking install :).



    edit: I like using Forstner bits, but brad-point bits work OK too. Drill the 3/8" counter-bore hole first, followed by the 5/16" to keep everything centered correctly ;).

    .
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
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  8. jbardt

    jbardt TDPRI Member

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    Sorry, that’s the part number, not the link. I’m not sure why it did that.
     
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  9. jfgesquire

    jfgesquire Tele-Afflicted

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    And here's a real exercise in making it work...

    I had a body already drilled with 5/16" holes for modern raised ferrules but I wanted recessed. Without a stepped bit I had to figure out a way to center the 3/8" bit.

    5/16" dowel to the rescue. In the first pic, that hole that doesn't look completely drilled out is filled with the dowel.

    20180726_145506.jpg

    20180726_145927.jpg
     
  10. old wrench

    old wrench Tele-Afflicted

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    Yes, at least that's the way I install them, flush with the surface :).

    If I err on the counter-sink depth - I'd want the ferrules to stand a tad proud rather than being sunk below the surface.

    .
     
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  11. crazydave911

    crazydave911 Doctor of Teleocity

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    I now use straight ferrules, no rim. They're easy and I don't give a damn about period correct :lol:. On my steel's I use ball end of old bass strings

    Dave
     
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