Stretching strings

[Larry F]

I guess there's a way of doing things that is the way we have always done them, then there is sometimes a better way. When I put strings on a guitar, I have a method of stretching them that works OK. But even for a couple of days, my bends will sometimes flatten them a little. I recently read an interview with Clapton's guitar tech, in which he mentions stretching strings, but not over stretching them. Hmm. Does someone with more experience than me have a recommended method? Can someone explain what over stretching means?

 

[Westerly Sunn]

I could only guess, but I would think that if one were to stretch their strings so aggressively as to come anywhere near approaching the strings modulus of elasticity, then one would have overdone it!

On the other hand, I have always felt that stretching them beyond what the tension at concert pitch would cause would be over doing it.

I have always just given them a good tug at several points along the length of the string and re-tuned about 3 times and that has worked fine. I don't think it requires any deep physics for good results.

 

[kplamann]

From a physicist's point of view: strings, like any metal object, have a limited linear elasticity range. Within this range, the elongation is proportional to the force you exercise. If you loosen the force, the metal returns to its initial state. If you force the string beyond the linear range, the metal starts to "float" and the atomic structure is rearranged. The string is weakened, presumably not homogeneous any more, won't sound good and is likely to break prematurely.

If you want to stretch your strings in a controlled way you can for instance tune them three semitones sharp and then go back to pitch.

For metal strings for which the above reasoning applies, stretching should only serve to make the string settle at the tuner posts, the nut and the bridge.

In the case of nylon strings which are made of a polymer material, the strings need to adapt to the tension themselves by slightly rearranging their molecular structure; that's why they take considerably longer to stay in tune.

 

[Westerly Sunn]

I did the tune sharp 2 or 3 semitones thing for a while years ago and it worked extremely well, but I quit as I found it simpler and faster to just tug 'em out a bit...

 

[1955]

I have been interested in this for a good while, as I am changing strings fairly often, a couple times a week, (give or take) based on my gig schedule.

I am convinced that teles with vintage split-shaft kluson-type tuners present more of the tuning instability at the shaft itself, be it from settling, slipping, improper/too little-or-too many number of winds, break angle, aggressive bends, not tuning "up," etc.

For a long time I thought it was just the string elasticity fluctuating. That's a percentage of the big picture, but only more so under predictable circumstances!

With brand new strings I have found that it is necessary to employ a unified and light stretching method similar to the "string-stretcher" gadget, along the length of the installed string. Only a couple times. I also have tried many other things like tuning slightly sharp, etc. to break in new strings for a day or so.

Before a gig, basically anytime I put my guitar on, I do a very light stretch-and-tune for each string, and also bends, because when strumming, the heat from hands, and bending are introduced, the strings are more apt to fluctuate.

There is a point that strings have been stretched too much, and will not hold accurate tuning. So, even though countless players do not need to stretch, I find I must, and that means the life of the string is reduced. I change strings for nearly every gig mainly because I know as a heavy-handed player that I won't break one on stage (as a general rule) if I do change them each time.

If I am practicing gingerly, without forceful bending/strumming, I can install a new string pack, without a single pull/stretch, and remain stable. All that goes out the window once I do anything that compromises the point that the string rests IN the shaft. Cold/hot/humidity, etc. too. Hence, I am also interested in locking tuners/and of course, playing lighter and better all the time and I might never need them.

 

[Donelson]

I stretch in each string as I install it. I always start with the low E, whether with a fresh start or replacing one at a time. Tune to pitch, press down around the bridge and behind the nut, then stop the string at the first fret and pull up at the 13th fret a few times, retune, repeat, etc. The wound strings get stabilized after just a few repetitions; plains take more. Don't overpull on the high E; it can and will snap.

This works like a charm for me. I came up with this approach when I used to do a lot of studio dates and "had to" be in tune with fresh strings. My previous method was to "bend in" the strings. NG. Tears your fingers up and is inefficient.

Works for classical guitar, too, only those plains will continue to drift for a few days. Do NOT try to do a gig on a classical guitar the same day you change the strings; nightmare.

 

[Westerly Sunn]

As I pull up at several points along the string, I also use the right forefinger to apply opposite (downward) pressure to right (bridgewards) of the point at which I'm pulling up.

 

[Larry F]

Every once in a while, someone will start a thread basically praising this forum as the best, or one of the best, both for its civility and the deep knowledge and experience brought by its members. This thread is a good example of that.

 

[Donelson]

As I pull up at several points along the string, I also use the right forefinger to apply opposite (downward) pressure to right (bridgewards) of the point at which I'm pulling up.

Yes, I also do a similar thing, except the opposite way, namely stopping higher frets, and doing the pull-up at the midpoint.

The reason I recommend stopping the string, is to avoid the string popping out of the nut slot. On some guitars that absolutely will happen, to no good purpose. E.g., a Strat Plus, which has no string trees.

 

[Donelson]

I'll throw in one other little barely-related thing, that I do: Every time I change a string, I clean out the nut slot & saddle with a gnarly toothbrush that I keep around, and use a tiny bit of lube. I use that graphite stuff that comes in a syringe. One pack of that lasts for years.

I credit Pat Metheny for this one; I saw him at a class at Berklee, 1980 or so, when he recommended doing that.

 

[1955]

I'll throw in one other little barely-related thing, that I do: Every time I change a string, I clean out the nut slot & saddle with a gnarly toothbrush that I keep around, and use a tiny bit of lube. I use that graphite stuff that comes in a syringe. One pack of that lasts for years.

I credit Pat Metheny for this one; I saw him at a class at Berklee, 1980 or so, when he recommended doing that.

Great point, as the nut is also a culprit of a lot of string weirdness!

 

[rogb]

I use some stuff called Krytox in the nut and on the saddles. I got it for another use, but a pinpoint or two in the slots and saddles works well.
I have started tuning up a semitone sharp and leaving for an hour or two the back to pitch, seems to work OK with D'adds 10-46s. I found stretching kinda yanked the zing out of the strings but YMMV.

 

[AngelStrummer]

I rest the guitar horizontally on my lap, headstock pointing left. Rest my left hand on the string near the bridge and all four right hand fingers grab the string and stretch, working my way up the neck.

Repeat 2 or 3 times for each string.

Make sure that you have enough winds at the peg to go most of the way down it and use pencil lead in the nut grooves.

 

[Mjark]

A little tug is all I do, I have no problems. I doubt Clapton's guy does anything different than the rest of us.

 

[Diagoras]

I just tug on them at about the 12th fret when I install them, and they always seem to stretch/normalize pretty quickly. Fwiw, I use D'Addario EXL 115W.

I just installed a new set a few days ago, and after the initial stretch/jam session with them, they haven't gone out of tune since.

 

[uriah1]

I remember , where the number of counting shall be 7, not 6, not 8, but 7,.times to stretch string....before trying to tune...

I usually will repeat after tune

 

[Ziggy]

Once the strings are installed and tuned to pitch I usually just do a few bends at the 12th fret to start.

Then I play chromatic scales over the fretboard a few times.

I read that somewhere and it seems to work for me.

But I don't change strings that often. Believe it or not I prefer the sound of used strings.

 

[paratus]

I stretch in each string as I install it. I always start with the low E, whether with a fresh start or replacing one at a time. Tune to pitch, press down around the bridge and behind the nut, then stop the string at the first fret and pull up at the 13th fret a few times, retune, repeat, etc. The wound strings get stabilized after just a few repetitions; plains take more. Don't overpull on the high E; it can and will snap.

This works like a charm for me. I came up with this approach when I used to do a lot of studio dates and "had to" be in tune with fresh strings. My previous method was to "bend in" the strings. NG. Tears your fingers up and is inefficient.

Works for classical guitar, too, only those plains will continue to drift for a few days. Do NOT try to do a gig on a classical guitar the same day you change the strings; nightmare.

^This works great for me, plus a little pencil lead in the nut and maybe the bridge. I am ready to roll within 5 minutes or less of changing the last string.

Larry's comment about the people on this forum is spot on. This is a great place to learn and share, even the flame wars are polite for the most part

 

[emu!]

I don't think the string actually stretches, does it?

The pulling up on the strings is to get any play out of the part that is wrapped around the tuner peg. Once all the play is out of the string, it should stay in tune...unless the tuner peg is loose. There is usually a screw on top of each tuner peg...tighten it with a small screw driver REALLY tight...then use less wraps around the peg when installing strings.

My strings are wrapped around the peg only once...and rarely go out of tune.

 

[Diagoras]

I don't think the string actually stretches, does it?

Yeah, they stretch.