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Strange Wiring Change on My G&L Legacy

Discussion in 'Other Guitars, other instruments' started by Luke1026, Mar 9, 2021.

  1. Luke1026

    Luke1026 Tele-Meister

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    Last week I picked up my first G&L Legacy and I like it plenty good but after opening it up I noticed some odd wiring changes. Specifically, it's the wiring from the Bridge pickup. The white lead from the P'up is taped at the end with a smaller gauge red wire attached at that point which terminates at the 5-way switch as it should. It looks like an attempt at lengthening the lead, although that wasn't at all unnecessary, still, it doesn't appear to change anything. The black lead is wired similarly - it's taped to a smaller gauge green wire along with a bare wire, and they're both grounded on the volume pot. Again, the black lead has lots of length as does the white lead so I can't see the reasoning behind this nor can I see it as original wiring.

    Any thoughts?

    G&L Legacy Pup Wiring Pic-Crop.jpg
     
  2. Collin D Plonker

    Collin D Plonker Tele-Afflicted

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    I would not want that bare wire rattling around loose in the control cavity. It could short the signal.
     
  3. Rockhead

    Rockhead Tele-Meister

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    I can't imagine that is the original wiring. I assume it is a used G&L? Doesn't look like it is necessary length wise.
     
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  4. playforfun

    playforfun Tele-Afflicted

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    Well it doesn't look factory. I've had to spend a lot of time with my S-500 and it's paying off, doesn't just act like a regular strat. Really having to lean the bass and treble tone knobs. When I switch the guitar it's not a real dramatic change, except the neck beautiful, I may have to look inside and see what going on. I will say I haven't had this much fun with a guitar in a long time.
     
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  5. Jay Jernigan

    Jay Jernigan Tele-Afflicted

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    Someone (?!?) changed the bridge p'up and didn't want to solder.
     
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  6. Luke1026

    Luke1026 Tele-Meister

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    I agree, having an exposed bare wire in the cavity can't be a good thing.

    I just opened it up and removed the neck to find the build date - 8/1/8, I assume that might be the 8th day of the 1st month of 2008? I can't see any respected guitar builder to wire a new guitar that way.

    I feel the same way. Mine feels and sounds tighter, fatter, bolder, with an extended frequency range and great articulation. I love the PTB control system and want to use it in some of my other guitars but finding a 1Meg Reverse Taper pot is proving to be a challenge. I may have to just contact G&L directly and see if they might sell them. Before I got my Legacy I did a DIY mock-up on a Strat using a regular 1Meg pot but it functioned in reverse so it was a temporary setup just to try it out.

    I think I might just go ahead and remove those extra colored wires and solder it up the way I think it was originally.
     
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  7. Luke1026

    Luke1026 Tele-Meister

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    I suppose that's a possibility but the bridge p'up looks exactly like the others. If the idea was to replace it without soldering that means the skinny little colored wires were on the switch originally. Also, why would a bare wire be there in the first place when the green wire was already serving the purpose? Perhaps there was another previous owner who had done some strange wiring and the next guy just tied into what was already there? It seems that whatever the previous owner or two were trying to accomplish - they really didn't know what they were doing.
     
  8. EsquireOK

    EsquireOK Poster Extraordinaire

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    You're overthinking it.

    People are idiots. They do things that don't make sense, and/or they do things poorly. If you stop and wonder why about the details of everything they do, your life will be wasted.

    Does it work? Yes? Then close it back up and go on about your merry day. No? Then fix it.

    Going on a quest to find out why they did what they did is not only probably an exercise in futility, but it's a hollow pursuit. Knowing the answer would be entirely worthless.

    You don't need to "contact" G&L to ask if they will sell you the same pots they use. They have an online store; no direct human contact required.

    That said, those pots, and others like them, should be available from any large electronics component supplier, e.g. Mouser, for less. They aren't exceedingly rare components.

    Passive bass controls are great. The problem is that in the real world, they usually mean master controls, which, IMO, stink on multi-pickup instruments. I convert my Legacys to standard vintage Strat wiring, because I can't stand having the same tone controls apply to every switch position.
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2021
  9. Luke1026

    Luke1026 Tele-Meister

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    Thank you for your opinion. I'm sure you're right.

    The reason for my questions and speculations is due to the fact that this is my first G&L Legacy and I don't know if they designed their electronics differently than Fender with regard to their pickups. As far as I know, they may have incorporated a different approach that required additional wiring and a previous owner simply messed with it.

    I'm just being cautious and wanting to learn as much as I can so that I'm able to make any necessary corrections. With more experience, I'm sure I will know better.
     
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  10. boredguy6060

    boredguy6060 Poster Extraordinaire

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    I think that the bare wire is the string ground, without being able to get a better look, it’s just a guess. But there is no reason it would cause any issues. But, if you think it might flop around, then just take some electrical tape and secure it to something solid.
    I’d bet money that the wiring is not factory original. But if it works run with it until it becomes a problem. The components seem adequate , no reason to worry about them.
    If you just can’t be happy with it, take it to a tech and get it all sorted.
    Good luck.
     
  11. Luke1026

    Luke1026 Tele-Meister

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    I've not heard of a string ground before. Are they usually connected to pickup wiring?
     
  12. boredguy6060

    boredguy6060 Poster Extraordinaire

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    The string ground usually runs from the bridge to ground.
    If you have ever heard a buzz that goes away when you touch the strings? That is cured by the ground wire that goes from the bridge to a ground source.
    It’s part of every wiring layout.
    If I’m seeing it correctly the bare wire terminates by being soldered to the back of a pot, creating a ground point. It’s very common practice.
    There is a tiny hole that runs through the body, from the bridge to the control cavity and usually to the back of a pot.
    Hope this makes sense, but I literally just woke up and haven’t decide if I’m going back to sleep or to the coffee pot.
    Good luck,
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2021
  13. John C

    John C Friend of Leo's

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    I agree about the wiring; probably a prior owner's mod of some kind.

    I would be 99.9% sure the date is USA format so it would be August 1, 2008, not January 8, 2008. We go against most of the world and use MM/DD/YY instead of DD/MM/YY.
     
  14. FortyEight

    FortyEight Tele-Holic

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    So, side question.... I heard that they use ceramic magnets in their mdf pups... I was assuming that meant bar magnets but looking from the picture maybe that means the pole pieces are ceramic magnets? Or they are some other kind of pup. Or they use alnico and my information is incorrect.

    Is it a possibility those aren't stock pups... I didn't notice if you said you bought it used or not. Although you saying you thought it was made in 2008 and you just got it means it's used. LOL. I'm a little slow sometimes.

    I wonder if they are the stock pups.
     
  15. John C

    John C Friend of Leo's

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    The OP has a G&L Legacy; that model has vintage-style alnico pickups instead of the MFDs.
     
  16. Luke1026

    Luke1026 Tele-Meister

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    I've noticed that ground wire on other guitars but on this Legacy the wire in question is attached to the p'up lead and grounded on a pot. I can't see that being an attempt at a string ground. There is no wire attached to the bridge on mine that is visible.
    The reason I thought it might be Jan. 8, 2008 is because of the date stamp on the neck joint of Feb. 27. It seemed more likely to me that the build date of the neck and body would be closer together rather than 6 months apart, but obviously, that is possible too.
    It is possible but the others look original as do the solder joints. The previous owner said he had not made any changes to the guitar and wasn't aware that the owner previous to him had either, I think he was at least partially mistaken.

    The reason for my asking about this was to eliminate any chance G&L wired some of their single-coil models differently than Fender.
     
  17. SixStringSlinger

    SixStringSlinger Friend of Leo's

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    I recommend looking at your PTB in terms of three frequency ranges; below X frequency, (controlled by the bass cut), above Y (controlled by the treble cut), and the space between X and Y. So you're not only cutting bass and/or treble, but affecting the balance between three frequency bands. Start with all your controls dimed, and then back both tone controls back to about 7 or 8 and see what a change such a light change makes. It's great fun.

    The pots G&L uses can be found here, just choose the 1meg from the drop-down: https://g-l-online-store.myshopify.com/collections/electronics/products/split-shaft-potentiometer

    You can use 500k's as well, though my understanding is that the onset of bass cut will be a lot sharper. I have the G&L 1meg in my Strat and I think it's great.
     
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  18. Luke1026

    Luke1026 Tele-Meister

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  19. John C

    John C Friend of Leo's

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    Ah - then you're probably right and whomever dated the neck did so in the non-USA DD/MM/YY format. I don't recall seeing a BBE-era G&L with a 6 month build date gap.
     
  20. Luke1026

    Luke1026 Tele-Meister

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    I'm interested in what that stands for?

    The build info in the body route shows (among other things): RW – BE #1V
    So I assume that would be; Rosewood fretboard, ??? V-shape neck.

    Not sure about the BE or the #1.
     
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