1. Win a Broadcaster or one of 3 Teles! The annual Supporting Member Giveaway is on. To enter Click Here. To see all the prizes and full details Click Here. To view the thread about the giveaway Click Here.

staining bettle kill / blue stainpine?

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by papaschtroumpf, Dec 4, 2015.

  1. papaschtroumpf

    papaschtroumpf Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    702
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2015
    Location:
    Colorado
    I'm thinking about making a tele out of beetle kill pine. Fungus carried by the beetle infects the wood and turns part of it a blueish color, but doesn't affect its hardness.

    here's an example of what it looks like:
    [​IMG]

    Does anyone have experience with finishing this type of pine? I read that most finishes will turn the blue much darker to gray, which might still look OK but I'd like to understand my options. I'm on enough of a budget that I don't want to go get one of each of every finish option available if I can avoid it.

    I want to see the grain obviously. In fact I'm shooting for a "natural" look with very thin finish.
     
  2. jvin248

    jvin248 Doctor of Teleocity

    Posts:
    10,265
    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2014
    Location:
    Lions & Tigers oh Mi !
    .
    Your example picture looks great. Go for it!

    I have a few "blue pine" bodies in the works, most of the better specimens are still bare yet. These are the finished ones I have, the one at the top with the two big knots only has a slash of blue. That was finished with minwax Golden Pecan then clear coated with Varathane water-based clear. Photo was taken under poor lighting. Other bodies there are Golden Oak, Ebony (with paisley print), and Natural. Center red stripes are Douglas Fir heart-wood. The Golden Pecan I have is a little too orange on the white wood (looks great on the red Douglas fir). I suggest trying Natural with clear coat on a test piece. HDepot has small cans for $4 or quarts for $6 or so.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. papaschtroumpf

    papaschtroumpf Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    702
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2015
    Location:
    Colorado
    I love the one with the swirl on the bottom row!
     
  4. Cat MacKinnon

    Cat MacKinnon Friend of Leo's

    Posts:
    3,691
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2011
    Location:
    Colorado
    Ah, it's cool to see a fellow CO resident make a guitar out of beetle kill pine! For the past few years I've kinda wished I had a full shop to make a body out of the stuff (actually the idea started when they sold off the old Red Rocks seating a few years back.)

    Anyway, I'd suggest just getting a bit more of the pine to set aside for finish testing. If you're shooting for a mostly natural finish, you have a choice of clears that should all work well (lacquer, Tru Oil, poly, etc.) It's mostly a matter of how you want it to age and what finishing methods you're comfortable with. Most of them will impart a slight amber hue, which you may like enough as it is; otherwise, if you want to add a bit more color, you'd probably be better off with adding color to the clear, instead of staining or dying the pine directly. Pine is very blotchy when it comes to taking stains and dyes, but if you tint the clear instead, you won't run into that problem. Like jvin248 mentioned, some type of Minwax wipe-on poly that's already tinted would work well. You can also tint most clears with pigments such as Mixol or TransTint.
     
  5. nofrets

    nofrets Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    209
    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2010
    Location:
    West Virginia
    The Minwax waterbased clearcoat (Polycrylic, I think) has a bit of a blueish haze to it. It's hard to work with if you're trying to build a mirror finish, as it never seems to get as hard as a lacquer, and sand-throughs will leave witness lines. That said, a couple of thin coats brushed on and buffed back might just do the trick on this one...
     
  6. papaschtroumpf

    papaschtroumpf Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    702
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2015
    Location:
    Colorado
    thanks. I'm not going for a mirror finish, more of a natural, almost rustic, finish (I am embracing the knots in this wood)
     
  7. nofrets

    nofrets Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    209
    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2010
    Location:
    West Virginia
    Do you have a wood source you can share? My google-fu isn't turning up anyone that offers 8/4 boards...
     
  8. papaschtroumpf

    papaschtroumpf Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    702
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2015
    Location:
    Colorado
    CS Woods in Denver (http://www.cswoods.com/) has 10/4 rough cut you can plane accordingly. They only sell by the board, so unless you're local it may not be worth it.

    I'm playing with the idea of only doing the cap out of beetle kill and use flooring boards from home depot for it (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbrande...e-WP4-116-Tongue-Groove-Board-13010/205079973)
    It's tongue and groove and has a V groove, so lots of waste, but it allows me to walk into my local home depot and pick the boards I want for a few bucks a piece.

    I have some other salvaged/recycled wood that I would do the rest of the body out of but is not thick enough without a cap.
     
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.