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Stained top and back, opaque sides with Crystallac

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by gb Custom Shop, Nov 13, 2020.

  1. gb Custom Shop

    gb Custom Shop TDPRI Member

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    Hi all, hoping to get some help with a finishing issue I'm having.

    I'm finishing an ash body with some nice figuring, and some router beauty marks on the edges. I want to keep the front and back transparent, and the edges opaque to hide some filler. The overall colour desired is a vintage butterscotch / amber hue. I am using Crystallac products, including their grain filler, sanding sealer, brite-tone gloss, gel stain, universal white, and their pigment collection.

    I have already attempted this and almost got the colours spot on, except the opaque part could never get darker than the front/back as I was using the universal white as a base. I tinted my clear coat for the edges and eventually got the edge colour spot on, HOWEVER, I got some drips - particularly nasty drips because they're darker than the rest of the areas -like a dark brown, which is not what I want. Drips formed mainly around the top / cutout areas.

    I've made a couple spot repair attempts, but to no pretty avail, and deciding to bite the bullet and restart the finishing of the whole body.

    If anyone has tips for me that would be very much appreciated as I'm hoping the second run around will go perfectly. I haven't really taken pics of the mishaps but I've uploaded one of the back to show the colour scheme I landed on
     

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  2. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Holic

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    Multiple coats of that same color to build up a burst maybe? I think that would look pretty cool.
     
  3. gb Custom Shop

    gb Custom Shop TDPRI Member

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    Thanks for your suggestion. So that colour was made with the Crystallac gel stain base and pigments - I'm just not sure several coats of that stuff will build up to a full opacity.
     
  4. CapnCrunch

    CapnCrunch Friend of Leo's

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  5. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Holic

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    It's fine technique for a removing a run in a solid color or clear finish. The OP's dilemna is that the run his finish is tinted and the the runs make the finish darker due to the thickness of the layer. It is nearly impossible to scrape or sand back to a uniform color.
     
  6. gb Custom Shop

    gb Custom Shop TDPRI Member

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    Since last weekend I've stripped that guitar bare, and restarted the whole finishing process. From reapplying grain filler (tinted), to colour (opaque edges and transparent on the front & back), to sanding sealer and now I'm midway thru clear coats.

    In the meantime I've set up a dedicated spray booth in my basement with proper lighting. The controlled environment and the lighting have been a big plus. Additionally I've been scuff sanding between each coat, with special regard to the edges, with the thought I'd have better adhesion between layers. I also reduced the product flow from my spray gun, as well as the air flow & air pressure. Lastly I've been clamping the guitar horizontal after every coat. I'm now on 3 coats of tinted clear on the edges and no drips.

    Below is a pic of the spray booth, I believe that was when I was spraying sealer. Pretty state of the art I know....
     

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    darylcrisp likes this.
  7. darylcrisp

    darylcrisp Tele-Meister

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  8. gb Custom Shop

    gb Custom Shop TDPRI Member

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    That particular video is my 'holy grail' of info for applying Crystalac. I must have watched it about 3-4 times. Just never wrapped my head around applying grain filler after colour... One time I didn't sand back all the crystalac grain filler on mahogany (natural) and you could really see those cloudy spots
     
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