Squier tone pot

[mmaatt]

Hi,

I've just had my Squier Standard Tele professionally setup and can't belive what a difference it's made, it's a fantastic guitar, a real pleasure to play.

But to my question, the tone pot seems to have very little effect through it's sweep. The volume seems effective through it's whole sweep.

I'll try an explain as best I can, the pot turns through 180 degrees (12 oclock to 6 oclock), it's bright and seems unchanged for 150 degrees (12 oclock to 5 oclock) and then the last 30 degrees (5 oclock to 6 oclock) goes totally flat. The two ends are what you'd expect the tone to be like in these positions, there just seems to be little in the way of variety in between.

I don't know what value pots are used on these squier's 205k or 500k? Are they worth changing for some genuine fender ones?

And I can't see how to get the knobs of the pots, there are no allen grub screws? Are they split or solid shaft?

PS I changed the postion of the wire from the tone pot to the volume pot (well documented on this site). The tone pot control was same before this though.

Many thanks

Matt

 

[crowenor]

Most Squires use 500k pots. I suggest that you change to 250k pots. They don't cost much, a good bang for your buck.

 

[yegbert]

Your stock knobs simply press on to split shafts, you just pull up on them and they slide off. A firm hand grip should work, but if it doesn't place some cloth on the control plate surface to protect it from getting scratched and lift up from under the knob on two opposing sides with something thin like butter knives.

The stock pots are 500K. The volume is likely linear taper and the tone control audio taper. I like to replace them both with audio taper CTS 250K pots, both for how they work over the range as well as for how they tone down the trebliness a little. I recommend (link removed) Acme branded CTS pots or (link removed) Mojo branded CTS pots if you want to keep your stock knobs.

If you prefer to switch to set-screw knobs like (link removed) or (link removed) (these and many aftermarket knobs that are available only with a set screw made for 1/4" solid shaft pots have a sharper knurl than the Squier knobs, and so will afford you an effortless grip); I recommend (link removed) Acme branded CTS pots or (link removed) Mojo branded CTS pots.

Those pots with the dimpled bottom have a smooth turning action similar to your stock pots. Many Allparts branded CTS and some Alpha pots have flat bottoms and a different bearing mechanism that results in a turning action that is noticeably stiffer. After lubing well and breaking in I've had good smooth action with the Allparts CTS, not sure if the stiff Alphas will loosen up similarly.

Those pots I referenced also have a .25" bushing length which fits best within minimal washers to get your knob down close to the control plate. Some Allparts branded CTS pots have a longer bushing, if you use them you're likely to need an extra washer or two under the control plate to space them down.

Fender branded pots are typically CTS but may be of either bearing design and bushing length, and it's somewhat harder to predict what you're going to get with them.

You may need to ream out slightly the holes in your stock control plate, the stock Squier (Mighty Mite) control plate holes are typically slightly smaller than the bushings on those pots. A little work with a round hole file or careful and judicious use of a drill with a bit the right size will open them up.

 

[mmaatt]

Many thanks for the quick replies.

250k it is then. Do i need to change the capacitor for one of a different value if changing from 500k to 250k pots?

Thanks

Matt

 

[photoweborama]

Well, you will have to re-solder all the connections anyway, you might as well.

I don't know what Squiers come with but with 250K pots, .022mf is most common.

A Mylar cap is most common, though I've seen disk caps before. Should cost you about $1.75 for A PACK OF 5.

Yes, they are really cheap....

Oh, and posts are from 3.75 to $8.00 each, depending on brand, and where you buy them.

 

[yegbert]

No, your change in pot value doesn't mean you have to change cap value. What works best is somewhat subjective and maybe best determined by your own experimentation, the same as it is for pot value.

And the stock cap type or quality shouldn't be, IMHO, a concern. But others will have different opinions on this, so YMMV.

My Squier Standards came with .033µF caps, below is a picture of one still on the original mini pot. My meter automatically shows the value in nF; 33.24nf is equal to .03324µF. Meters like this are under $25, indispensible for taking the guesswork out of components like these.

The most common usage I've seen in Fender branded recent production single coil Teles with standard wiring is .05µF or .047µF, the difference between those values is insignificant and theoretical anyway since they are made within a certain tolerance and one of either will vary some slightly in actual value. I've experimented with different value caps, I most often use a .047µF cap.

You can get caps cheap at Radio Shack, those work fine for me.

Here's an old thread with some useful info about tone caps.

 

[Amby]

Hi mmaatt, Good advice as always from yegbert. You can get what you need here:
(link removed)

or, as you are in Kent, here:
http://www.wdmusic.co.uk

 

[mmaatt]

Thanks again for the replies.

Nothing ever seems straight forward, I suppose thats the point of modding your guitar, to get your tone, not somebody elses.

So I ordered CTS 250k audio taper pots and .047 & .022 Sprague orange drop.

I'll try each capacitor in turn and see if I can tell the difference, if I can I'll have to choose. Then I'll be able to join the which is best debates

Many thanks

Matt

 

[mmaatt]

So, my pots and capacitors arrived, wired it all up exactly the same as it was and nothing.

like this: http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-tech/29394-share-your-tele-tweaks-4.html

I took out the 250k volume pot and put back the original 500k pot and left the 250k tone pot in, wiring exactly the same. And it all works??

I don't know if the pot is broken, I've broken it or something else.

How can I test the pot. I tried with my multimeter to measure resistance with my meter on 2k touching the three tags in every combination, which produced no readings. I tried the tone pot as well, as i know this works cause it alters the tone when it's plugged in, but I couldn't get any readings of that either.

I dont understand it, i'll be honest!!

 

[telecaster1987]

Hey there!

If you had your meter set on 2k range, that's too low to read a 250k pot. Try to set the meter to autorange or to 2M ohm range to read the lower resistance. Measure across the two outside terminals to read the pot's resistance, where the middle and either outside terminal will vary by turning the shaft. If you still get the same "no readings" (open circuit) the pot is either bad or maybe got damaged by too much heat.

Check the leads and meter by touching the two probe leads together, and if the reading doesn't go to near zero (short circuit), there's something wrong with the leads or the meter.

Good luck!