Squier Affinity arrived in the mail

Deeve

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Well done - a pawn-shop guitar is a great place to work on the set up & repair skills.
In the course, you'll be making this guitar yours, with value well beyond the modest purchase price.
Peace - Deeve
 

JeffroJones

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Actually, there is usually a different feel between gloss and satin finishes of the same material. Many prefer one over the other.

But what I see on your headstock heel looks like overspray and not wear. Also your fretboard seems to be consistently glossy, but wear would only show glossy spots between the frets.
Thanks for your thoughts, Boreas.
Here's another picture of the fretboard, there does seem to be gloss/satin patches, but it only shows at a certain angle.

tele_shine.jpg


The finish is not worn through, making a darker spot, it is still in good condition.
In any case, having gotten more used to the feel of the neck, the shine is no big deal, I'm getting used to it!

@1guy: wow, that is heavy duty! Did you separate the parts completely before rejoining?

@mimmo: Thanks :)

@Flip G : Noted :) In my defence, I was quoting the online pawn shop! I subsequently found out that Fender referenced the model as "Butterscotch Blonde". I think there may be an Orange model, but I think its opaque. The Butterscotch clearly shows grain.

@Deeve: I'm sure you're right! Now I wish I'd done this years ago :p
 
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1guy

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Thanks for your thoughts, Boreas.
Here's another picture of the fretboard, there does seem to be gloss/satin patches, but it only shows at a certain angle.

View attachment 995207

The finish is not worn through, making a darker spot, it is still in good condition.
In any case, having gotten more used to the feel of the neck, the shine is no big deal, I'm getting used to it!

@1guy: wow, that is heavy duty! Did you separate the parts completely before rejoining?

@mimmo: Thanks :)

@Flip G : Noted :) In my defence, I was quoting the online pawn shop! I subsequently found out that Fender referenced the model as "Butterscotch Blonde". I think there may be an Orange model, but I think its opaque. The Butterscotch clearly shows grain.

@Deeve: I'm sure you're right! Now I wish I'd done this years ago :p
No, I didn't...the worst part of the crack was around the neck. Then when I took the neck off, I found even more damage in the seat area.

I reglued and clamped the neck, injected glue deep in the vertical crack and and bound it for a few days...it seems to be pretty secure now.

In a lil while, I'ma go in the lab and try switching the wires and resolder and hope that does the trick.

She used to play fine, a few years ago, and the bridge pup worked perfectly...I mainly used that one.

But once I upgraded a few times, and didn't play her much, she repaid my neglect by quitting on me..lol

This used to be my son's first touring guitar and he tried smashing it in a show.

I used to hang it on my wall, but one day I decided to find all the parts she needed and put her back together and learn to play.

One of the best decisions I ever made.
 

1guy

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1guy- I think that a hum is usually caused by a bad ground. The bridge pup not working along with the hum is likely connected (too coincidental). Sounds like a wiring issue- maybe a cold solder joint?

I'd start simple and work your way out. If you have a multimeter, measure the resistance on the bridge pup at the leads to confirm continuity. As long as it isn't 0, the wiring inside the pup is OK. You could also hook it directly to the output jack to test if it is functional. If it is, start working your way through the rest of the wiring.
@1 21 gigawatts

You are THE MF'n MAN!!!!

Ok...I got to thinking about what you said this morning, and when I took it completely apart originally, I realized that maybe I didn't have the wires to resold correct...and what the incorrect wiring would sound like...a bad hum, maybe.

So, by the time I got in the shower and thinking more about it, I went from praying that it would work to kinda expecting it to work.

Redid the wiring a minute ago...

And lo and behold...she's quiet as a mouse.

The middle position on my pup selector is a lil scratchy, the bridge is still out, but the neck pup sounds like new money!!

I can work on the rest later, but at least I can play ol Blondie again.

Any other suggestions on getting those other two working?

I owe you BIG TIME!
 

JeffroJones

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Just a note to Boreas, one of the posters kind enough to offer their thoughts:
RE: the issue of the change from a gloss to satin sheen on the neck.
Was the gloss a different finish, or simply a satin-finish shined smooth by wear?
I eventually noticed this in a different light:

tele_satin.jpg


There is an obvious line between the two finishes on the top of the headstock.
No way this is a result of thumb or finger wear.
It must be the over-spray you suggested.
 

radiocaster

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I'm not even sure what they put on there from the factory can even be called a finish, the necks feel very raw and are very white. Could be a sealer or something. Very minimal in any case.

The owners of those guitars do try different things like Kiwi, wax, stains, sprays, etc. to make them a bit darker.

There is no way a fingerboard that yellow like in the pics would come from the factory.
 

Boreas

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Just a note to Boreas, one of the posters kind enough to offer their thoughts:
RE: the issue of the change from a gloss to satin sheen on the neck.
Was the gloss a different finish, or simply a satin-finish shined smooth by wear?
I eventually noticed this in a different light:

View attachment 995436

There is an obvious line between the two finishes on the top of the headstock.
No way this is a result of thumb or finger wear.
It must be the over-spray you suggested.
Yeah, that was fairly obvious to me in your OP and 4th picture. But pix can be deceiving, so couldn't really say for sure. But further testing would be required to determine what the overspray was - that is, if it matters to you. IMO, white (0000) and light gray (0) 3M scratchy pads are your best tools right now - either to gloss up the satin or "satinize" the glossy parts - or simply blending away the obvious spray lines.

The gloss on the fretboard itself is primarily aesthetic, because you really don't feel the fretboard as much as you do the back of the neck. But it can be satinized as well at your next string change. A good time to polish the frets after you are done, or just use the withe pads to polish them if they don't have many deep scratches.
 
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JeffroJones

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...that is, if it matters to you. IMO, white (0000) and light gray (0) 3M scratchy pads are your best tools right now - either to gloss up the satin or "satinize" the glossy parts - or simply blending away the obvious spray lines.
The more I play it, the less it matters, I think, but I will bear it in mind, thanks :)
It's got nicks and scratches and dents all over it (hey, its reliced!) so I'm not worried about the aesthetics, it was more the puzzle of it.
The black scratchplate is buckled, so I've ordered a nice looking brown tortoiseshell replacement. When I swap that, I will be able to have a look at the wiring inside, eyeball it for corrosion etc, have a look at the pickups, and change the strings, which have seen better days, adjust the saddles, they're all higgledy-piggledy and tweak the intonation. Plenty to look forward to 😁😁😁
 

Boreas

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The more I play it, the less it matters, I think, but I will bear it in mind, thanks :)
It's got nicks and scratches and dents all over it (hey, its reliced!) so I'm not worried about the aesthetics, it was more the puzzle of it.
The black scratchplate is buckled, so I've ordered a nice looking brown tortoiseshell replacement. When I swap that, I will be able to have a look at the wiring inside, eyeball it for corrosion etc, have a look at the pickups, and change the strings, which have seen better days, adjust the saddles, they're all higgledy-piggledy and tweak the intonation. Plenty to look forward to 😁😁😁

Enjoy! Take pix of everything with the hood off for future reference, and post a few here!
 

JeffroJones

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My plan was to await the arrival of a new scratchplate, then to check the pickups etc while replacing that.
But I wondered if I could get the old black plastic guard back into shape, I saw some people on youtube flattening buckles with heat.
Alas, it didn't work for me, maybe the plastic was not the right type. Oh well. But at least I saw the buckle wasn't hurting anything - the neck pickup area wasn't overly dusty or dirty.
But man oh man, the dirt and rust that needed cleaning!

tele_scratch.jpg


This is the underneath of the scratchplate and its corresponding screw-hole. Those are shiny dots of moisture around the hole! I mean, its winter and all, but how long has this thing been sitting around with actual water over it?

tele_screws.jpg


The screws from the scratchplate - yikes!

tele_pickup.jpg


The bridge pickup is dusty, but otherwise looks OK. That's a ceramic pickup, I guess.


tele_bridgeplate.jpg


And here's the bridge-plate.


tele_bath.jpg


Every removable metal part gets a bath in WD40! That'll sort out the rust and corrosion.

tele_bridgeplateclean.jpg


The bridge-plate gets washed and polished - it ain't perfect, but it's an improvement!
Then the screws and springs and saddles come out of their bath, and its time to put it all back together.

replacepickup.jpg


Re-assembling the bridge plate and pickup was a bit of a chore - wrangling the springs was tricky - I looked for help on youtube, but couldn't find any advice, so I just persevered and eventually it came together...

tele_radius.jpg


Now to adjust the bridge saddles. I made a radius gauge. It's not fancy, but it's cheap!
The neck pickup is body-mounted, so its height has to be adjusted with the scratch-plate off.
I'm taking all my specs off the Fender site, re: string clearance, pickup heights, etc.

tele_intonation.jpg


And there we are! I spend 30 minutes on the intonation, going back and forth obsessively with the tuner...
The saddles have a nice curve (thank you home made radius gauge) and the new strings are on and stretched.
Time to plug it in. I lean more to Duane Eddy than Keith Richards, so I ran through 40 Miles of Bad Road.
It rang like a bell!!!
SWEET :)
 
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John Stephen

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My plan was to await the arrival of a new scratchplate, then to check the pickups etc while replacing that.
But I wondered if I could get the old black plastic guard back into shape, I saw some people on youtube flattening buckles with heat.
Alas, it didn't work for me, maybe the plastic was not the right type. Oh well. But at least I saw the buckle wasn't hurting anything - the neck pickup area wasn't overly dusty or dirty.
But man oh man, the dirt and rust that needed cleaning!

View attachment 996233

This is the underneath of the scratchplate and its corresponding screw-hole. Those are shiny dots of moisture around the hole! I mean, its winter and all, but how long as this thing been sitting around with actual water over it?

View attachment 996214

The screws from the scratchplate - yikes!

View attachment 996234

The bridge pickup is dusty, but otherwise looks OK. That's a ceramic pickup, I guess.


View attachment 996215

And here's the bridge-plate.


View attachment 996217

Every removable metal part gets a bath in WD40! That'll sort out the rust and corrosion.

View attachment 996221

The bridge-plate gets washed and polished - it ain't perfect, but it's an improvement!
Then the screws and springs and saddles come out of their bath, and its time to put it all back together.

View attachment 996227

Re-assembling the bridge plate and pickup was a bit of a chore - wrangling the springs was tricky - I looked for help on youtube, but couldn't find any advice, so I just persevered and eventually it came together...

View attachment 996228

Now to adjust the bridge saddles. I made a radius gauge. It's not fancy, but it's cheap!
The neck pickup is body-mounted, so its height has to be adjusted with the scratch-plate off.
I'm taking all my specs off the Fender site, re: string clearance, pickup heights, etc.

View attachment 996230

And there we are! I spend 30 minutes on the intonation, going back and forth obsessively with the tuner...
The saddles have a nice curve (thank you home made radius gauge) and the new strings are on and stretched.
Time to plug it in. I lean more to Duane Eddy than Keith Richards, so I ran through 40 Miles of Bad Road.
It rang like a bell!!!
SWEET :)
Nice work! Enjoy it.
 

Zepfan

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Good guitars can be found at Pawnshops, just have to look through the bad ones to find some good ones. I have 4 out of 6 that I got from Pawnshops that were great deals.
Got a DeArmond M72 Bluesbird for $300 and a Johnson Strat for free due to a couple pieces missing on the M72.
Got a Squier Bullet Strat for $70 - just dirty and had a broken nut.
Got a Lyon by Washburn for $40 - nut, electronics and trussrod.
2 24" scale kids Strats for $50 - Might get 1 good Duosonic/Mustang clone out of the 2.
 

JIMMY JAZZMAN

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Just got my new Affinity last week. White with a PF fretboard. The neck was flawless, as well
as the nut. A little truss rod adjustment and away we go. The pickups sound good on my Vox ac15c1,
so I'll do no pickup changes for now. Price $250 from the Fender web site.
 




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