Spit and Runs

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Tele Dad, May 16, 2021.

  1. Tele Dad

    Tele Dad TDPRI Member

    Posts:
    24
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2015
    Location:
    Northeast
    Hello experts,
    Quick question here. I am spraying LPB on a strat and have some spots from the spray can spitting a bit. I warmed up the can in water, but alas.

    My question is what to do about the spots. Keep adding coats on top? Sand them out? If so, what grit?

    I know this topic has been covered but thought I would post it fresh because I am using a metallic LPB finish and not sure if that would change the answer.

    Thanks in advance!!
     
  2. KelvinS1965

    KelvinS1965 Tele-Afflicted

    Posts:
    1,089
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2014
    Location:
    Wokingham England
    With metallic paints you can't really sand out defects. You'll find that the metallic will go kind of 'patchy' if you sand those spits or other marks.

    You'll have to try again on top with more coats, though you could sand back this damaged coat a bit if the spits are sticking up from the surface.

    Good luck: I just finished spraying a 'simple' light Sonic blue Strat and it took me 3 attempts (one 'overcoat' then I stripped it right back to bare wood and started again!).
     
    Gevalt likes this.
  3. Controller

    Controller Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

    Posts:
    4,506
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2010
    Location:
    Montana
    I thought this might be another thread about getting old!
     
  4. RiversQC

    RiversQC Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    383
    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2018
    Location:
    Quebec
    I would try waiting until dry, knock down any spit marks with really (really) light sanding if you think you can, and re-coat area. But wait for a few opinions ;)

    If you're doing this from a can, I stop and wipe the tip very often. Little build ups can form on the nozzle which will turn into spits if you dont wipe in time.
     
  5. Tele Dad

    Tele Dad TDPRI Member

    Posts:
    24
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2015
    Location:
    Northeast
    Thanks all. Good call on wiping the nozzle.
     
    KelvinS1965 likes this.
  6. Rigel7

    Rigel7 Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    310
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2011
    Location:
    Nova Scotia
    Heya, Dad. I dunno if this will help in your situation, but once it's hard you could put a piece of painters tape on either side of the unwanted build up and scrap it away with a razor blade. I've done it with lacquer at least. I picked it up from someone who did body work on cars, so it should work for other paint types.
     
  7. Gevalt

    Gevalt Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    162
    Joined:
    May 29, 2011
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    I heard this trick before. Didn't work for me, but I'm glad yours didn't delaminate. Dang 'ol rustoleum 2k junk!
     
  8. Gevalt

    Gevalt Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    162
    Joined:
    May 29, 2011
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC
    I've refinished one guitar in metallic, about 4 times. Each w/diff. brands, as most suck. Yikes. I am no painter. HW-store cans only makes it harder, so I hope you have decent nitro. Watco is impervious to the green stripper I use on poly, so make your own decision. Most recent guitar was was done by a pro because my ol'gold one holds baggage.
    Prep is everything, esp. with metallic.
    The last 1/4 or more of the can will spit and ruin work
    wear a proper respirator, paint outdoors, and don't worship the minty gold gods partying in your blood *cough*
     
  9. brookdalebill

    brookdalebill Tele Axpert Ad Free Member

    Age:
    64
    Posts:
    96,057
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2009
    Location:
    Austin, Tx


    I thought it would be about punk rockers.
     
    Controller likes this.
  10. Tele Dad

    Tele Dad TDPRI Member

    Posts:
    24
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2015
    Location:
    Northeast
    Thanks all. I am using Reranch nitro. I do have a respirator and am outside.

    I may try the razor blade, thanks!
     
  11. stratisfied

    stratisfied Tele-Holic

    Age:
    68
    Posts:
    839
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2019
    Location:
    Midwest
    This plus a couple caveats.

    Never press or release the nozzle when pointed at the surface you're painting. Paint in long strokes starting and ending beyond the surface you're painting.

    Make sure your trigger finger isn't overlapping the spray nozzle when depressing it. It sounds silly, but it happens and causes spitting of the paint and can even cause the paint to drip onto the surface you're painting.

    Clean your spray nozzles after use by soaking overnight in lacquer thinner.

    Lastly, spray your guitar body laid flat and supported from underneath up off the "spray table". Spray the back and sides, let it dry and then flip it over to paint the front, overlapping your spray to the sides. The paint will flow out smoother and flatter and if you don't load up the sides too heavy, you'll have no drips. Hanging the body up to spray just invites gravity to make the paint run or sag unless you're an accomplished painter.
     
    KelvinS1965 likes this.
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.