Sonic Differences in Bridge Plate Styles

[Maggot]

I just got a used Classic Vibe 60s Tele. It came with a regular Fender ashtray bridge and brass saddles rather than the Classic Vibe bridge and steel saddles. I have no problem with the way that the bridge sounds. However, I prefer to have a bridge plate with cutaway sides or no sides, because it makes it easier for me to palm mute. That's part of the reason that I haven't bought a Tele in a decade or so, but it can be remedied by replacing the bridge plate.

The easiest solution would be to buy a cheap vintage-style baseplate with cutaway sides from Wilkerson or Tone Ninja, attach my current saddles and go to town. Is there anything about actual bridge plates that I need to play close attention to, or will anything do? Is it possible to buy a 4-screw bridge plate for a Tele that will not do the job properly?

My other option would be to get a modern-style bridge with no sides at all and 6 block saddles, for example a Fender standard bridge with the steel saddles costs about $20. Kluson also makes a fairly inexpensive one that has 6 modern-brass saddles. The advantage would be ease of setup, and a smoother, more open feel. Disadvantage is that it's less Tele-like. Are the sonics of the modern bridge plates that different?

 

[Festofish]

Just make sure it’s a metric bridge.

 

[Maggot]

Just make sure it’s a metric bridge.

I've never had a standard anything not fit on a Classic Vibe. My experience with both Strat and P-Bass is that if purports to be standard and it has the right number of screw holes, it works.

 

[Jakedog]

I just got a used Classic Vibe 60s Tele. It came with a regular Fender ashtray bridge and brass saddles rather than the Classic Vibe bridge and steel saddles. I have no problem with the way that the bridge sounds. However, I prefer to have a bridge plate with cutaway sides or no sides, because it makes it easier for me to palm mute. That's part of the reason that I haven't bought a Tele in a decade or so, but it can be remedied by replacing the bridge plate.

The easiest solution would be to buy a cheap vintage-style baseplate with cutaway sides from Wilkerson or Tone Ninja, attach my current saddles and go to town. Is there anything about actual bridge plates that I need to play close attention to, or will anything do? Is it possible to buy a 4-screw bridge plate for a Tele that will not do the job properly?

My other option would be to get a modern-style bridge with no sides at all and 6 block saddles, for example a Fender standard bridge with the steel saddles costs about $20. Kluson also makes a fairly inexpensive one that has 6 modern-brass saddles. The advantage would be ease of setup, and a smoother, more open feel. Disadvantage is that it's less Tele-like. Are the sonics of the modern bridge plates that different?

I wouldn’t say the modern bridge is less tele-like at all. Millions of teles have left the factory sporting them, and they are a superior design for sure. It’s definitely less “vintage” Tele-like, but that’s fine with me as most modern features are definitive improvements over the original 50’s design.

Aesthetics should never come first. Doesn’t matter how a guitar looks if it doesn’t have the features that make it function the best for your style. Especially if the only people that will ever notice are other guitar players.

 

[Maggot]

I've owned an American Standard Tele and a few Teles with the classic bridges, and I did prefer the 6-saddle bridge, but this Tele has a raw vibe that I may be trying to preserve.

 

[Jakedog]

I've owned an American Standard Tele and a few Teles with the classic bridges, and I did prefer the 6-saddle bridge, but this Tele has a raw vibe that I may be trying to preserve.

You can always use the vintage bridge that’s there and grab a dremel and a cutting wheel and cut the bass side rail off. Then just finish with a grinding wheel to smooth it out.

 

[Wooly Fox]

Any number of aftermarket bridges out there, some very budget friendly, some high end with thick steel and "superior sustain".

Wilkinson or Gotoh bridges with the cut out probably the best option. Should be similar plate constitution and thickness to the CV plate.

 

[Tom Grattan]

If money is your main concern then just cut the sides off. I have Callaham complete bridge set up but the plate is available separately with the bottom/treble side cut off enough to alleviate your problem. Check it out: https://www.callahamguitars.com/tech_compatibility_tele.htm

 

[Freeman Keller]

Are the sonics of the modern bridge plates that different?

They are if you think they are.

 

[Maggot]

They are if you think there are.

I've never tried out two separate bridge plates on one guitar.

 

[RolandG]

Don’t forget that the bridge plate affect the magnetic field of the bridge pickup magnets, in the same way as a steel plate under the pickup does. Steel is more pronounced than brass, and a large plate more pronounced than a half plate.

 

[archetype]

Bridge Works has what you need. Cut-down plates in different styles, with Fender or aftermarket plates. Separate parts like plates, saddles, or complete assemblies.

They're closed for a few days:

Security Measure

www.ebay.com

 

[Shorty Medlock]

I found a heavy cast aluminum bridge online...cant remember where. Looked very nice.

Gotoh makes a thick heavy steel bridge IIRC.

 

[ChicknPickn]

I wouldn’t say the modern bridge is less tele-like at all. Millions of teles have left the factory sporting them, and they are a superior design for sure. It’s definitely less “vintage” Tele-like, but that’s fine with me as most modern features are definitive improvements over the original 50’s design.

Aesthetics should never come first. Doesn’t matter how a guitar looks if it doesn’t have the features that make it function the best for your style. Especially if the only people that will ever notice are other guitar players.

Sacrilege!

Actually, good on you for saying what I've thought since I took home my first Telecaster. Six saddles and a flat bridge plate for this player. And lots of chrome - - yum! And throw some extra poly on the body for me too, wouldja?

 

[Tarkus60]

This a hipshot bridge

 

[ChicknPickn]

Guitar Fetish modern bridges are great. Have installed several. From memory, they were less than $25 US, nice machining and chroming.

 

[Humbuckers]

I found a heavy cast aluminum bridge online...cant remember where. Looked very nice.

Gotoh makes a thick heavy steel bridge IIRC.

If you’re referring to their modern 6 saddle bridge, Gotoh’s is brass, not steel unfortunately.

I’d love to find a modern style bridge with a steel plate that fits vintage string spacing (the Fender Player/Standard bridge is steel but has too wide spacing).

 

[black_doug]

The “Fender Standard Bridge” has been changed by Fender more than once over the years, including the proportion of brass and steel for the bridge plate. For example, in 2008 the Am Std. tele got chromed brass plate, with pressed steel saddles. So there isn’t really any “modern standard”.

 

[pbenn]

Every batch of steel had its own recipe.

Try dropping competing bridge plates (unloaded) four inches to a table top.

Listen to the different ring.

For me, the US Fender OV plate is best, and it's cheap.

 

[Humbuckers]

The “Fender Standard Bridge” has been changed by Fender more than once over the years, including the proportion of brass and steel for the bridge plate. For example, in 2008 the Am Std. tele got chromed brass plate, with pressed steel saddles. So there isn’t really any “modern standard”.

To be clear, the Standard/Player bridge I’m referring to is the block saddle with steel plate bridge used on the Mexican made Player series Teles and their Standard series predecessors, not any of the American models.