Some more 1590A builds

zippofan

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Why do I do this to myself lol, tight fit.
pots and switch.jpg Top pots and switch.jpg
 

zippofan

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"Fat Boostered" mu amp with 3 NOS J201 JFETs, biased up nice and sounds good. Tight fit just to turn the knobs though, I think four is the limit for controls on one of these 1590A's! Now to come up with a decent decal, maybe an Austin Powers reference :D

top no decal.jpg circuit no power.jpg FatBoost out of box.jpg
 

zippofan

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Loud little thing, as clean or dirty as you like with plenty of tone control. Reminds me of the Timmy, I wonder why! (Circuit designed by Paul C.)
IMG_2087.jpg
 

zippofan

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@zippofan you are very productive, do you ever have time to play those things???? ;-)

Yes, though not as much as I should!
I have a little group of 1590A size pedals on the side of my work bench that can go to a few different amps including a 2W Zeppelin Percolator and a MOD 102+ tube amp, and also my ZT Lunchbox Jr and Hotone Mojo Diamond that I can just flip on at will, hook up and mess with a pedal I built (or groups of them!). I'm not very good at playing guitar so the pedals sometimes help with that too.

I just finished the second Rat build, so I hooked it up to test out of the box. It sounded ok, but not the same. Then I realized I had run out of small signal diodes (both 4148 and 914) which came from Small Bear while I was building the Fat Boost. I soldered two 1N914's in and there was the Rat I expected.

I had two decals left from the last one, used one and it started to smear. Thankfully the last one went on easy and seems to be drying well. If I could only justify the cost of a laser engraver I would get one, but I build one off pedals for relaxation.

Rat 2 Enclosure-no diodes.jpg
Rat 2 out of box on.jpg
 

zippofan

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Rocking with the Rat, though you can see I nicked the decal during assembly. Waterslides look cool but unless you're coating them in resin they're too delicate. Black printing especially, it smears and damages really easily. I usually put two coats of lacquer on them but it really doesn't seem to make much difference.

Rat 2 complete.jpg
 

zippofan

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I thought the Big Muff was crowded, the mini Klon is a whole 'nother level lol.

mini klon resistors.jpg

All sorts of resistor types here since the Klon uses some goofy values (392k and 422k). I had some tiny precision Vishay 1/4w in 1/8w form factor, Yageo 1/4w in small size, also some 4/10w values as Mouser was out of 1/8w. I'm glad the dimensions were nearly the same!
 

zippofan

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And some boards I ordered from TH Custom came this week from Germany. I figured weeks before I saw them, but it was ten days for international mail! Meantime, the Tayda order hasn't come from their US distributor yet which is understandable coming from Thailand. My Small Bear order has been bouncing around the center and south west of PA this past week, and the Love My Switches packet is somewhere between Portland and the east coast.

The boards are like all the other TH Custom circuits I've done, similar to other European PCBs, clearly marked and decent sized pads. One is a mini-Screamer to fit in a 1590A, another challenge :D The other with the IC is a 5-Band equalizer, using a Rohm Semiconductor BA3812L analog eq chip.

TH Custom boards Fall 2021.jpg

EQ center frequencies and Q are adjustable with capacitor values, I haven't thought of what I will do yet. I used pretty low-Q values for my 3-band parametric, which gives a pretty nice sweep of bandwidth around the center frequency. I think I'll do the same for this, but I'm not sure about center frequencies.

Equalizers have been fun to build and I think they're useful for playing around with tone. I want my son to try them when he's home for the holidays since he's been recording for a few years now, maybe he can record something.
 

zippofan

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Pots are wired, just need to connect the jacks, switch, and the biggest pain, the LED. Not much room and my 3mm LEDs have short legs so I usually solder a short length of wire between them and the board.
imp pots wired.jpg
 

zippofan

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This Klone has kicked my butt, when I finally got it in the box, no effect :mad:
My voltages were off on the op amps and I couldn’t find any opens or shorts but it was drawing more current than it should. I figured U2 since buffered bypass was fine. Nope, so I tried U1, nope. Took a break, went over the build docs, Google and finally I noticed a detail in one of Bean’s photos. Yep, sub board was backwards, I’m such a goof :( Took a lot of solder braid to fix that.
I had installed sockets when I pulled the TL072’s and I thought I was out of them so I had the same chips in that I used in my Aion build (LF353 and NE5532), which is a little bit different than stock, but luckily I had two 72’s left. It barely fits with the IC sockets.

If you want a real challenge, this is the one lol.
DBCED1F1-7C7F-4CA8-AFBA-F99CDD309491.jpeg

A little bit of size difference for the same circuit! 0C348238-6C30-452F-BCE5-CEE477D659CD.jpeg
 




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