Solder wire directly or use spade disconnects?

Discussion in 'Amp Tech Center' started by ColdEye, Sep 24, 2021.

  1. ColdEye

    ColdEye TDPRI Member

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    I have a Marshall Origin 20 Combo. I have had it for a while now and I want to change the speaker to a Creamback. Stock speakers use quick spade disconnects. If you had the choice, what would you do? Solder? Use the disconnects? Or is there a combination of both? I am not averse to doing soldering work, and I am also planning on making my own cables.
     
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  2. Larry F

    Larry F Doctor of Teleocity Vendor Member

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    Spades.
     
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  3. magicfingers99

    magicfingers99 Friend of Leo's

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    spade lug, it is 99.9995 as good as a soldered connection. and if you aren't a good solderer, it might be better.
     
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  4. ColdEye

    ColdEye TDPRI Member

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    Thanks, is .205" the standard size for the Celestion spades?
     
  5. dsutton24

    dsutton24 Doctor of Teleocity Ad Free Member

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    If you can solder well, then solder. If you can crimp a spade connector properly with a real crimping tool, it will work fine. That is if you've got a quality spade connector. Look for T&B or Ideal. Those things sold at the bargain 'tool' place are awful.

    I don't use crimped connectors anywhere unless I have to. I've chased way to many problems caused by them.
     
  6. magicfingers99

    magicfingers99 Friend of Leo's

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    buy a 5$ micrometer from harbor freight or amazon. its not terribely critical as far as tolerance and check your measurements. handy to have at least on or spend 25$ and get an electronic one.
     
  7. PhredE

    PhredE Tele-Afflicted

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    FWIW,

    I'm a solderer. I stewed over the decision when putting a speaker in a cabinet at least once. I figured it might be safer to orient the speaker so that the spades were on top (or nearly on top -- eg; to have the benefit of gravity to help hold some kind of contact should they loosen up somehow..) but, in the end, since I had the soldering iron and lots of solder.. well, 'the rest is history'. In the end, in most cases, it probably doesn't matter all that much.. I dunno.
     
  8. King Fan

    King Fan Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Factors I'd consider, not mentioned so far: Duration of installation, and degree to which soldering is quick and easy for you. If you're fairly sure you'll like and keep the speaker you're putting in, or if you're pretty quick and handy with a soldering iron, then solder is, well, solid. OTOH if you're on a never-ending speaker quest, want to try out 5 or 6 this week, want to A-B back and forth on each one, or tend to forget between infrequent uses which end of the soldering iron gets hot -- then spade connectors all the way.
     
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  9. 985plowboy

    985plowboy Poster Extraordinaire

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    Sometimes I wish it were all spade clips.
    Pickups, pots etc…
    Well maybe only a little bit.
    I’m a sour grapes bad solderer.
     
  10. Timbresmith1

    Timbresmith1 Tele-Afflicted

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    Us good solderers don’t usually charge that much.
     
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  11. Peegoo

    Peegoo Poster Extraordinaire

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    So it's YOU that's bringing down the prices for soldering services!

    :cool:

    Soldering speaker connections is the way to go. The only caveat is to use a clip-on heat sink on the terminal to prevent overheating the thing and possibly losing the tinsel connection to the voice coil. Not all are mechanically wrapped prior to soldering and they can fall out.

    Unless you're using a nice hot stick and you're fast on and fast off. Cooler sticks cook more components than hot ones do because it takes longer to make a connection with a cooler stick.

    Lay a paper towel on the back of the cone (if working flat) to keep solder and flux spats off the cone while you work.
     
  12. tubedude

    tubedude Tele-Meister

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    Solder. You'll never lose an output tranny from a dislodged spade.
     
  13. rdjones

    rdjones Tele-Meister

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    No, don't solder directly to the speaker terminal (spade) unless you really know what you're doing and there's a compelling reason to do so.
    The heat can transfer to the tinsel lead and it can come unsoldered from the backside of the terminal.

    If you are talking about soldering the wire to the connector (lug) at the end of the wiring harness, yes.
    On the Fender or Fender style crimped replacement speaker cables if the crimp on the connector looks at all questionable I pull them apart and solder them with a bit of heatstink over it as a strain relief.
     
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  14. dan40

    dan40 Friend of Leo's

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    .187 is the correct size.
     
  15. GAS Giant

    GAS Giant Tele-Meister

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    I have never had any problems with spade disconnects. Nice to not have to break out the soldering iron to try a few speakers out.
     
  16. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Solder solder and solder.
    Those are the only three methods I use and they always work without fail.
    Even swapping speakers over and over, they get soldered connections.
    If you’re a chronic and impatient speaker swapper, buy 100’ of lamp cord and a big bag of 1/4” plugs and solder to all of them.
    If you have one of those cheap amps with wires hanging out the bottom of the chassis, solder them to a jack on a bracket of some sort.

    I think if one chooses to work on gear with the least possible tools skills and effort, that’s just a lousy approach to working on stuff.
    Some don’t like them and dictate pencil irons for guitar gear, but I’ve used guns for like 45 years and can solder a task in less than a minute with no waiting for an iron the heat up.
     
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  17. telemnemonics

    telemnemonics Telefied Ad Free Member

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    But the little buzzing sound of a solder blob stuck in the back of the frame against the cone is so adorable!
     
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  18. King Fan

    King Fan Poster Extraordinaire Ad Free Member

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    Like I say, I'm a solder guy myself; I've never used a spade terminal on a speaker. And yeah, I recently posted somewhere here that I keep a soldered harness on all my speakers; I can rotate them even more easily than spade lugs.

    But in my annoying role of seeing both sides of an issue, I recall reading that *properly done* crimp joints can actually be preferred to solder. Not only cuz they're faster (can you imagine the cable guy at your house, or the ethernet guy at work, whipping out a solder gun instead of a crimper?) But also because they can be stronger *and* more solid electrically; the crimped metals actually form a "cold weld."

    Note I said "properly done" -- I'm not sure the cheap crimping tool I got at the hardware store and my non-bulging forearms are quite industrial grade... so when I do crimp (ring terminals on ground bolts, anyone?) I also solder over the crimped joint.
     
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  19. ColdEye

    ColdEye TDPRI Member

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    I have a WT-111M, what I do not have is the TB quick disconnects, seems they are discontinued. I just ordered some USA made QD, just waiting for it to arrive. Will solder just a tiny bit before I crimp and put some heat shrink.
     
  20. swervinbob

    swervinbob Friend of Leo's

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    Spades. But I work with electrical every day. I have quality tools and know how to crimp.

    Ive got a Strat that I bought a loaded pick guard for. I had moved and remembered my soldering stuff was still in a storage facility. Two small wire nuts later, I was off and running. It’s still like that. Just a tight fit in the cavity.
     
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