So I modded my SD-1 today

SixStringSlinger

Poster Extraordinaire
Joined
May 21, 2006
Posts
6,598
Location
Space
So I love fuzz. It's by no means the only kind of dirt I like to use, but it's probably the most fun and distinctive. However, the biggest wall of noise I could conjure would often still get lost among the instruments. I think it's less a volume thing and more an EQ thing. Having everything be massively distorted probably doesn't help either, despite being part of the point.

I was never into stacking dirt pedals, but in fiddling around I found that my fuzz pedals seem to like going into a Boss SD-1. The fuzzes held their own fine on chords and riffs, and the SD-1 helped keep the more sing-y, bendy stuff from getting lost. I'm sure this has to do with the SD-1's mid-bump more than anything.

So I decided to perform some mods on my SD-1, mostly ones mentioned in other threads here by @11 Gauge, to fine-tune it for this application. Here's how that went:

First I played with the stock pedal for a bit to get a feel for it. Absolutely nothing objectively wrong with it. It's classic pedal for a reason. The mid-bump can give it a slightly nasally, congested kind of sound, though I'm sure that's also very dependent on what else is going on in your rig.

So I decided to try the classic C6 mod: Find the capacitor labelled C6, and get rid of it. This is supposed to get rid of that congested tone, and it did. It wasn't very dramatic, but it was a "someone just took the blanket off my amp" kind of thing. So far so good.

Then I decided to change the cap at C5 to a higher value (I used .033uf) which, if I recall, serves to tweak the sweep of the tone pot. I also replaced the resistor at R6 with a 6.8k (per @cousinpaul 's suggestion) to let a little more bass come through. Both of these mods worked great.

However, this is were it gets interesting. At this point I was testing the pedal after my various fuzzes as well as on its own, and it no longer seemed to have the special middy something that made it work so well as a fuzz solo boost. So I did something crazy and decided to put the C6 cap back in.

Now we're talking. The bass comes trough, the treble is easy to tame or unleash as I please, and the mids are doing what they're there to do. I also added a 33pf cap in parallel with the diode at D4. I believe I did it before restoring the C6 cap, because @11 Gauge recommended doing so (as well as increasing the value of C5) in conjunction with the common C6 mod, but I can't recall now. In any case, it's not bothering me.

The pedal works in a very interesting way now when run after a fuzz. The Level and Tone controls work as you might expect. The Gain control has some effect ton volume, but itdoesn't seem to affect gain in this application, though that's probably because the gain on my fuzzes is already run high. What's interesting is that the Gain control also seems to work as a sort of secondary tone control.

Take my Fuzz Factory which, after I added a switch like that on the Fat Fuzz Factory, still tends to favor the higher end. When I use the SD-1 on it I set the Gain at about 50%, which doesn't affect the gain as I hear it but gives it more low end.

On the other hand, my Nano Big Muff can be kind of woofy and woolly on its own. So when I add the SD-1 I turn up the gain to add a little clarity.

It's as if the Gain control (at least from about 50%-100%) sets the low end while the Tone control fine-tunes the high end.

Again, I stress that this when I use it after a fuzz. On its own the SD-1 sounds like an SD-1, albeit with more bass and a more usable (for me) tone control.

One more thing: I tried putting another diode (D5 or D6, I'm not sure; whichever is physically farther from D4) on a switch so that I could toggle between symmetrical and asymmetrical clipping. It could be that I did it wrong (if so, please enlighten me) but I could not hear the slightest difference. Low gain, high gain, guitar volume up or down. So I took that out and put the diode back in on it's own.
 

Pokey Tele

Tele-Holic
Joined
May 14, 2023
Posts
550
Location
California
Sounds like some cool SD-1 mods! For the record you should list the final mods you went with so people can easily copy it. From your description (more bass, less nasally) I wish I could do those mods on the SD-1 ("Stupor OD") inside my HX Effects, which I still like anyway. I was just thinking how great it is to have so many OD and other pedal models at hand in the HXFX but one disadvantage is not being able to mod them (although sometimes they have popular mod versions as menu options).
 

D_Malone

Tele-Afflicted
Joined
Jul 28, 2018
Posts
1,577
Location
Detroit, MI
I have the Waza version of the SD-1 and I really like the custom mode. I don’t know how the topology differs, but custom mode has more bass (less nasally), and better clarity. Standard mode is the classic SD-1 and is also great, just like the original.
 

cousinpaul

Friend of Leo's
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Posts
4,553
Location
Nashville TN
You want to short D6 for for symmetrical clipping. Expect a slight loss of headroom

I cribbed a couple of ideas from the Zen Drive for my mod. You might try a 100pf cap across D4 instead of using C6. I like it a little better than C6 but YMMV. If you try it, solder the cap to D4's lugs on the solder side of the board. Don't let the cap's leads touch any other lugs. Should make your pedal a hair brighter.
 

SixStringSlinger

Poster Extraordinaire
Joined
May 21, 2006
Posts
6,598
Location
Space
You want to short D6 for for symmetrical clipping. Expect a slight loss of headroom

I cribbed a couple of ideas from the Zen Drive for my mod. You might try a 100pf cap across D4 instead of using C6. I like it a little better than C6 but YMMV. If you try it, solder the cap to D4's lugs on the solder side of the board. Don't let the cap's leads touch any other lugs. Should make your pedal a hair brighter.

Yeah, D6 is the one I put on a switch. I suppose I can try again (maybe the switch was faulty) but I discerned no difference whatsoever. Like I said, that surprised me. I don't expect the difference to be huge but I do figure it would be noticeable.

I didn't use C6 across D4, though I'm not sure off the top of my head what C6's value is so perhaps I effectively did that.

Question: Would changing the value of C6 have any discernible effect? And (perhaps) related, is there a way to change the nature of the mid-hump, be it making git more or less dramatic, or shifting where the hump actually happens?
 

SixStringSlinger

Poster Extraordinaire
Joined
May 21, 2006
Posts
6,598
Location
Space
Sounds like some cool SD-1 mods! For the record you should list the final mods you went with so people can easily copy it. From your description (more bass, less nasally) I wish I could do those mods on the SD-1 ("Stupor OD") inside my HX Effects, which I still like anyway. I was just thinking how great it is to have so many OD and other pedal models at hand in the HXFX but one disadvantage is not being able to mod them (although sometimes they have popular mod versions as menu options).

I did all the mods I described in my OP. The only ones that didn't stick were removing C6 (I put it back) and switching a diode in/out for asymmetrical/symmetrical switching (I just put the diode back where it was).

So it was really just replacing C5 and R6, as well as placing the small cap across D4.

And I just want to stress that the pedal now sounds less nasally because it's letting more bass through and it's a touch brighter. The mid-hump is still there, I guess it's just less dramatic in relation to the bass and treble. It's still got a little honk to it.
 

cousinpaul

Friend of Leo's
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Posts
4,553
Location
Nashville TN
Sorry, I didn't mean using C6 in D4's location. Rather, remove C6 and then put a 100pf cap across D4.

The mid hump is the result of cutting excess highs and lows. A Fulldrive uses 2.2k for R6 and .1uf for C3 which moves the filter threshold down to 300hz for stronger lows. Its one way to go but might defeat your purpose of enhancing your fuzz pedals. I'd probably ditch C6 with that mod in hopes of an overall flatter EQ.
 

chris m.

Doctor of Teleocity
Joined
Mar 25, 2003
Posts
11,265
Location
Santa Barbara, California
Sorry, I didn't mean using C6 in D4's location. Rather, remove C6 and then put a 100pf cap across D4.

The mid hump is the result of cutting excess highs and lows. A Fulldrive uses 2.2k for R6 and .1uf for C3 which moves the filter threshold down to 300hz for stronger lows. Its one way to go but might defeat your purpose of enhancing your fuzz pedals. I'd probably ditch C6 with that mod in hopes of an overall flatter EQ.
If it were possible to add a mini-switch to reduce the mid-hump for certain applications, I could see the value in that. But that mid-hump is what makes it such a fantastic pedal to kick on for playing lead, IMO. A more neutral EQ curve probably makes more sense for an "always on" O/D, while a mid-hump is often just the ticket for a great lead sound. That's what I found, anyway-- when I modded the SD1 according to what the cognoscenti on line recommend, I ended up losing the mojo that makes the SD1 so good for lead passages....YMMV and all that. Switchable modes would sort of give you two pedals for the price of one.
 

SixStringSlinger

Poster Extraordinaire
Joined
May 21, 2006
Posts
6,598
Location
Space
If it were possible to add a mini-switch to reduce the mid-hump for certain applications, I could see the value in that. But that mid-hump is what makes it such a fantastic pedal to kick on for playing lead, IMO. A more neutral EQ curve probably makes more sense for an "always on" O/D, while a mid-hump is often just the ticket for a great lead sound. That's what I found, anyway-- when I modded the SD1 according to what the cognoscenti on line recommend, I ended up losing the mojo that makes the SD1 so good for lead passages....YMMV and all that. Switchable modes would sort of give you two pedals for the price of one.

I think it might be cool to have an SD-1-type pedal with the MT-2's mid controls, where you can dial in the degree of boost/cut as well as the frequency where that boost/cut occurs.

Or I guess you could just use/mod an MT-2 so that it's useful at lower gain levels and take advantage of the great EQ control it offers.
 

11 Gauge

Doctor of Teleocity
Joined
Mar 21, 2003
Posts
13,398
Location
Near BWI Int'l
Sorry, I didn't mean using C6 in D4's location. Rather, remove C6 and then put a 100pf cap across D4.
The cap parallel to the clipping diodes forms a lowpass filter in conjunction with the (resistance of the) drive pot. So the more the drive pot is turned up, the lower the corner frequency of this lowpass filter goes.

If anyone typically runs the drive pot at higher settings, this is why I suggest a smaller value for this cap, of 22pF or 33pF, because the drive pot in the SD-1 is 1 meg, and you've got an add'l 33K of series resistance, too (for R5).

So, using a calculator like this, with the drive set to max, with a 33pF cap, the corner frequency is ~4.7KHz.

Also, the drive pot in the SD-1 is linear taper, so it should be around 500K at 12:00 (which will actually be ~533K because of the existence of R5), so that makes calculating the corner freq. at that setting kind of semi-accurate.

Anyway, I just wanted to point out that if you're using a 'bigger' value for this cap that you'll be rolling off lots of treble at higher drive settings. A 100pF cap with the drive set to 12:00 should make for a corner freq. of ~3KHz, which will definitely attenuate some high frequencies.
 

SixStringSlinger

Poster Extraordinaire
Joined
May 21, 2006
Posts
6,598
Location
Space
The cap parallel to the clipping diodes forms a lowpass filter in conjunction with the (resistance of the) drive pot. So the more the drive pot is turned up, the lower the corner frequency of this lowpass filter goes.

If anyone typically runs the drive pot at higher settings, this is why I suggest a smaller value for this cap, of 22pF or 33pF, because the drive pot in the SD-1 is 1 meg, and you've got an add'l 33K of series resistance, too (for R5).

So, using a calculator like this, with the drive set to max, with a 33pF cap, the corner frequency is ~4.7KHz.

Also, the drive pot in the SD-1 is linear taper, so it should be around 500K at 12:00 (which will actually be ~533K because of the existence of R5), so that makes calculating the corner freq. at that setting kind of semi-accurate.

Anyway, I just wanted to point out that if you're using a 'bigger' value for this cap that you'll be rolling off lots of treble at higher drive settings. A 100pF cap with the drive set to 12:00 should make for a corner freq. of ~3KHz, which will definitely attenuate some high frequencies.

So this would explain why I hear more bass (or at least the balance tilted toward bass) at higher gain settings?
 

11 Gauge

Doctor of Teleocity
Joined
Mar 21, 2003
Posts
13,398
Location
Near BWI Int'l
Or I guess you could just use/mod an MT-2 so that it's useful at lower gain levels and take advantage of the great EQ control it offers.
I spent a bit of time some years ago, reworking a MT-2 in this way. Mine now has what I would consider to be a more classic rock kind of gain range, and less severe clipping characteristics.

Having said that, IMO/IME there's kind of a limit as to how much gain you can drop from the MT-2, and the number of changes I had to make was kind of high. Also (IMO) the stock mid control with an MT-2 benefits from being re-worked, especially if you are reducing the gain, but it gets kind of subjective as to where it sounds best.

That's just my way of saying that modding a MT-2 is kind of a subjective rabbit's hole that you can fall in, so proceed with caution!
 

11 Gauge

Doctor of Teleocity
Joined
Mar 21, 2003
Posts
13,398
Location
Near BWI Int'l
So this would explain why I hear more bass (or at least the balance tilted toward bass) at higher gain settings?
Yes - the drive control is also a treble cut control, when the cap is there, and the corner frequency is low enough to audibly effect things.

A TS has a 51pF cap parallel to its diodes, and it has a 51K resistor in series with its drive/gain pot, which is 500K. So at max gain on a TS, the corner freq is ~5.7KHz, just for comparison's sake.
 

johnDH

Tele-Meister
Joined
Jun 24, 2016
Posts
468
Age
63
Location
Wilton NSW
Sd1's are great for modding, easiest on one old enough to have normal sizecomponents rsther than SMD. I got one as a project and analysed it and then worked out some mods. Written up here:


SD1 JHmods 020116_zpst782cyiv.gif


20160102_105309_resized_zpsztqigfgh-1.jpg
 

cousinpaul

Friend of Leo's
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Posts
4,553
Location
Nashville TN
Those look like some interesting mods. Any way you could provide a sound sample? I'm without a spare SD-1 to experiment on.
 

MountainWilliam

TDPRI Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2023
Posts
5
Age
46
Location
TN
Sd1's are great for modding, easiest on one old enough to have normal sizecomponents rsther than SMD. I got one as a project and analysed it and then worked out some mods. Written up here:


View attachment 1127700

View attachment 1127701
I'm admittedly component ignorant, and largely schematic illiterate, HOWEVER, I love the idea of this. I seen many sd-1 mod vids before. For the non-electricians among us, what do the mods you've installed do and what's your evaluation of the experiment, thus far?
 

johnDH

Tele-Meister
Joined
Jun 24, 2016
Posts
468
Age
63
Location
Wilton NSW
hi @MountainWilliam
Thanks for the message. I described it more in my old Marshall forum post linked above. But basically, my mods add some overall volume, add some bass and transparent high end clarity and then turning up the new gain knob, puts the tone back nearer to stock, being more mid-boosted. I like the results, but I'm sure that many people who really love a stock Sd-1 wouldn't agree!
 

cousinpaul

Friend of Leo's
Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Posts
4,553
Location
Nashville TN
There are a number of what I'd call transformative mods buried in the Stomp Box archives. Try doing a search for SD-1 into Eternity, or OCD, or Zen Drive, or Fulldrive, etc. 11 Gauge has contributed a lot these and they make great projects. Also, IMO, there's a lot to be learned, borrowing from successful designs.

My first mod was SD-1 to TS808. I was amazed that it worked. The next one was SD-1 into CJOD ...and I was hooked. More recently, a friend and I were looking for the lowest parts count, minimally invasive mods for common pedals. My SD-1 is down to 4 moves. He's probably got me skinned.
 
Top