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Slits/cracks in finish

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by Boomhauer, Jun 26, 2014.

  1. Boomhauer

    Boomhauer Friend of Leo's

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    So, I've got this old guitar (Ibanez GAX-somethingorother) that came to me with a quarter-size chip out of the finish on the edge. Being the crafty dude I am, I decided to sand it and repaint the thing. So, I sanded the body (120-150-180-220) down to the base coat, and proceeded to lacquer it up with some nice white car paint. Problem is, the color coat has some cracks and slits in the finish:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Now, I haven't touched the paint yet with sandpaper...my plan is to do several more coats of white punctuated by 220-400 and 6 or 800 grit sandpapers (then do clear, pearl, or metalflake on top, with grits from 800 to 2000). Do you think that these slits are something that can be sanded out, or am I totally hosed on this one?
     
  2. Speedy454

    Speedy454 Tele-Holic

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    just drop fill it and it will buff out.
     
  3. metecem

    metecem Friend of Leo's

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    Are you sure the paint you used and the one that was there are compatible? Was it completely clean before you touched it up? Looks like an incompatibility issue to me...
     
  4. harold h

    harold h Friend of Leo's

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    Doesnt look like the body was sanded enough prior to the paint.
     
  5. Boomhauer

    Boomhauer Friend of Leo's

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    The body had a thick poly finish on it, so I sanded through the colorcoat and revealed the transparent basecoat. The white is a Duplicolor lacquer. The finish isn't crinkling or orange-peeling like I've seen Duplicolor do with some base coats, it's just these weird little slits.

    They did seem to sand out after I hit the body with 220g sandpaper, and since I have at least 2 more sanding runs planned for the color coats, I'm fairly confident that I can buff 'em out (with a little help from a drop fill).
     
  6. Speedy454

    Speedy454 Tele-Holic

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    I actually hope you are kidding, like I was in my post.

    This thing needs to get hit with a 100 grit DA sander until it is back to bare wood and start again.

    Unless you are adding new meaning to "distressed"!
     
  7. Boomhauer

    Boomhauer Friend of Leo's

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    Ugh, not what I wanted to hear.

    Is there any good way to get that transparent polyurethane basecoat off from the wood?
     
  8. Tom Pettingill

    Tom Pettingill Tele-Holic

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    Good as in effective? ... yes, but as in easy? ... no.

    At this point some intimate time with the sander is about your best bet. My personal all around favorite sandpaper is the Norton's 3X - 100 grit. Its aggressive, but not as brutal as 60 or 80 that can leave some very deep scratches to deal with.

    .
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Boomhauer

    Boomhauer Friend of Leo's

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    So, I sanded everything down to at least the poly basecoat...That stuff's a *****, and I'm already rounding off the corners without cutting through the basecoat.

    Anyway, the first pic (the C-shaped slits) seem to be through the basecoat and into the wood itself. The second pic seemed to be the basecoat lifting away from the wood itself.
     
  10. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I'll betcha that you end up sanding down to the bare wood before you get it really nice; might as well bite the bullet and just do it. ;)

    I've done this with an '80's Ibby; I used an orbital sander for a lot of it, but it took several hours anyway.
     
  11. Rano Bass

    Rano Bass Tele-Holic

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    You dont need to go all the way to the wood IMO. Use some kind of sealer (behlen vinyl sealer, shellac, deft laquer sealer, etc) and then a lacquer high build primer (duplicolor has one) and then paint it again.
     
  12. Boomhauer

    Boomhauer Friend of Leo's

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    I've been using a handheld orbital sander. Got any tips on sanding around horns and other tight curves completely to the wood? Also, any tips on keeping the pockets and contours sharp would be greatly appreciated :D
     
  13. metecem

    metecem Friend of Leo's

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    Find some flexible slightly thick rubber or an eraser that bends. Your fingers are your best friends. Also some longer strips of narrow cut sandpaper works wonders when you use it as if you're polishing shoes...
     
  14. Jupiter

    Jupiter Telefied Ad Free Member

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    I taped sandpaper to this dowel.

    [​IMG]

    Used heavy leather gloves to cradle the end of it as it turned. That helped a lot. But the Roadstar II is basically a slab (no forearm or belly cuts); prolly quite a bit easier than the body you're working on.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. metecem

    metecem Friend of Leo's

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    Lets nor forget the good old spray can that fits many curves in an axe.
     
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