Should you "maintain" a truss rod?

[WilburBufferson]

Two part question here... I just bought a used Classic Player 72 Telecaster Deluxe (MIM) with the bullet truss rod. I brought a hex key to see if the rod still turned, and it does, but the action is quite stiff. This raised the question in my mind as to whether we should occasionally tighten/loosen the nut as a point of regular maintenance, i.e., to keep it from seizing up?

Part two: is there anything I can do to smooth out the action of the truss rod in my guitar? I guess that it's possible that the stiffness may be due to the rod binding in a snug or tight neck channel, but was curious if there is anything else to consider. Thanks guys!

 

[Addnine]

I might try Never Seize (I think they call it "Hardly Ever Seize" or something these days: lawyers). It'll last far longer than grease/oil, which might stain the wood anyway. Just don''t get it on anything porous: you'll NEVER get it out. It doesn't take much: a little tube'll last you a while.

Edit: They call it "Anti-seize." Just get the regular silver stuff, Aluminum-based as I recall. I use Permatex.

 

[Wallaby]

I've seen a recommendation for a little vaseline on a q-tip if you have the nut off, being careful to keep it where it belongs.

I suppose it wouldn't hurt to loosen and then re-tighten the adjusting nut periodically?

 

[teletail]

I never heard of anyone doing "maintenance" on a truss rod in 50 years of playing. If the truss rod turns, it turns. What is the benefit of it turning easier or harder? Just my 2 cents - if it aint broke, don't fix it.

 

[Peegoo]

The best stuff to lube a truss rod nut is paraffin, beeswax, or surfboard wax. It doesn't soak into wood and lasts forever.

That clicking/creaking sound you often hear when adjusting a rod is not the rod binding in the channel (it doesn't rotate); it's the adjustment nut fretting against the washer, or the washer fretting against the wood. This is due to the pressure created by the tension on the rod. A little wax rubbed on these surfaces solves the issue.

There is no reason to "maintain" the rod. The thing to maintain is the neck's relief.

If it starts to develop a forward bow, adjust the rod. The farther a forward bow progresses, the harder the recovery becomes.

 

[schmee]

Truss rods do strip in the nut, if there was a way to lube slightly it wouldn't be a bad idea. Those buried in the heel seem to be the usual suspects. Too loose a rod backs off on it's own sometimes. I find I have to reset some of mine once a year or so.

 

[Sea Devil]

I always loosen it a bit first before I tighten it so that the truss rod, nut, wood, and everything else settles into the position it "wants" to be in.

 

[Wallaby]

I am glad to learn this, thanks!

The best stuff to lube a truss rod nut is paraffin, beeswax, or surfboard wax. It doesn't soak into wood and lasts forever.

 

[schmee]

The best stuff to lube a truss rod nut is paraffin, beeswax, or surfboard wax. It doesn't soak into wood and lasts forever.

That clicking/creaking sound you often hear when adjusting a rod is not the rod binding in the channel (it doesn't rotate); it's the adjustment nut fretting against the washer, or the washer fretting against the wood. This is due to the pressure created by the tension on the rod. A little wax rubbed on these surfaces solves the issue.

There is no reason to "maintain" the rod. The thing to maintain is the neck's relief.

If it starts to develop a forward bow, adjust the rod. The farther a forward bow progresses, the harder the recovery becomes.

Some models have the rod rotate don't they?

 

[Peegoo]

Some models have the rod rotate don't they?

Some double-acting truss rods do.

Single acting truss rods are stationary and you turn the nut on one end.