Should I clear coat over pickguard material?

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by papaschtroumpf, Mar 29, 2020.

  1. papaschtroumpf

    papaschtroumpf Tele-Holic

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    One of my "signature move" is to have 2 tones headstocks.

    For my current build I want to "inlay" a piece of pickguard material to echo the pickguard in the headstock.

    I'm planning on routing it to "inlay" it on the edge.

    If I inlay it before painting, but the time I am done painting and applying the floss, the surface of the pickguard inlay will be recessed. Especially true because the rest of the headstock will be done in metal flake, so I'm planning on using a "glaze" spray over the metal flake

    One way to even it out would be to use the glaze over the entire headstock and burry the pickguard material in it.

    Anyone ever done that? I can do a test spray but I'm worried a out long term interaction between the headstock material and the clear glaze.

    IMG_20200329_162804.jpg
     
  2. Peegoo

    Peegoo Friend of Leo's

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    Any advice would be guessing, because we don't know what the material is.

    Best bet would be to make a small test piece to see if the finish reacts with the plastic. What is the "glaze" composed of?
     
  3. Danb541

    Danb541 Tele-Holic

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    Why does it need to be recessed, the pickgaurd isn't recessed.
    If it must be recessed, I'd make the route, then finish the headstock, then ad th pg material. You will want to make the route a little deeper than the pg thickness to Allow for the thickness of the Paint.
    Painting over the pg sounds risky
     
  4. EsquireOK

    EsquireOK Friend of Leo's

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    I think it'd look better without clear coat anyhow. I would just finish the head and then stick the plastic on at the end, using a double sided adhesive sheet.
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2020
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  5. papaschtroumpf

    papaschtroumpf Tele-Holic

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    Thanks all. I thought I mentioned the glaze, it's this rustoleum stuff (pic below). Not sure what's in it, but test over metallic flake looks good. It doesn't seem to eat at the PG after a few days but I'm worried about delayed/long term reaction.
    The PG is cheap 3 ply plastic from China. I think it will look better recessed, the piece is too thin to stand on top as compared to a PG, or at least that's how I feel about it currently.
    I'm always paranoid about routing after finish, but this may be the case to do it.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Freeman Keller

    Freeman Keller Friend of Leo's

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    I do a lot of pearl inlay and always do the routing before any finishing. With pearl and the thin finishes I use I just scrape it back level with the wood and shoot clear over it. On occasion when I have done a fairly thick finish (like color, not flake) I still scrape the color off the pearl, then shoot clear over that. Enough coats of clear (10 or 12 or so) and the ridge is pretty much gone. My finishes are always lacquer and I know from experience that it will go over the pearl without problems

    I don't know about your metal flake and I don't know about your plastic pick guard material - I would guess that it would scratch if you tried to sand or scrape it (that is why I scrape pearl, it doesn't leave sanding scratches). I think what I would do is inlay the plastic in the head but when your route the cavities leave them maybe 10 or 20 thou shallow so the plastic stands proud. Mask the pastic while you lay down the flake and then clear coat everything. Obviously test your clear on scrap with both your flake and your plastic.

    A friend does a lot of flake in auto type finishes - he is able to mask and make the transitions without a noticeable bump.

    IMG_3871.JPG
     
    Jim_in_PA likes this.
  7. DesmoDog

    DesmoDog Tele-Afflicted

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    I would think once the clear has set up there wouldn't be any more interaction. But I'm just guessing.

    I've heard about destroying graphics on bikes with a clearcoat when applying but never about it destroying anything after the fact.
     
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