Shorter saddle adjustement screws

[Peteurre]

Hi all!

I know this has been discussed before, and I have been through various threads, but I cannot seem to find a specific answer, so here goes:

I recently got a Jason Isbell sig. Tele, and the saddle adjustment screws are protruding a lot on especially the high and low E-strings, and digging into my hand. I only own one other Tele, a 1973, and the screws a just as protruding, however I think the 50 years of playing (and someone took care of the first 37 years for me) has made it just a tad more comfortable, but the Isbell is really painful. So I'm looking at getting some shorter screws (to avoid killing myself with belt sanders, files, lawnmowers or what ever you might suggest to shorten the screws), and I'm looking to buy within the EU. But the different measurements are giving me pause, and I'm afraid that I will end up getting screws that are too thin, and will not fit in the vintage style brass saddles.

So, I'm looking at a product online with these specs:

"Set of 12 saddle screws nickel plated steel.
Size 4-40" (= 2.84mm diameter) x 1/4" (= 6.35mm length).
Fits genuine Fender USA bridge saddles.
Will not fit Fender "ping" import bridges/saddles."

Will these fit in the vintage style brass saddles? Or are they for Strats? Or are the ones you would use for vintage style Strats and Teles actually the same? The fact that it is not a flat head screwdriver, but alen key is throwing me off a bit, as both my JI and 73 Tele have flat head screws...

All help will be greatly appreciated!

 

[Boreas]

Hi all!

I know this has been discussed before, and I have been through various threads, but I cannot seem to find a specific answer, so here goes:

I recently got a Jason Isbell sig. Tele, and the saddle adjustment screws are protruding a lot on especially the high and low E-strings, and digging into my hand. I only own one other Tele, a 1973, and the screws a just as protruding, however I think the 50 years of playing (and someone took care of the first 37 years for me) has made it just a tad more comfortable, but the Isbell is really painful. So I'm looking at getting some shorter screws (to avoid killing myself with belt sanders, files, lawnmowers or what ever you might suggest to shorten the screws), and I'm looking to buy within the EU. But the different measurements are giving me pause, and I'm afraid that I will end up getting screws that are too thin, and will not fit in the vintage style brass saddles.

So, I'm looking at a product online with these specs:

"Set of 12 saddle screws nickel plated steel.
Size 4-40" (= 2.84mm diameter) x 1/4" (= 6.35mm length).
Fits genuine Fender USA bridge saddles.
Will not fit Fender "ping" import bridges/saddles."

Will these fit in the vintage style brass saddles? Or are they for Strats? Or are the ones you would use for vintage style Strats and Teles actually the same? The fact that it is not a flat head screwdriver, but alen key is throwing me off a bit, as both my JI and 73 Tele have flat head screws...

All help will be greatly appreciated!

What will fit will typically depend on the where the bridge/saddles were manufactured. If the guitar is an import, you will likely need metric. If it is a US model, you will likely need US/SAE hardware.

BUT, if you want slot-head screws, you will likely need US measurements. Strat or Tele doesn't matter. Screws are screws.

WD Slot Head Saddle Height Adjustment Screws For Fender Basses Or Telecaster Guitars

WD® Slot Head Saddle Height Adjustment Screws For Fender® Basses Or Telecaster® GuitarsThese are height adjustment screws for American thread Fender® Telecaster guitar and Fender® basses. Length varies by application.Long: 7/16 in.Medium: 3/8 in.Short: 5/16 in.

www.wdmusic.com

 

[yegbert]

Thread specifications matter. Learn how to size machine screw threads on parts like these using a thread gauge or spare nuts and screws of known specs, and ideally how to cut or file/grind them to the length you need. If they are the factory ones, being the Fender brass vintage saddles with slotted drive heads, they are probably 6/32. I get those 6/32s from McMaster-Carr, and 4/40 and 3mm with socket heads from eBay dealer Monster Bolts. If you have a good (well stocked) hardware store locally, go there. Stock yourself with more of them than you think you’ll need if you do Fender guitar setups often. You won’t need any shorter than your shortest height saddles.

 

[Wallaby]

I know from unhappy experience that labeling the little bags/containers of my nuts and bolts inventory is incredibly important... :/

Really anything with specs that matter that also looks identical to other, out-of-spec items needs labeling. If I can get away with marking the item itself unobtrusively I do that too.

Great... now I'm the "labeling guy"

 

[Peteurre]

What will fit will typically depend on the where the bridge/saddles were manufactured. If the guitar is an import, you will likely need metric. If it is a US model, you will likely need US/SAE hardware.

BUT, if you want slot-head screws, you will likely need US measurements. Strat or Tele doesn't matter. Screws are screws.

Problem is, the JI sig. is made in Mexico, but when I took it to the luthier a few weeks ago, and told him that I almost bought a key for the truss rod that was supposed to fit MIM guitars, he grabbed a wrench and checked and said "made in US fits". So I'm kinda also suspecting that the brass saddles on this one will be the same as on MIA vintage models, but I could be wrong.
At the moment I don't have the tool to measure, but to me the height adjustment screws on the Tele saddles look bigger in diameter than the ones on my Custom Shop '56 Strat, and that's why I'm asking. I really don't care if it's slot-head screws or allen wrench, as long as they fit in the saddles. Maybe someone can shed some light on that. Are they the same? Because I find product that say "fits Fender" or "fits American made", but I'm wondering if yes, they fit a Strat and a 6-piece saddle Telecaster, but maybe not a vintage style barrel saddle?

 

[Boreas]

The guitar model the bridge goes on is immaterial - there are not Strat screws and Tele screws. The same screws are used in Fender saddles, but they can be either US or metric depending on saddle manufacturer. It all depends where the bridge is made. Very few bridges come with slotted screws, and I suspect NONE are metric. After all, they are supposed to be replicating VINTAGE parts. My Spidey sense tells me if your current screws are slot-head, the replacement slot-head screws I noted above will be a direct replacement. You could email WD first and confirm.

With hex-head Allen screws, you can often tell US vs metric by the key/wrench that fits the best. If a 1.5 mm fits better than a 0.050", you can usually assume the threads are also metric. However, with a worn wrench or buggered socket, this may not be accurate.

You could also remove one screw and take it to a local hardware store. Decent mom & pop hardware stores should sell them, but just as important, they have thread gauges in the Nuts & Bolts department that will determine whether you have metric or US threads. Once you know the size and thread you need, you can order them if the hardware store doesn't sell what you want. Often they only sell black anodized grub screws which will work, but likely won't match visually. You should remove one anyway to determine the length(s) you want to order. ALSO, your luthier can likely size them and sell you a few. He probably has a spare screw drawer.

I buy mine on Ammyzon from MonsterBolts. They are cheap! If they don't fit, I throw them on the big Pile O'Parts as I will certainly use them another day.

 

[telestratosonic]

Hi all!

I know this has been discussed before, and I have been through various threads, but I cannot seem to find a specific answer, so here goes:

I recently got a Jason Isbell sig. Tele, and the saddle adjustment screws are protruding a lot on especially the high and low E-strings, and digging into my hand. I only own one other Tele, a 1973, and the screws a just as protruding, however I think the 50 years of playing (and someone took care of the first 37 years for me) has made it just a tad more comfortable, but the Isbell is really painful. So I'm looking at getting some shorter screws (to avoid killing myself with belt sanders, files, lawnmowers or what ever you might suggest to shorten the screws), and I'm looking to buy within the EU. But the different measurements are giving me pause, and I'm afraid that I will end up getting screws that are too thin, and will not fit in the vintage style brass saddles.

So, I'm looking at a product online with these specs:

"Set of 12 saddle screws nickel plated steel.
Size 4-40" (= 2.84mm diameter) x 1/4" (= 6.35mm length).
Fits genuine Fender USA bridge saddles.
Will not fit Fender "ping" import bridges/saddles."

Will these fit in the vintage style brass saddles? Or are they for Strats? Or are the ones you would use for vintage style Strats and Teles actually the same? The fact that it is not a flat head screwdriver, but alen key is throwing me off a bit, as both my JI and 73 Tele have flat head screws...

All help will be greatly appreciated!

I had the same problem with the 2017 America Special you see here. All of them were too high and were making my life miserable.

After measuring the height of each screw, I removed one screw at a time, wrapped it in rag except for the end (the bottom - not the top end that was cutting into my hand) I wanted to shorten. Then I put it in my vice and cut it off with my hacksaw. I took about 1/8" (3mm) off each screw. I cleaned up the end with a file and put it back in the saddle. Then, on to the next screw.

Worked for me.

 

[LOSTVENTURE]

I had a Strat with this problem. The repair guy at Sam Ash already had a couple of sets of the shorter screws, and he installed them on my guitar on the spot. He told me that he's constantly being asked to do the same by many other players. Talk to your dealer if possible.

 

[Peegoo]

@Peteurre

When you get the setup perfectly dialed in, you can shorten the screws. Do not do this until the setup is done.

For the three intonation screws, make a little mark (Sharpie) on each protruding screw, about 1/8" from the saddle. Loosen the strings and remove the intonation screws. Cut the three screws shorter at the mark, and smooth/polish the cut end into nice hemisphere. Re-install them and zero the intonation. Problem solved.

You can do the same with the six little saddle height screws if they're protruding and sticking into your palm. In this case, measure each protrusion, but remove that exact dimension from the bottom of the screw--not the top. Keep them in order as you work (stick them to a piece of duct tape, etc.).

I do this operation by chucking each little grub screw in a small hand drill and running the drill while holding the end of the screw against a running grinder wheel. The smoother the wheel, the better. Finish each screw with a fine file (in the drill) to a little hemisphere shape, and then a little polish with some 400-grit emery paper (still in the drill).

Keep them in order as you work!

 

[teletimetx]

As is the custom, we encourage the do-it-yourself approach, even when your OP might indicate no interest in doing so.

Since it won’t cost anything, you can ask Fender about the specs here:

Contact Support - General Inquiries · Customer Self-Service

You can always post photos from your guitar of the saddles, so folks here can see the actual adjustment screws.

Without power tools available (what, you don’t have a lawnmower?) and being in Denmark also makes the process slightly different.

With a small bench vise and a rat tail file, you could do the job, using the sequence described above.

Or buy two sets.

 

[Freeman Keller]

If your screws have a 0.050 inch socket head then they are 4-40 sized and you can buy replacement set screws in about any length you want at a well equipped hardwared store. If they have the 1.5mm socket head I don't know what the size and thread is, sorry. Isn't the lack of standards nice?

If you are going to try to grind or file the screw to make is shorter, thread a 4-40 nut on the screw and grind below the nut, When you unscrew the nut it will chase the threads

 

[Wallaby]

Thank you! I'm storing this tip for later and toast your foresight and ingenuity, sir!

I have better success cutting off overlong bolts using a hacksaw or a cutting wheel, the bolt stays round rather than becoming deformed from using cutters. YMMV.

thread a 4-40 nut on the screw and grind below the nut, When you unscrew the nut it will chase the threads

 

[yegbert]

If target thread length allows; put two nuts on the screw, tighten them against each other, and grip those paired nuts in a vise (or in a pinch, vise grips). You can thereby minimize the risk of the gripping damaging the threads. And if you have a dremel, use a thin cutting disk in it to slice the unwanted threads off. That little disk reduces risk of the cutting damaging the threads. After that, remove the nuts and use the sandpaper-like edge of the cutting disk to smooth burs on the screw end the cutting left.

 

[Peteurre]

I ended up buying replacement screws, both genuine Fender parts, and some after market parts - they didn't fit. But, I also ordered a set of compensated brass saddles, which turned out to have shorter screws (plus I think the additional screws I bought will fit). After a bit of trussrod adjustment and string height adjustment, I don't even have to use the shorter screws.

These are the ones I got, and I'm a bit worried that the grooves will eat through strings and make them snap, but so far they seem to work great:

https://abm-guitarpartsshop.com/ABM...-Knobs-Ferrules/ABM-VCS::425.html?language=en

 

[58Bassman]

Problem is, the JI sig. is made in Mexico, but when I took it to the luthier a few weeks ago, and told him that I almost bought a key for the truss rod that was supposed to fit MIM guitars, he grabbed a wrench and checked and said "made in US fits". So I'm kinda also suspecting that the brass saddles on this one will be the same as on MIA vintage models, but I could be wrong.
At the moment I don't have the tool to measure, but to me the height adjustment screws on the Tele saddles look bigger in diameter than the ones on my Custom Shop '56 Strat, and that's why I'm asking. I really don't care if it's slot-head screws or allen wrench, as long as they fit in the saddles. Maybe someone can shed some light on that. Are they the same? Because I find product that say "fits Fender" or "fits American made", but I'm wondering if yes, they fit a Strat and a 6-piece saddle Telecaster, but maybe not a vintage style barrel saddle?

There's no reason the Mexican plant should source their own parts, so I would bet they're distributed to US and Mexican plants with the same specs.

Any fastener used in Asia can be spec'd to meet the same standards as US/Mexican built guitars. Hell, the dies and taps we buy here are made in China, they should be able to find something to make these with SAE tread.

 

[Frisco 57]

There is a excellent hardware store in my hometown that has a very good nut & bolt section. I've found shorter bridge height adjustment screws there.

 

[rze99]

Axecaster in the UK supply sets of shorter screws USA spec. That’s where I get mine.