Shielding with a coating instead of tape?

Lone_Poor_Boy

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I'm doing a kit soon and had seen someone recommend this stuff, or something similar, for shielding in the cavity etc. Any recommendations on this, or another coating type, over copper tape?

EDIT: I couldn't link for some reason so the product on Amazon is 'MG Chemicals 838AR-15ML Carbon Print (Conductive Paint) , 12 mL'

conductive paint.JPG
 

Boreas

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I'm doing a kit soon and had seen someone recommend this stuff, or something similar, for shielding in the cavity etc. Any recommendations on this, or another coating type, over copper tape?

EDIT: I couldn't link for some reason so the product on Amazon is 'MG Chemicals 838AR-15ML Carbon Print (Conductive Paint) , 12 mL'

View attachment 991338

I think you will be fine with it as long as you can get a good ground to your control plate. I have only used copper tape.
 

bobio

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Any particular reason you are looking at paint over tape?

I started out with StewMac shielding paint. Works great, just as effective as tape. The downside to me is the drying time. I can shield a guitar with tape in 30 minutes and be done. StewMac suggests 24 hours between coats for their shielding paint. The other benefit to tape is that you can solder to it rather than using screws to add grounds.

Comes down to preference, I have taped over every guitar I have that had conductive paint in it. Attached are pics of just some of my recent projects.
 

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Lone_Poor_Boy

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Any particular reason you are looking at paint over tape?

I started out with StewMac shielding paint. Works great, just as effective as tape. The downside to me is the drying time. I can shield a guitar with tape in 30 minutes and be done. StewMac suggests 24 hours between coats for their shielding paint. The other benefit to tape is that you can solder to it rather than using screws to add grounds.

Comes down to preference, I have taped over every guitar I have that had conductive paint in it. Attached are pics of just some of my recent projects.
Wait... ahem... so your shielding is supposed to be grounded? Does that basically mean connected to the bridge somehow?
 

fuzz guy

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Wait... ahem... so your shielding is supposed to be grounded? Does that basically mean connected to the bridge somehow?

Comnected to string ground, whether bridge or tailpiece.

Connected to any grounding point as they should all be connected to each other in some way. If the shielding isn't grounded then it can't do its job sending EMI to ground.
 

skradlee

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Wait... ahem... so your shielding is supposed to be grounded? Does that basically mean connected to the bridge somehow?
Well, technically, the electronics (not the shielding) need to be grounded, and you can ground them to the shielding tape. The shielding tape does need to have continuity throughout as well as a physical connection point to the underside of the pickguard (that is also shielded) to make a functioning faraday cage. You can see in bobio's pictures little square tabs of tape on the pickup routes that are doing what I described.
 

Lone_Poor_Boy

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Well, technically, the electronics (not the shielding) need to be grounded, and you can ground them to the shielding tape. The shielding tape does need to have continuity throughout as well as a physical connection point to the underside of the pickguard (that is also shielded) to make a functioning faraday cage. You can see in bobio's pictures little square tabs of tape on the pickup routes that are doing what I described.
Haha, I've probably forgotten more than I know but there's a good chance I did it wrong when I added shielding to my Strat when I put Bill Lawrence pickups in it 20 years ago.

I think I just assumed it 'blocked' hum waves ;)

Thanks for the feedback, all.

DSCN1948.JPG Bill Lawrence.jpg DSCN1960.JPG
 

Lone_Poor_Boy

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Any particular reason you are looking at paint over tape?

I started out with StewMac shielding paint. Works great, just as effective as tape. The downside to me is the drying time. I can shield a guitar with tape in 30 minutes and be done. StewMac suggests 24 hours between coats for their shielding paint. The other benefit to tape is that you can solder to it rather than using screws to add grounds.

Comes down to preference, I have taped over every guitar I have that had conductive paint in it. Attached are pics of just some of my recent projects.

Thanks for the feedback all. I would have never thought of, or thought you could, solder to the shielding tape.

As for why the coating, I was just curious.
 

Steve Holt

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Any particular reason you are looking at paint over tape?

I started out with StewMac shielding paint. Works great, just as effective as tape. The downside to me is the drying time. I can shield a guitar with tape in 30 minutes and be done. StewMac suggests 24 hours between coats for their shielding paint. The other benefit to tape is that you can solder to it rather than using screws to add grounds.

Comes down to preference, I have taped over every guitar I have that had conductive paint in it. Attached are pics of just some of my recent projects.

Gotta love a good shielding job!! Lately I've started connecting the various cavities with bare copper wire. There's no advantage, I just feel cool doing it 😅 although it is easy to sneak a thin piece of copper wire around and solder it in unobtrusively.


20210228_200130.jpg
20220523_233412.jpg


If you look carefully in this second one you can see a sneaky copper wire coming out with the pickup wires and fastening to that random screw.
 

_dave_

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My ‘21 Fender Player Plus came with conductive paint shielding from the factory. (MIM)
There is a wire screwed to ground from the paint in the control cavity. It came stock with noiseless pickups and was basically silent. I’ve replaced the PUs w/vintage style and while not silent, is very quiet with the paint and vintage style SC PUs.
I’ve read that some use the paint and tape over to complement each other for better shielding.



1654574127596.jpeg
 

Silverface

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Wait... ahem... so your shielding is supposed to be grounded? Does that basically mean connected to the bridge somehow?
Having spent 40+ years in the coatings industry:

Shielding paint presents appx 50% less external waves than 2.6 mil 3M copper self-adhesive tape.

You'd have to apply around 10 mils (dry) of pain - because not all of the thickness is shielding. MOST is the resin that binds the shielding pigment to the surface. And 10 mils is a LOT of coating, and a LONG time waiting between coats for full dry.

And Yes - ALL shielding must be electronically connected to the control plate (or shielding at the pots); the pots, all OTHER shielding; the bridge; and the tailpiece, if any.

Any metallic shielding or shielded paart NOT connected to ground becomes an antenna instead, pulling in RF or strong radio signals

Around here the tech's nightmare is hearing "KNX 1070 NEWS RADIO...".when a guitar is plugged in! The antenna is huge and about 4 miles fro 3 different part time and one full time tech shop!🤬
 

Lone_Poor_Boy

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Having spent 40+ years in the coatings industry:

Shielding paint presents appx 50% less external waves than 2.6 mil 3M copper self-adhesive tape.

You'd have to apply around 10 mils (dry) of pain - because not all of the thickness is shielding. MOST is the resin that binds the shielding pigment to the surface. And 10 mils is a LOT of coating, and a LONG time waiting between coats for full dry.

And Yes - ALL shielding must be electronically connected to the control plate (or shielding at the pots); the pots, all OTHER shielding; the bridge; and the tailpiece, if any.

Any metallic shielding or shielded paart NOT connected to ground becomes an antenna instead, pulling in RF or strong radio signals

Around here the tech's nightmare is hearing "KNX 1070 NEWS RADIO...".when a guitar is plugged in! The antenna is huge and about 4 miles fro 3 different part time and one full time tech shop!🤬

This makes sense. The amount of painted coating needed, given the 'fillers' in the coating.
 

Lone_Poor_Boy

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Connected to any grounding point as they should all be connected to each other in some way. If the shielding isn't grounded then it can't do its job sending EMI to ground.

I thought shielding just provided a metal shield, like my tin foil hat.

Note to Self: Ground tin foil hat!


EDIT: Those are some damn fine shielding pics you all posted.
 

NoTeleBob

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I came here just for this. *high-five*
The only drawback is that it's mighty hard to solder to aluminum foil, but a simple screw pinching a wire to the shielding does just fine.

Almost impossible in my experience. You can use a screw, or just a piece of tape to tape the wire to the shield.Probably only good for 10 years though, so if you want long term, go with the screw option.
 




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