The Teflon you would use on the drain wire would be something like this:
Just closing the loop, I got in my Belden 8451 and used it to take 5E3 signal way over and back to the ground switch hole. Excellent stuff, a real find where you need two conductors. As mentioned by these cable pros, the absence of a huge densely shielded braid like on the Canare 4-conductor mic cable makes this far easier to prep and ground.
View attachment 940738
FWIW the nominal 22ga conductors look and strip like 24ga — but they still have more conductor girth than the whisker in RG174, which in my experience is sufficient.
This will be my new 2-conductor go-to. Hmmm, do they make a 4-conductor version?
I use this same method with Mogami W2333. Works well.View attachment 937038
This is the way that I connect the ground lead to the metal braiding. Just solder a short piece of wire to the braid, fold it down beside the cable and slide a piece of heatshrink over it. It makes for a sturdy connection that also looks neat and clean.
NFB over mains wiring was my initial issue. Then I was trying to kill some hum that wouldn't go away no matter the wire dress i used. I haven't done it yet and may never do it, but some of the MV mods I've seen seem to dictate use of shielded cable.Just extended this topic..
Apart from the input to a faint preamp first stage, where else can shielded best add value?
I have seen it on NFB back from the speaker output to wherever it connects to the PI or easier stave cathodes.
Where is it overkill and just not needed at all?
That's some very tidy wiring, I'd be darned proud if mine looked like this. And, aren't those Jupiter caps nice, about $20 each? So, off the subject of wiring, I read something the other day that if you are reading the print on a (NOT electrolytic) cap left to right, then the right lead should be attached to positive the left to ground. Is that true? Does it really matter?LOL I hear ya, @Mongo Park . On a bad day, it's frustrating. I've had both stray-strand and melt-thru issues, for sure. On a regular day, it often isn't needed, either. On a good day, tho, *when* the stars align and you get into the flow, it's kinda fun, like nano-surgery.
What exact cable are you using? I like the 'real' RG-174, or for more conductors, Rob's suggested "Canare L-4E5C Mini-Star-Quad Microphone Cable", rubbery trivial-to-strip outer coat, easy-to-twist shield, rigid easy-to-strip inner layer. My results aren't pure eye candy, but they work.
View attachment 935189
So, off the subject of wiring, I read something the other day that if you are reading the print on a (NOT electrolytic) cap left to right, then the right lead should be attached to positive the left to ground. Is that true? Does it really matter?
I hate them! But unfortunately they are needed sometimes due to my ignorance in making a proper layoutI find shielded wire my least friendly part of amp making. It just doesn’t have the mojo I am looking for, the wires are dinky painfully small. One little hair like thread going astray and the whole thing is pooched. I’m not building a amp to go to Mars, weight reduction is minimal here. I’ve tried a few kinds but they seem to be much the same to me.
That is my rant and now back to regularly scheduled amp fun.