SG strap button screws

Discussion in 'Other Guitars, other instruments' started by sothoth, Jun 19, 2019.

  1. sothoth

    sothoth Tele-Holic Platinum Supporter

    Posts:
    736
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2010
    Location:
    Kepler-186f
    Anyone know the screw specs for the strap buttons on an SG? I know the neck is smaller than the body screw but don’t know if they’re #6 or #8 or what. I have an Ernie Ball and SD strap lock I want to install but the screws don’t quite fit so I want to buy some that fit the strap lock button.
     
  2. sothoth

    sothoth Tele-Holic Platinum Supporter

    Posts:
    736
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2010
    Location:
    Kepler-186f
    Closing the loop...

    The strap button screw at the heel is a #6 wood screw, 1” long, oval head, Phillips.

    The body button screw is a #8 wood screw, 1-1/4” long, oval head, Phillips.

    I wasn’t able to find oval head screws in anything but brass so I ordered flat head screws from McMaster. They required that I use a file to narrow down the head of the #8 screw so it would fit into the screw slot, and I had to drill the clearance hole slightly in the Ernie Ball button so the unthreaded part of the screw would clear it.

    I ordered slightly shorter versions of the screws for an Ernie ball strap lock because the stock SG buttons hold the screw between 1/4” and 1/2” higher than the EB buttons. The EB has a deeper hole to accommodate the locking pegs.

    What I ended up getting were #6, flat head, Phillips, 3/4” long and #8, flat head, Phillips, 7/8” long.

    More of a PITA than I expected but the threads are a perfect match and it is working great.

    McMaster part numbers for the shorter versions are 90294A198 (#8) and 90294A151 (#6). My local hardware store was sort of a letdown... but they did have the same screws in zinc or chromed brass for less than a box of 50 or 100 of the stainless screws cost from McMaster. That said, I have a special love of stainless hardware on guitars so I went with McMaster.

    I ground down the head of the #8 by putting the threaded part of the screw in my cordless drill (it clamped onto the unthreaded part of the shaft so the threads didn’t get damaged) and pressed my metal file against it until it was narrow enough. To open the clearance hole on the button I used painters tape to protect the finish and then held it with pliers up against a drill bit that was large enough for the shrew to fully clear. All in all, it took about 5 min :)

    Hope this info helps someone else in the future.
     
    LooseJack likes this.
  3. GeoB

    GeoB Tele-Holic

    Posts:
    725
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2012
    Location:
    Tidewater Virginia
    When ever I have to replace screws I dowel the old holes and retap. It just seems like the right thing to do.
     
  4. LooseJack

    LooseJack Tele-Meister

    Posts:
    462
    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2017
    Location:
    transit lounge
    kudos for posting the answer to your own question.

    my SGs have schaller straplocks and -whatever screws I had to hand at the time-.

    One even has one of these from a previous owner.

    [​IMG]
     
    MrGibbly and DonM like this.
  5. sothoth

    sothoth Tele-Holic Platinum Supporter

    Posts:
    736
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2010
    Location:
    Kepler-186f
    That’s just wrong
     
    hdvades and DonM like this.
  6. preactor

    preactor Tele-Holic

    Age:
    60
    Posts:
    544
    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2009
    Location:
    gainesville, ga
    Some serious tone plastic! Definitely vintage!;)
     
  7. sothoth

    sothoth Tele-Holic Platinum Supporter

    Posts:
    736
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2010
    Location:
    Kepler-186f
    Well, if it’s vintage it must be better, right?
     
    preactor likes this.
  8. studio1087

    studio1087 Telefied Silver Supporter

    Posts:
    23,802
    Joined:
    May 10, 2003
    Location:
    Near Milwaukee
    I install Schaller locks on all my SG's and I've never used the same screw size twice. I take a knife and split a wood barbeque skewer to the diameter of the hole in the guitar. I nearly fill the hole with wood. I then screw in the Schaller screw which is typically more slender than the previous screw. The strap pegs are then mounted firm as a rock. I've used Schallers for over 35 years and I've never had a strap peg loosen using this method. FWIW I take a Tele and an SG to every gig. My SG's get bumped around. No strap issues.

    They're great for guitars and you can have a nice cookout! :cool:

    [​IMG]
     
  9. sothoth

    sothoth Tele-Holic Platinum Supporter

    Posts:
    736
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2010
    Location:
    Kepler-186f
    Awesome!

    I have a slight aversion to taking this approach or using dowels and re-drilling. It's mostly because I've bought stuff on the used market where people have done this and done it poorly and I've had to do my own repair again later. So not to be overly cuckoo about it but my preference is to mod hardware rather than the guitar, and save the original hardware so I can revert it to stock or give it to a buyer if I part ways with the guitar at some point. This is of course all a matter of personal preference on how to handle it and realize my way of handling it probably works for some people but others will choose a different approach.
     
IMPORTANT: Treat everyone here with respect, no matter how difficult!
No sex, drug, political, religion or hate discussion permitted here.


  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.