crazydave911
Doctor of Teleocity
Reminiscent of the LP "pancake" bodies so reviled by the faithful that I think look neat 

Thanks, Dave. One of the wing stacks is about 1.5", while the other is about 1.25". So, I'll need to make them same thicknesses so the middle layers will visually line up. For the 1/4" I may re-saw off 3/16" and Wagner the surfaces flat. I may have to try to fire up the Shopsmith Jointer (4") and see if I can shave off the excess.I for one think it'll rock, especially with that maple top. Rock on!![]()
Just make sure you take it off equally, wouldn't want to ruin a potential " looker"Thanks, Dave. One of the wing stacks is about 1.5", while the other is about 1.25". So, I'll need to make them same thicknesses so the middle layers will visually line up. For the 1/4" I may re-saw off 3/16" and Wagner the surfaces flat. I may have to try to fire up the Shopsmith Jointer (4") and see if I can shave off the excess.
I will try, Dave. I'm more a blacksmith than a woodworker. I heat and beat to suit, then file & grind for the effects.Just make sure you take it off equally, wouldn't want to ruin a potential " looker"![]()
Kinda in my blood I guess for at least 3 generationsI will try, Dave. I'm more a blacksmith than a woodworker. I heat and beat to suit, then file & grind for the effects.
You are correct Dave. 1-2 degrees max. This is the single best justification for understanding slope of line algebra I can think of.A lot of the early SGs as Marty said had no neck/body angle, just a lot of overstand as Freeman calls it. Pretty sure 5 degrees is too much![]()
The ones I have from HF are plenty strongI tried to true up the edges of the wings to the neck slab, and decided I was close enough for this build. I am gluing it up as I write. The top surface appears to be consistently flat and flush; the back will need some planing. I do need better clamps as the cheap HF's are to limp - when I torque them up to pressure, the flimsy beams start to bow. Maybe Besseys are in my future.