SG-Neck Thru - Using up some wood in the shop

Engraver-60

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I just had the ambrosia maple planed to about 1/8" thick, and have the wings all glued up and clamped as I write. I probably need to check on them and scrape off the squeeze out and re-clamp over night. 1 step at a time. Hopefully forward. I had them all clamped and wrapped in wax paper, and now they're scraped and clamped in the end vise on the Sjobergs bench, with a few other clamps to help.
 

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Engraver-60

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I for one think it'll rock, especially with that maple top. Rock on! 🤣
Thanks, Dave. One of the wing stacks is about 1.5", while the other is about 1.25". So, I'll need to make them same thicknesses so the middle layers will visually line up. For the 1/4" I may re-saw off 3/16" and Wagner the surfaces flat. I may have to try to fire up the Shopsmith Jointer (4") and see if I can shave off the excess.
 

crazydave911

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Thanks, Dave. One of the wing stacks is about 1.5", while the other is about 1.25". So, I'll need to make them same thicknesses so the middle layers will visually line up. For the 1/4" I may re-saw off 3/16" and Wagner the surfaces flat. I may have to try to fire up the Shopsmith Jointer (4") and see if I can shave off the excess.
Just make sure you take it off equally, wouldn't want to ruin a potential " looker" 😀
 

Engraver-60

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I just finished hand planing the edges of the laminated wings where they will joint to the neck-thru slab;

0406222043_Burst01.jpg

then made a couple of 1/2" x 1" wide x 6" long plywood splines to aid in alignment and strength. Then I sprayed 3M #77 Contact Cement (that I bought in 1970, it amazes me it's still works and sprays) to a piece of 1/4" Masonite and the paper full size SG body template, and cut it out and sanded to the line. That should be the MASTER template, so I'll scrounge up either some MDF or plywood for the working templates.
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The two wings aren't the same thickness, so something is going to have to be shaved down. 1 step at a time (in a 12-step program).
 
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Newbcaster

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A lot of the early SGs as Marty said had no neck/body angle, just a lot of overstand as Freeman calls it. Pretty sure 5 degrees is too much 🤨
You are correct Dave. 1-2 degrees max. This is the single best justification for understanding slope of line algebra I can think of.

Set necks and neck thrus and even one piece guitars need NO neck angle necessarily. It's a guitar. Look at Fender. No angle. :)
 

Engraver-60

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Seems went it rains it pours. I was making a hollow form of silver maple on the lathe, and now that's a funnel. I cut the lawn, and hit a tree root, and killed the blades. The router table is stacked with stuff, so I did not dare try to do guitar stuff, and have that be crap too. I did cut a piece of 3/16" CR Steel rod and 3/8" diameter for the truss rod making. I also determined the rod would be about 3/4" shorter to not run into the step down of the neck slab. Maybe tomorrow after work I can drill and tap and make the TR.
 

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I did make the truss rod, and the anchor. The anchor was a troublesome booger. My drill press vise is buried under so much stuff on my bench I did not even try to dig it out. So, I drilled with my Porter Cable hand drill, and I could not get a good bite with the tap. After scrapping 2 tries, I cut one blank slug and took it to work with the tap, and used the drill press in the model shop. I dug around in my LP Parts box, and found tiny bags of 10 each brass nuts and spiked D washers. I watched Tchiks video of him making a neck thru guitar, and he did not spline the wings. I think that'll be a step that I can forget.

 
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Engraver-60

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I had made the truss rod, and the anchor, so today I cut the trench in the neck slab. A bit ragged but no one will see it except on this blog.
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I don't have a 3/16" diameter round nose bit, so 1/4" diameter will have to suffice until the next build.
 

Engraver-60

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I made a maple filler strip yesterday, and an under the fretboard extension this morning. My back is so out of whack today, I may have to go easy on any woodworking. I'd like to at least layout the wings and rough cut them, so I can glue them on flush to the top surface of that portion of the neck slab.
 

Engraver-60

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I used the Shopsmith as a horizontal drill to cut the counterbore for the truss rod nut and D washer. I had boogered the route so badly, I ended up cutting a mahogany spacer washer and a groove so the D washer will have something to seat against. It's being glued in now. 0416221528.jpg
 

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Engraver-60

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OK - I made the commitment - I have rough cut out the wings. EEEKK!!! A little bit too short on the upper horn, so I an grafting on a piece from the horn cut out to make the point. No structural biggy - the top cap will hold all of the pieces of the puzzle together. Photos later after the glue cures, and I cut out the point.

BTW - Having this Craftsman 14" Professional Bandsaw is really a joy. It make everything easier than the 11" Shopsmith Bandsaw.
 
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Engraver-60

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Point graft was successful. I did notice that in the course of making the neck region, somehow I've managed to move the neck fretboard towards the body about a 1/2". So, the location of the pickup routes and the bridge and stopbar tailpiece will all have to move towards the butt end also. I will wait until after the fretboard is glued on to determine where the scale length (hence the bridge and tailpiece) should be located. The pickup routes also will need to have template modifications. Another no biggy. Just Customization for what will be a unique wall hanger. 0417220820a.jpg 0417220839.jpg
 

Engraver-60

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I tried to true up the edges of the wings to the neck slab, and decided I was close enough for this build. I am gluing it up as I write. The top surface appears to be consistently flat and flush; the back will need some planing. I do need better clamps as the cheap HF's are to limp - when I torque them up to pressure, the flimsy beams start to bow. Maybe Besseys are in my future.
 

crazydave911

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I tried to true up the edges of the wings to the neck slab, and decided I was close enough for this build. I am gluing it up as I write. The top surface appears to be consistently flat and flush; the back will need some planing. I do need better clamps as the cheap HF's are to limp - when I torque them up to pressure, the flimsy beams start to bow. Maybe Besseys are in my future.
The ones I have from HF are plenty strong
 

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Engraver-60

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I have a couple of the same ones, Dave, and over the longer spans the beams start to bow. They do have box beams styles at HF, I might have to buy a couple to try them out.
 




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