Sealing Rosewood Fretboard Edges with Superglue

Discussion in 'Finely Finished' started by 017_017, Nov 27, 2013.

  1. 017_017

    017_017 Friend of Leo's

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    Hi,

    In a few months I plan on finishing a rosewood fingerboard neck, using Minwax's Wipe On Polyurethane. As many of you know, this finish and many others do not cure over rosewood.

    Has anyone used superglue/cyanoacrylate for the purposes of sealing rosewood fingerboard edges, and if so, has anyone noticed it turning white and powdery over time beneath a polyurethane finish?

    Thanks.
     
  2. spauldingrules

    spauldingrules Tele-Holic

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    Don't finish the rosewood.
     
  3. francomanca

    francomanca Tele-Meister

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    Or check Brian May (Queen) guitar history ....fingerboard was coated ...but maybe was ebony....but rosewood normally gets some oil treatment for cleaning and nourishment ....
    Anyway...is rosewood a slightly oily wood?
     
  4. Vizcaster

    Vizcaster Poster Extraordinaire

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    If you can mask off, and scrape later, don't put any finish on the side/edge of the rosewood fingerboard. On un-bound rosewood acoustic fretboards even nitrocellulose lacquer can chip or come loose from the rosewood. So yeah, I'd be investigating a good sealer for the rosewood edge - since obviously you don't want to abandon the plan to use a budget DIY big-box store brand cheap crappo brand of wiping varnish. Don't mean to be harsh, but really, there are so many other products you could use.
     
  5. 017_017

    017_017 Friend of Leo's

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    Not the fretboard surface; only the sides. The fretboard surface will remain unfinished. All Fender rosewood necks I've seen have the finish extending up the sides.

    Will do. Apparently rosewood (and other tropical/oily timbers) have an antioxidant in them preventing polymerising finishes from curing. Shellac and nitrocellulose seem fine, as they "cure" solely through solvent evaporation.
     
  6. SixShooter

    SixShooter Friend of Leo's

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    I have used Tru Oil on the sides of rosewood fretboards with no problems.
     
  7. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

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    From what I read you can blue rosewood with CA as long as you wipe it down with mineral spirits first, don't see why you can not coat it after you wipe it down.

    Got to run out to HD now, going to pick up some budget DIY big-box store brand cheap crappo brand of wiping varnish. Hopefully I can get my guitar ready to play before Christmas.
     
  8. 017_017

    017_017 Friend of Leo's

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    Is that another dig at me, or sarcasm?

    Either way, I've decided what I'll be doing, but will be keeping it to myself. Ironically, it was Vizcaster's outburst helped me a great deal in this decision. So, I guess I should say thanks to Vizcaster.

    Again, thanks to those who offered genuine advice.
     
  9. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

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    No, I actually just picked up some Minwax satin wipe-on poly. If I had a heated spray booth and time to let the guitar sit for a month I might have gone for nitro. But since the guitar was made with crappola wood and has a few cosmetic irregularities I am going satin.
     
  10. ezas

    ezas TDPRI Member

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    I hate to hear that (that it doesn't cure) because I have wipe on oil based poly on two necks with rosewood fretboards.

    It never even occurred to me that it wouldn't 'cure'. I'd never seen that mentioned in any thread about finishing a neck. I did kind of a feathered edge. So the poly gets thinner as it gets closer to the frets to where you can see just a bit of grain about the depth of the fret tangs. Not sure if that thinner layer would matter with regard to curing.

    I have one of the necks in my hands, it just happens to be off the guitar, and pressing with my thumbnail I can find nothing that suggests that it's any less hard than the back of the neck.
     
  11. BartS

    BartS Friend of Leo's

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    This thread seems like bait, but I will bite. I use minwax clears and I'll use and stand by them anyday. Infact a lot of days I stand on them. If you can't get minwax clear to dry, stick or cure on something you must of done something wrong.

    Most of the time all you have to do its be smart enough to follow the directions on the back of the can.

    People don't normally finish the rosewood. I just read it has some oils in it that prevent oils from drying or at least drying quickly. If you still want to I read you can use some type of sealer then poly it though. I would tape it off and just finish the back of the neck but that's me and seems more of a taste thing to me.

    I have used minwax lacquer and it doesn't get sticky when hot or humid and it doesn't rub off on guitar stands. I have used minwax poly and 24 hours after appied I can jump up and down and run wind sprints on it. Maybe after 20 years of foot traffic you might have to do a bit more than use some polish on it but when was the last time your guitar has seen 20 years of foot traffic.
     
  12. SixShooter

    SixShooter Friend of Leo's

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    Fine Woodworking did a comparison study of wipe-on varnishes a few years ago and found Minwax wipe-on poly to be one of the best.
     
  13. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

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    Maybe should have gone gloss as it pops out the grain more. Sure I can live with the satin though.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Engraver-60

    Engraver-60 Friend of Leo's

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    Thtat is just plain beautiful, and what a great photo. Inspirational.
     
  15. printer2

    printer2 Poster Extraordinaire

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    The grain would have popped out much more with gloss, just too many flaws in the guitar for me to draw attention to them.
     
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