Sealer for Transtint + Spraymax 2k

[AndrewG214]

I am getting ready to start finishing a flame maple body and intend to use Transtint to dye the body before using Spraymax 2k as the clear. Do I need to use a sealer before shooting the Spraymax, and if so, any recommendations on what sealer to use? I haven’t used any 2k urethanes before (yes, I have Proper PPE). In searching the forums it seems like people use sealers with paint, and use tinted sealers and tint coats with 2k urethanes, but I haven’t found any info on 2k urethane over dye applied directly to the wood. Any guidance is greatly appreciated!

 

[Freeman Keller]

My only experience is with nitro over my stains and I always seal with a couple of coats of vinyl lacquer sealer. The one time I didn't use sealer on a maple body I did get some finish chipping when I drilled screw holes for a strap button.

I've never shot catalyzed finish so no advice, but I'd love to see your guitar when its done.

 

[Silverface]

Do I need to use a sealer before shooting the Spraymax, and if so, any recommendations on what sealer to use? I haven’t used any 2k urethanes before (yes, I have Proper PPE).

You should ALWAYS do test applications on scrap wood until you get the results you want.

For your test applications, prepare the scrap maple, asply sanding sealer to the bare, prepared scrap maple; sand it until it loos like bare wood (it WILL be properly sealed just enough to allow controlled penetration of the dye); apply the dye, wiping areas with solvent that start to go too dark (the sealer increases the open time so you can do this); apply another light coat of sanding sealer, but sand it lightly just to smooth the surface; then apply your clear.

Again, that's ONLY for the test applications - and test applications are specifically so you can fine tune the process, as you may have to alter things on the actual neck.

Which is WHY you do test applications - so you don't end up with non-reversible, blotchy mess.

Good luck.

 

[AndrewG214]

You should ALWAYS do test applications on scrap wood until you get the results you want.

Absolutely! My test piece is already dyed. I was hoping to tap the collective knowledge here to see if anyone else had done this before I catalyzed the can of 2k and discovered that I needed to seal the body and wasted a can. Thank you for the reply!

 

[Silverface]

I was hoping to tap the collective knowledge here to see if anyone else had done this before I catalyzed the can of 2k and discovered that I needed to seal the body and wasted a can.

Honesty - you should have wasted a can ....or 2, 3, 4 cans (or partials if possible) and applied the ENTIRE system on scrap.

Most of he failures of catalyzed products I inspected during my years in tech support turned out to be "pilot error" - not applying a full test system...even 10 of them...until the applicator understood the system and could get the proper results.

I've personally discarded thousands of dollars of products doing tests. It goes with the the territory.

 

[AndrewG214]

Honesty - you should have wasted a can ....or 2, 3, 4 cans (or partials if possible) and applied the ENTIRE system on scrap.

Most of he failures of catalyzed products I inspected during my years in tech support turned out to be "pilot error" - not applying a full test system...even 10 of them...until the applicator understood the system and could get the proper results.

I've personally discarded thousands of dollars of products doing tests. It goes with the the territory.

I have applied the entire system on scrap…up to the 2k. I just haven’t hit that point yet. I just dyed the sample piece today and am allowing it to dry over night. I never said I wasn’t going to test it, but if someone else had already learned the lesson that it wouldn’t work without a sealer, I wouldn’t bother testing it over the bare dyed test piece until I procured a compatible sealer.

 

[old wrench]

I've used SprayMax 2K Glamour Gloss over a few different substrates - acrylic enamel, lacquer, large water-slide decals, mainly motorcycle stuff, but not over plain dyed Maple wood

You might not have any problems applying it over what is basically bare wood since Maple is pretty hard and dense, but if you have any doubt (and to be on the safe side), you could always apply a coat of something quick and simple like Zinssers canned shellac first - in fact, that would be so easy to do, I don't know why you wouldn't - you could just brush a coat or two on and then after it dries sand it lightly with 400 grit and be ready to spray

I've always started out with a very light first coat of SprayMax - like a mist coat - followed by a couple of light coats, before applying any full wet coats

Never had any problems with it, even over large water-slide decals - and it stuck very well to everything I've used it on

It's probably one of the nicest finishes to spray that I've ever applied that came out of an aerosol can - real good pressure and a superior nozzle, and as long as the temperature and humidity is right, it sprays out very nice - but as you've noted, proper PPE is a must with this stuff, it's the real 2K deal

It really gets hard too - I've always waited 48 hours to buff it out, but I know some folks buff it out the next day

I know there are a few threads on this forum where other members have used SprayMax as a guitar finish with very nice looking results

Once you punch that button in on the bottom of the can and release the catalyst you have about 24 hours to use up the can -

If you have a lengthy intermission in your spray session, you can stick the can in the refrigerator to retard it, but don't forget to warm the can back up before resuming spraying


edit - just be careful applying Zinssers over your dyed wood - Zinssers is alcohol-based and TransTint is alcohol and water soluble


.

 

[Silverface]

I have applied the entire system on scrap…up to the 2k. I just haven’t hit that point yet. I just dyed the sample piece today and am allowing it to dry over night. I never said I wasn’t going to test it, but if someone else had already learned the lesson that it wouldn’t work without a sealer, I wouldn’t bother testing it over the bare dyed test piece until I procured a compatible sealer.

Great!

It just wasn't clear in the thread that you were doing test samples first.

 

[bassplayer82]

OP: how did you open your Transtint bottle? Just got mine. Am I supposed to snip the tip of the white top? Wondering if this would create too big a hole for the dye to come out of the bottle. I’m just looking to put a few drops in DNA.

Edit: problem solved with a clothespin.