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Screw tear-out on pine body?

Discussion in 'Tele-Technical' started by dmarcus30, Jan 2, 2017.

  1. dmarcus30

    dmarcus30 Tele-Holic

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    Thinking of using an unfinished well-aged/dried pine body for the next build. Can someone with experience answer:
    1) Is pine prone to screws tearing because of the relative softness of pine as compared to ash or alder?

    2) If the body is Q-sawn, will that aid stability of hardware?

    3) Can a pine body take a simple tung oil finish well?

    Many thanks, folks, I depend mightily on your superior knowledge and always interesting points of view.
     
  2. harold h

    harold h Friend of Leo's

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    Just soak in thin superglue into the holes and it makes it very
    hard and it holds screws better.
     
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  3. robt57

    robt57 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    Don't use your 12-18 volt driver unless you have the clutch set loose loose loose.

    I just do it all by hand on soft wood. And 1/4 sawn presents it own set of issues with drill bit and screws walking, and screws striping the wood out between the sap/rings.

    Try getting fret tangs to cooperate in one piece 1/4 sawn necks if not very hard/wood.

    Ask me how I know that? No, don't. #Still_Learning...
     
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  4. Artslap

    Artslap Tele-Afflicted

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    Use actual bolts and threaded insets into the neck heel.

    CP.
     
  5. robt57

    robt57 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    It is not a pine neck...o_O:confused:o_O
     
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  6. trev333

    trev333 Telefied Ad Free Member

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    If the pine is old and hard it will hold screws OK.... remember there's lots of different "Pine"...

    3-5 1" bridge screws into most woods ain't going anywhere..... most body screws only need a light hand tightening ... PG and control plates...

    this bridge hasn't got loose in 5 yrs.. and the screws didn't need tightening when I tried recently....

    pine dints2.JPG
     
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  7. Mike Simpson

    Mike Simpson Doctor of Teleocity

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    I have built 4 guitars with pine bodies and I have never had any problems with screws holding.

    Don't use screws that are too short.
    Drill the correct size pilot hole for all screws.
    Put beeswax on the screws and don't over tighten them.
     
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  8. awasson

    awasson Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    As long as you pre drill and hand drive the screws, it shouldn't be a problem.

    The only areas I even gave a second thought to are the strap buttons. For those, I pre drilled. Then I hand tightened all the way in, removed the screw, squirted in a small amount of wood glue and then screwed the screw 90% in. After a day allowing the glue to set, I hand tightened to 100%. I do that with the strap buttons on all of my guitars now.
     
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  9. boris bubbanov

    boris bubbanov Tele Axpert Ad Free Member

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    Too many kinds of pine, in various states of maturation. I would hand drill and hand tighten to offer more control.

    Agree with Robt57 that q-sawing creates its own set of frustrations.
     
  10. Tony Done

    Tony Done Friend of Leo's

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    I've used pine for cabinet work, and IIRC, the end grain tends to go dark if the finish soaks in. I would experiment on some off-cuts before using an oil type finish.

    I harden screw holes in soft timber with superglue, as suggest by harold h.
     
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  11. awasson

    awasson Poster Extraordinaire Silver Supporter

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    I just pulled the control plate from the pine guitar in my avatar for perhaps the 100th time since I built it and while I was doing so, I thought of this discussion. I didn't harden the holes for the pick guard or the control plate with anything but as I was tightening the screws, it occurred to me that they still had plenty of bite and providing I don't do anything stupid like over torque them, they should be just fine.

    Mine is kiln dried, furniture grade but still extremely soft pine. Since I put the wipe on poly finish, about 9 months ago, I've kept it in the living room unless I've got it plugged in. It seems to have fared reasonably well but it has a mystery dent near the end bout that indicates how just soft the wood is.

    The reason I've had the controls out of the guitar so often is because I've been chasing tone (and I'm nearly there). In my quest, I've had at least 4 sets of pickups and a variety of different controls and wiring schemes. I've had at least 4 different volume pots, two different tones pots, I'm on my 3rd selector switch and countless wiring configurations for in/out phase, series parallel, etc... If anything, it's proven how resilient the pine is for having the screws in and out. I'd highly recommend hardening the holes for the strap pins and if I had a top loader bridge, I'd want the mounting holes hardened too but everything else seems to be quite capable.
     
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  12. Widerange Hum

    Widerange Hum Tele-Holic

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    +1, same experience here. I drill just a very slightly smaller pilot hole in pine than I do in other woods.
     
  13. dmarcus30

    dmarcus30 Tele-Holic

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    Thanks, TDPRI folks KNOW what's what.
     
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