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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by MM73, Feb 26, 2015.
Do not listen to this suggestion.
Start another two.
HAHA!...you're welcome...at least I can take credit for sending other people down the road of insanity!!!!
One flat sawn, one quarter sawn.
Glad you didn't ask for three, these two are all I've got on hand so far!
My wife just shakes her head when she sees me sanding stuff.
Count me as one of them! Thanks Ed! As far as I know there's no cure...
My pleasure... It's the best pastime there is!!
Been a fairly good weekend for humble-pie-caster in that the progress made resulted in no major mistakes
My first attempt at wet sanding swelled the wood and cracked the finish. Even after respraying lacquer, deep furrows remained. The pics are a couple post back.
Prior to wet sanding again, I tried my hand at repairing the furrows in the finish (which I figured would be likely to crack again).
I filled the furrows with Loctite 4G gel control superglue, and wiped it level with a plastic putty knife.
Waited a couple minutes, then started wet sanding.
This time, I filled my string thru holes with plumbers putty.
Started at 400 grit, then moved to 1800 micromesh, and on thru 12,000 micromesh.
No water damage this time
Moved on to string ferrule install.
I'd been having a run of bad luck trying to get this finish work done, so consoled myself by buying the Stewmac sting ferrule install tool (PN 4493).
With the finish built up in the holes, the ferrules became press fit. Just easy downward force on the drill press and done.
BTW, you can see the super glue really cleaned up those furrows.
Not a perfect repair, but far far far better than it was!
Which came first, the chicken or the egg?
Which installs first...neck or bridge?
Spent early Sunday doing layout work with the neck, bridge, pickguard, and control plate...and a mess of blue painters tape!
I had to pick up a new clamp to hold the neck. Its a 12 inch clamp, with 2.5" throat (Bessey GSCC2.512). Needed this clamp to have a soft pad to land on the frets, and a throat to provide clearance to run strings to check alignment.
I read several tutorials and watched several Youtubes. Didn't write the sources down, so can't give credit where due.
- Layed out the neck such that straight lines drawn from the edge of the heel to the bottom of the guitar were equi-distant to the outer string thru holes.
- Used these lines to layout the footprint of the bridge
- Placed the bridge, and installed the E and e strings to confirm layout was good. I used a roughed in nut, which is why I used the E and e strings.
- Placed the pickguard and control cover to make sure everything would align.
- Everything looked good, so marked the bridge mounting hole locations and center-punched the neck holes with an 1/8" brad bit and small hammer.
Drilled the neck mounting holes with the 1/8" brad bit.
Next neck, I'll see if I can do this before I sand in the fret radius!
- I attached the neck.
- Double checked the bridge location and attached.
- Located the centerline of the control cavity cover.
- Located the pickguard between the neck and bridge, with the cutout aligned with the control cover centerline...and attached.
-Then, attached the control cover.
I centerpunched everything prior to drilling.
For #6 bridge screws, made 7/64" pilot holes.
For #2 pickguard and control cavity screws, made 1/16" pilot holes.
Waxed all of the screws prior to assembly - no power tools!
Got a fair amount of assembly done this weekend.
Made a couple mistakes along the way.
The centerpunches weren't always centered.
This resulted in the bridge twisting ever so slightly when the screws were tightened. It seems like it shifted by 1/32". I didn't notice until I installed the pickguard. A slightly uneven gap is visible between the two.
And I've got one unsightly screw at the top of my control plate.
So, I take a ding on fit and finish, but I think I can live with both issues.
FWIW, my friend said he would not have noticed either issue if I had not told him.
Finished body weighed in at 4.5 lbs before I started attaching stuff.
With the hardware so far installed, the guitar is lighter than either strat I own. Switches and knobs probably won't change this much. I'll get a finished weight once I'm done.
"Swamp Ash" is pretty light. With the beefy neck on it, there is noticeable neck dive. Probably nothing horrible, just a weight imbalance that I'm not used to. Anyone that plays a bass would probably laugh at my observation.
More to come this week!
Boring Post about Pick Up Springs
...just biding my time till I get more time to assemble this weekend.
I pulled the pickups out 'cause I didn't think the tubing that came with my Seymour Duncans would give me the range of height adjustment that would be needed.
Was going to just pick up some tubing, and cut longer lengths.
Couldn't find any me time to get out of the house for my selfish little project, and Amazon was only selling stuff in about 50' lengths.
So, found IKN springs on Amazon, and I'm really happy with what I got.
I ordered 12x7-5 mm conical springs for the bridge pickup and 22x7-5.5 mm conical springs for the neck pick up.
I like conical springs 'cause they tend to compress to the shortest possible height. And I'm not sure where these pickups will need to end up.
The 50 pack of 12 mm springs was about $4 on Amazon with free shipping, and came with a guitar pick. Ah, the little things.
The 50 pack of 22 mm springs was $6, and because I placed this as a separate order, I got another pick
I used the 12 mm springs for the bridge pickup. I get way more range of adjustment than I would with tubing. They compress to about the same height as the tubing I had, and maintain compression thru the length of the adjustment screw.
No, I won't ever adjust the pick up that low or high...but I can if I want to!
Used the 22 mm spring on the neck pickup.
OK, now I just need some time to finish assembly of my guitar!!!
...I hope my wife and kids sleep in on Saturday morning
Got an early start on assembly work Saturday morning.
Installed the bridge and bridge pickup (Seymour Duncan STL-1).
Installed the neck pick up (Seymour Duncan STR-1). A bit of a pain to do with the springs over the screws!
Then took the body out to the drill press in the garage to chamfer the pick guard screw holes just a touch. No small feat considering the temp was 1 degree at that time.
I had to chamfer them, as the holes volcanoes a bit when I initially drilled them. The pick guard wouldn't sit flat.
One final pic of my shielding before I start to button this up.
I had to paint the wrap over around the cavities in order for the shielding paint to contact the bridge, control cover, and pick guard shielding.
I painted on 3 coats, so took the opportunity to add 3 more coats inside the cavities. The resistance dropped, so conductivity improved!
Jack Cup Install
When I ordered the jack cup, I mistakenly ordered an original style cup - no screws. So, I ordered an electrosocket from Amazon, and received the most shoddy piece of plated plastic I've ever seen. Link below - don't buy this one!
Amazon.com: Jack plate - Electrosocket, for Tele, Chrome: Musical [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@41-UZWYHtML
I stuck with the original (Fender 099-1941-000), and ordered the jack install tool from stewmac (PN 4321).
Directions were straight forward. Just had to protect the finish with some painters tape.
Once the retainer clip is installed for the jack , 1/2 of the tool needs to be pushed thru the jack bore into the control cavity. I had to do this with a small screwdriver and small hammer.
Retainer clip installed. Not sure how durable this is going to be.
...probably a reason electrosockets are so popular.
Jack installed with jack cup.
This doesn't sit flush with the surface, but I'm not sure its supposed to. The edges are nicely chromed, so it looks nice as-is.
Next up - the nut.
A month back, I sanded the bone nut to proper thickness. I further roughed it in on the ROSS by adding 0.030" to the 1st fret height, and then giving it some extra.
I then used the string spacing guide I found earlier (click here, post #29), and marked the string spacing (offset the E and e strings by 1/8 from each edge).
Used some scrap MDF to support the nut and align my fret saw to start the slots.
I then used my nut files to create the slots. I think this is the set I ordered from Amazon when I did my kit strat.
Amazon.com: Andoer Guitar Luthier Repair Tools Kit Set with Files Stainless Steel Ruler Winder String Action Gauge: Musical [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@41OXZnpCg3L
I didn't file the slots down very far. I just wanted something to retain the strings - have a starting point when I set this thing up.
Its rough looking, but it allowed me to string it up!
I got to play humble-pie-caster for the first time
The action was so horrendous, it went out of tune when I pressed the strings down! I mean, it went WAY out of tune!
Haven't done much in the way of wiring over the years, much less with a guitar.
So, found some reference pics to go along with the wiring diagram from Seymour Duncan.
Its 99% standard Tele wiring. The only trick is a no load pot for tone control (Fender 099-0833-000). Both tone and volume pots are 250k. The volume pot is standard from Fender (099-0831-000).
Wired it up just like the directions and pics showed. I replaced the 0.022 uF capacitor that came with the tone pot with a 0.047 uF capacitor per Seymour Duncan recommendations.
Used cloth covered, pre-tinned wire and 60-40 solid core rosin, in excess. Tried to make my parts look like my reference pics.
You might notice an extra ground wire attached to the jack. This is my shielding ground that attaches to the inner wall of the cavity.
Buttoned it up and attached the knobs (Fender 099-2056-000).
These are some serious knobs. The mass of these two knobs will correct any neck dive I might have!
The shaft height was different between pots, so I had to adjust the position of the tone knob on the shaft to match the gap on the volume knob (gap between bottom of knob and control plate).
Plugged it in, and it played
Horrible action, some buzz from the D and G strings, but it PLAYED!!!
Some stats...well, all of the stats.
Body: Single piece "swamp ash"
Finish: Dyed vintage amber with medium brown grain fill under shellac and nitro lacquer
Bridge: Joe Barden 3 saddle bridge with compensated brass saddles
Tuners: Gotoh vintage locking with oval knobs
Pickguard: Unfinished Garolite
Knobs: Knurled dome
Switch: Std. 3 way
Neck: One piece maple with walnut filler strip and plug
Shape: Soft "V" (0.850" @ 1st fret / 0.980" @ 12th)
Fret Radius: 7.25"
Frets: 21 Warmoth 6150
Nut Width: 1-11/16"
Truss Rod: Vintage single action heel adjust
Pickups: Seymour Duncan STR-1 (neck) and STL-1 (bridge)
Weight: 7.3 lbs
I have a ton of tuning to do yet, but couldn't be happier!
I'll post more pics after I get humble-pie-caster cleaned up and tuned up a bit more!
Thanks for sticking with me.
Special thanks to everyone who offered advice - was never steered wrong.
This build could not have happened without everyone at TDPRI!
Video? Let's hear it!
Congrats! Looks great. That "1st play" IS a thrill, isn't it.
Thanks! Its been an adventure!
I'll post a video as soon as I can. It is a first build, so there is a fair amount of setup work to be done!
As I played the higher frets, it got to be a bit of a mess. I'm hopeful that with some adjustments here and there, I can work out the kinks without finding major problems.
Oh, man, was I happy to hear it make sound!
I tuned it after I strung it up and played it acoustic.
I want to say the sustain was better than my other guitars. Without a doubt, though, the notes are fuller. I think this is the influence of the bone nut - all of my other guitars have plastic nuts. Wow, a dramatic difference.
After I got it wired up, and I heard it thru the amp...just WOW!
I can't wire a light switch correctly on my first attempt. Could not believe it!
I then played it for about an hour, buzz, fret outs, and all.
Will try to clean this thing up over the next couple nights.
She's a beauty man! Hell of a job, we need a vid! rock it
I ran out of time to set it up over the weekend. But I think I'll have it ready for a video soon. I'd love to rock it, but my ability...well, you'll see.
The guitar gods smiled upon me last night.
Kids were put to bed, and I took over the kitchen to work on setup.
Won't go into a lot of detail here. The following link details the directions I used for my kit strat, and the idea works for tele styles also.
In a nut shell...
- My saddles were too low, so moved 'em up to get string spacing ~ 3/64" over the 12th fret
- The neck relief was good (about 1/64" @ 8/9th fret with strings pushed against 1st and 21st fret) - no truss rod adjustment made
- The nut slots were way too high, strings were 3/32" over the 1st fret
The buzz and fret outs went away after the saddles were upped.
The saddles are now a touch too high. I'll dial this in after the nut is filed a bit more.
I filed the nut for a while, but had to quit when my hand cramped up.
I only improved string spacing @ the 1st fret to 1/16". Better, but still way too high.
I'll take the nut back to the ROSS tonight, and get some material off of it so its easier to file.
Got some fret sprout to fix...GRRRR.