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Scratch Tele Build

Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by MM73, Feb 26, 2015.

  1. barbrainy

    barbrainy RIP

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    Do not listen to this suggestion.


    Start another two.





    At least.
     
  2. ehawley

    ehawley Tele-Afflicted

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    HAHA!...you're welcome...at least I can take credit for sending other people down the road of insanity!!!!
     
  3. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    OK

    Maple.jpg

    One flat sawn, one quarter sawn.
    Glad you didn't ask for three, these two are all I've got on hand so far!



    My wife just shakes her head when she sees me sanding stuff.
     
  4. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    Count me as one of them! Thanks Ed! As far as I know there's no cure...:lol:
     
  5. ehawley

    ehawley Tele-Afflicted

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    My pleasure... It's the best pastime there is!!
     
  6. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Progress

    Been a fairly good weekend for humble-pie-caster in that the progress made resulted in no major mistakes ;)

    My first attempt at wet sanding swelled the wood and cracked the finish. Even after respraying lacquer, deep furrows remained. The pics are a couple post back.

    Prior to wet sanding again, I tried my hand at repairing the furrows in the finish (which I figured would be likely to crack again).

    I filled the furrows with Loctite 4G gel control superglue, and wiped it level with a plastic putty knife.

    Finish Repair 06Feb2016.jpg

    Waited a couple minutes, then started wet sanding.
    This time, I filled my string thru holes with plumbers putty.

    Started at 400 grit, then moved to 1800 micromesh, and on thru 12,000 micromesh.
    No water damage this time :D

    Moved on to string ferrule install.

    I'd been having a run of bad luck trying to get this finish work done, so consoled myself by buying the Stewmac sting ferrule install tool (PN 4493).

    String Ferrule Install 06Feb2016.jpg

    With the finish built up in the holes, the ferrules became press fit. Just easy downward force on the drill press and done.

    String Ferrules 06Feb2016.jpg

    BTW, you can see the super glue really cleaned up those furrows.
    Not a perfect repair, but far far far better than it was!
     
  7. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Which came first, the chicken or the egg?

    Which installs first...neck or bridge?

    Spent early Sunday doing layout work with the neck, bridge, pickguard, and control plate...and a mess of blue painters tape!

    Neck and Bridge Layout 07Feb2016.jpg

    I had to pick up a new clamp to hold the neck. Its a 12 inch clamp, with 2.5" throat (Bessey GSCC2.512). Needed this clamp to have a soft pad to land on the frets, and a throat to provide clearance to run strings to check alignment.

    I read several tutorials and watched several Youtubes. Didn't write the sources down, so can't give credit where due.

    Onward!
    - Layed out the neck such that straight lines drawn from the edge of the heel to the bottom of the guitar were equi-distant to the outer string thru holes.
    - Used these lines to layout the footprint of the bridge
    - Placed the bridge, and installed the E and e strings to confirm layout was good. I used a roughed in nut, which is why I used the E and e strings.
    - Placed the pickguard and control cover to make sure everything would align.
    - Everything looked good, so marked the bridge mounting hole locations and center-punched the neck holes with an 1/8" brad bit and small hammer.

    Drilled the neck mounting holes with the 1/8" brad bit.
    Next neck, I'll see if I can do this before I sand in the fret radius!

    Neck Mounting Holes 07Feb2016.jpg

    - I attached the neck.
    - Double checked the bridge location and attached.
    - Located the centerline of the control cavity cover.
    - Located the pickguard between the neck and bridge, with the cutout aligned with the control cover centerline...and attached.
    -Then, attached the control cover.

    I centerpunched everything prior to drilling.
    For #6 bridge screws, made 7/64" pilot holes.
    For #2 pickguard and control cavity screws, made 1/16" pilot holes.
    Waxed all of the screws prior to assembly - no power tools!

    Got a fair amount of assembly done this weekend.

    Assembly 07Feb2016.jpg

    Made a couple mistakes along the way.
    The centerpunches weren't always centered.
    This resulted in the bridge twisting ever so slightly when the screws were tightened. It seems like it shifted by 1/32". I didn't notice until I installed the pickguard. A slightly uneven gap is visible between the two.

    Bridge to Guard Gap 07Feb2016.jpg

    And I've got one unsightly screw at the top of my control plate.
    So, I take a ding on fit and finish, but I think I can live with both issues.
    FWIW, my friend said he would not have noticed either issue if I had not told him.

    Other stuff...
    Finished body weighed in at 4.5 lbs before I started attaching stuff.
    With the hardware so far installed, the guitar is lighter than either strat I own. Switches and knobs probably won't change this much. I'll get a finished weight once I'm done.
    "Swamp Ash" is pretty light. With the beefy neck on it, there is noticeable neck dive. Probably nothing horrible, just a weight imbalance that I'm not used to. Anyone that plays a bass would probably laugh at my observation.

    More to come this week!
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2016
  8. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Boring Post about Pick Up Springs

    ...just biding my time till I get more time to assemble this weekend.

    I pulled the pickups out 'cause I didn't think the tubing that came with my Seymour Duncans would give me the range of height adjustment that would be needed.

    Was going to just pick up some tubing, and cut longer lengths.
    Couldn't find any me time to get out of the house for my selfish little project, and Amazon was only selling stuff in about 50' lengths.

    So, found IKN springs on Amazon, and I'm really happy with what I got.

    IKN Springs 11Feb2016.jpg

    I ordered 12x7-5 mm conical springs for the bridge pickup and 22x7-5.5 mm conical springs for the neck pick up.

    I like conical springs 'cause they tend to compress to the shortest possible height. And I'm not sure where these pickups will need to end up.

    The 50 pack of 12 mm springs was about $4 on Amazon with free shipping, and came with a guitar pick. Ah, the little things. :D
    The 50 pack of 22 mm springs was $6, and because I placed this as a separate order, I got another pick :D

    I used the 12 mm springs for the bridge pickup. I get way more range of adjustment than I would with tubing. They compress to about the same height as the tubing I had, and maintain compression thru the length of the adjustment screw.

    Bridge Pickup IKN 11Feb2016.jpg

    Bridge Pickup Max Adjustment 11Feb2016.jpg

    No, I won't ever adjust the pick up that low or high...but I can if I want to!

    Used the 22 mm spring on the neck pickup.

    Neck Pickup Spring IKN 11Feb2016.jpg

    OK, now I just need some time to finish assembly of my guitar!!!
    ...I hope my wife and kids sleep in on Saturday morning :D
     
  9. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Pickups In

    Got an early start on assembly work Saturday morning.

    4 am

    Installed the bridge and bridge pickup (Seymour Duncan STL-1).

    Bridge Pickup 13Feb2016.jpg

    Installed the neck pick up (Seymour Duncan STR-1). A bit of a pain to do with the springs over the screws!

    Neck Pickup 13Feb2016.jpg

    Then took the body out to the drill press in the garage to chamfer the pick guard screw holes just a touch. No small feat considering the temp was 1 degree at that time.

    Pick Guard Hole Chamfer 13Feb2016.jpg

    I had to chamfer them, as the holes volcanoes a bit when I initially drilled them. The pick guard wouldn't sit flat.

    One final pic of my shielding before I start to button this up.

    Shielding 13Feb2016.jpg

    I had to paint the wrap over around the cavities in order for the shielding paint to contact the bridge, control cover, and pick guard shielding.
    I painted on 3 coats, so took the opportunity to add 3 more coats inside the cavities. The resistance dropped, so conductivity improved!
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2016
  10. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Jack Cup Install

    When I ordered the jack cup, I mistakenly ordered an original style cup - no screws. So, I ordered an electrosocket from Amazon, and received the most shoddy piece of plated plastic I've ever seen. Link below - don't buy this one!
    Amazon.com: Jack plate - Electrosocket, for Tele, Chrome: Musical Instruments@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41-UZWYHtML.@@AMEPARAM@@41-UZWYHtML

    I stuck with the original (Fender 099-1941-000), and ordered the jack install tool from stewmac (PN 4321).

    Jack Cup Parts 13Feb2016.jpg

    Directions were straight forward. Just had to protect the finish with some painters tape.

    Retainer Clip Install 13Feb2016.jpg

    Once the retainer clip is installed for the jack , 1/2 of the tool needs to be pushed thru the jack bore into the control cavity. I had to do this with a small screwdriver and small hammer.

    Retainer clip installed. Not sure how durable this is going to be.

    Retainer Clip 13Feb2016.jpg

    ...probably a reason electrosockets are so popular.

    Jack installed with jack cup.

    Jack Cup 13Feb2016.jpg

    This doesn't sit flush with the surface, but I'm not sure its supposed to. The edges are nicely chromed, so it looks nice as-is.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  11. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Nut

    Next up - the nut.

    A month back, I sanded the bone nut to proper thickness. I further roughed it in on the ROSS by adding 0.030" to the 1st fret height, and then giving it some extra.

    Rough Shaping Bone Nut 13Feb2016.jpg

    I then used the string spacing guide I found earlier (click here, post #29), and marked the string spacing (offset the E and e strings by 1/8 from each edge).
    Used some scrap MDF to support the nut and align my fret saw to start the slots.

    Nut Slots 13Feb2016.jpg

    I then used my nut files to create the slots. I think this is the set I ordered from Amazon when I did my kit strat.

    Amazon.com: Andoer Guitar Luthier Repair Tools Kit Set with Files Stainless Steel Ruler Winder String Action Gauge: Musical Instruments@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41OXZnpCg3L.@@AMEPARAM@@41OXZnpCg3L

    I didn't file the slots down very far. I just wanted something to retain the strings - have a starting point when I set this thing up.

    Very Rough Nut 13Feb2016.jpg

    Its rough looking, but it allowed me to string it up! :lol:

    Strings 13Feb2016.jpg

    I got to play humble-pie-caster for the first time :D

    The action was so horrendous, it went out of tune when I pressed the strings down! I mean, it went WAY out of tune!
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  12. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Wiring

    Haven't done much in the way of wiring over the years, much less with a guitar.
    So, found some reference pics to go along with the wiring diagram from Seymour Duncan.

    Its 99% standard Tele wiring. The only trick is a no load pot for tone control (Fender 099-0833-000). Both tone and volume pots are 250k. The volume pot is standard from Fender (099-0831-000).

    Wiring Prep 14Feb2016.jpg

    Wired it up just like the directions and pics showed. I replaced the 0.022 uF capacitor that came with the tone pot with a 0.047 uF capacitor per Seymour Duncan recommendations.

    Used cloth covered, pre-tinned wire and 60-40 solid core rosin, in excess. Tried to make my parts look like my reference pics.

    Wiring with Shoddy Solder Work 14Feb2016.jpg

    You might notice an extra ground wire attached to the jack. This is my shielding ground that attaches to the inner wall of the cavity.

    Buttoned it up and attached the knobs (Fender 099-2056-000).
    These are some serious knobs. The mass of these two knobs will correct any neck dive I might have!
    The shaft height was different between pots, so I had to adjust the position of the tone knob on the shaft to match the gap on the volume knob (gap between bottom of knob and control plate).

    Control Plate and Knobs Installed 14Feb2016.jpg

    Plugged it in, and it played :D:D:D
    Horrible action, some buzz from the D and G strings, but it PLAYED!!!:D:D:D
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2016
  13. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Whats Next???

    DONE

    :lol: :eek: :cool:

    Done 14Feb2016.jpg

    Some stats...well, all of the stats.
    Body: Single piece "swamp ash"
    Finish: Dyed vintage amber with medium brown grain fill under shellac and nitro lacquer

    Bridge: Joe Barden 3 saddle bridge with compensated brass saddles
    Tuners: Gotoh vintage locking with oval knobs
    Pickguard: Unfinished Garolite
    Knobs: Knurled dome
    Switch: Std. 3 way

    Neck: One piece maple with walnut filler strip and plug
    Finish: Tru-oil
    Shape: Soft "V" (0.850" @ 1st fret / 0.980" @ 12th)
    Fret Radius: 7.25"
    Frets: 21 Warmoth 6150
    Nut: Bone
    Nut Width: 1-11/16"
    Truss Rod: Vintage single action heel adjust

    Pickups: Seymour Duncan STR-1 (neck) and STL-1 (bridge)

    Weight: 7.3 lbs

    I have a ton of tuning to do yet, but couldn't be happier!
    I'll post more pics after I get humble-pie-caster cleaned up and tuned up a bit more!

    Cheers All!
    Thanks for sticking with me.
    Special thanks to everyone who offered advice - was never steered wrong.
    This build could not have happened without everyone at TDPRI!
     
  14. nickhofen

    nickhofen Friend of Leo's

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    Wow,excellent!!!
     
  15. RickyRicardo

    RickyRicardo Friend of Leo's

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    Video? Let's hear it!
     
  16. twocup

    twocup Tele-Meister

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    Congrats! Looks great. That "1st play" IS a thrill, isn't it.
     
  17. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks! Its been an adventure!

    I'll post a video as soon as I can. It is a first build, so there is a fair amount of setup work to be done!
    As I played the higher frets, it got to be a bit of a mess. I'm hopeful that with some adjustments here and there, I can work out the kinks without finding major problems.

    Oh, man, was I happy to hear it make sound!
    I tuned it after I strung it up and played it acoustic.
    I want to say the sustain was better than my other guitars. Without a doubt, though, the notes are fuller. I think this is the influence of the bone nut - all of my other guitars have plastic nuts. Wow, a dramatic difference.
    After I got it wired up, and I heard it thru the amp...just WOW!
    I can't wire a light switch correctly on my first attempt. Could not believe it!
    I then played it for about an hour, buzz, fret outs, and all.
    Will try to clean this thing up over the next couple nights.
     
  18. Captain Nutslot

    Captain Nutslot Friend of Leo's Silver Supporter

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    She's a beauty man! Hell of a job, we need a vid! rock it
     
  19. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Thanks Captain.

    I ran out of time to set it up over the weekend. But I think I'll have it ready for a video soon. I'd love to rock it, but my ability...well, you'll see.

    Guitar.jpg
     
  20. MM73

    MM73 Tele-Afflicted

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    Setup

    The guitar gods smiled upon me last night.

    Kids were put to bed, and I took over the kitchen to work on setup.

    Won't go into a lot of detail here. The following link details the directions I used for my kit strat, and the idea works for tele styles also.

    Guitar Setup

    In a nut shell...
    - My saddles were too low, so moved 'em up to get string spacing ~ 3/64" over the 12th fret
    - The neck relief was good (about 1/64" @ 8/9th fret with strings pushed against 1st and 21st fret) - no truss rod adjustment made
    - The nut slots were way too high, strings were 3/32" over the 1st fret :oops:

    The buzz and fret outs went away after the saddles were upped.
    The saddles are now a touch too high. I'll dial this in after the nut is filed a bit more.

    Saddle Adjust 16Feb2016.jpg

    I filed the nut for a while, but had to quit when my hand cramped up.

    Action 16Feb2016.jpg

    I only improved string spacing @ the 1st fret to 1/16". Better, but still way too high.
    I'll take the nut back to the ROSS tonight, and get some material off of it so its easier to file.

    Got some fret sprout to fix...GRRRR.

    Getting closer :lol:
     
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