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Discussion in 'Tele Home Depot' started by MM73, Feb 26, 2015.
Over Christmas, he sold his soul to Santa (He's dyslexic).
Great. Now every time I look at this thread, I get the movie Roadhouse going through my head.
Curse you, Patrick Swayze, and your diabolical grip on the female of the species!
Satin sounds great, but really, why even that much effort?
Is orange peel really all that bad?
Nobody puts baby, or the Napoleanic Swayze pillow in a corner!
Well, unless it works to tie in some of the room colors.
He just sorta completes the room - makes it somewhat regal.
Fear is a Great Motivator
I'm posting this as a warning for others.
If anyone thinks they are just going to slather on the water before wet sanding, I hope you think of this picture.
If you are going to wet sand with water, be dang sure the water doesn't get under the lacquer.
I had some water issues on my kit strat, but it was basswood - just lifted some paint around the screw holes.
Ash is like a superhighway for water. It carries far...and all you can do is watch.
This pic is after I sprayed 2 coats of lacquer to heal the cracks in the finish.
Once cured, I'll fine sand and polish.
It is what it is. Time to move on.
Sort of kinda starting assembly work
Can't do much with the body, but I can rough in the nut on the neck.
Not sure why I didn't cut my nut slot with the 1/8" router bit that I have, but I didn't.
And ended up with a slot 0.160" wide.
Way too loose for an 1/8" nut.
So ordered a bigger nut blank from Amazon (Allparts 2-1/8" x 15/32" x 1/4"). It was the closest I could find for what I needed...but a bit on the thick side!
What is the biggest thing I've learned since I started this guitar build?
I sand everything. I sand all the time. Most times, I re-sand.
This nut started at 0.270". It took a while to carefully take it down to 0.159", and maintain the thickness from end to end.
Once to shape, I fine sanded thru 2000...cause I had the paper.
Now I wait till I can get the neck bolted on before I can do anything else.
Well, I can screw around, or screw up some other stuff.
Since I have some extra time here (waiting for lacquer to cure), figured I'd try my hand at one of those garolite pick guards.
I'll finish up the template tomorrow, and maybe cut garolite too.
That made my day!
They look like character lines to me - embrace them!
I had good luck shaping garolite with a flush trim router bit - i sandwiched it (tight) between 2 identical templates.
Lookin forward to seein this one put together....
Character lines - I like it.
Its getting past time to finish this one up.
My build thread is getting to be like a kid thats too old to be out trick or treating.
It needs to be working for its living now.
Reverse Template Pick Guard
Day 7 of watching lacquer cure.
I have a Fender pick guard. Nice. Pricey. But my random searches on this site brought garolite into my life. Love the look. Love the texture.
I aim to cut it and use it as-is.
A while back, I ordered a sheet from McMaster Carr, PN 85315K161. Its a 2' x 2' sheet, 1/16" thick.
After reading an R. Kirn tutorial on garolite pickguards, I test fit the guard I had, and found that the fit looked right to me.
So, I took the Fender guard I have, and traced the shape onto a piece of 1/2" MDF. Then rough cut it and took it out to the ROSS to sand to shape.
It was about 15 degrees out in the garage that night. I was having trouble sanding in the neck area, so came back inside. It was at that moment, I figured I could use my plastic pick guard as a template, and just route the shape.
Taped the guard onto the MDF with 2 sided carpet tape, just in the corners, with the pretty side facing out (so I wouldn't scratch it up when I peeled it off the MDF with a putty knife).
Then covered the exposed surface with painters tape to protect it while I drag it across my router table.
Setup seemed a bit dicey. I set the depth so the bearing would ride along the edge of the guard. I've never routed on a bearing surface only 1/16" wide.
Felt like I could mess up my guard if I didn't keep it flat, but couldn't think of a reason why not to do it this way. Unconventional, but didn't feel unsafe.
So, routed it. No problem. I drilled the screw holes with a 3/16" bit (will probably open it up with an 1/8" bit later).
Actually, I need to re-setup and clean out some material in the corners where the guard wraps around the bridge. I didn't get the router into those corners deep enough.
I'll plan to rough cut the garolite with a coping saw next, then route away.
I did a follow up search on the TDPRI to see if this had been done this way before, and found a thread from Jack Wells. Good enough for Mr. Wells, good enough for me.
I've used a pickguard before as a template. I just used wood blocks with carpet tape on both sides of the block to raise it up from the material I was cutting. It worked. As long as the pickguard doesn't move and you trim off the majority of the material beforehand, and the bearing stays put... it works. You just keep your fingers away from the cutter like always....
+1 on all those points.
I bottomed out the bearing to make sure it would not shift (did not rely on the collet with allen screw).
There was still a small gap between the bearing and bit, which left a lip on the template that was easily cleaned up with a second pass.
This gap messed me up a bit, as areas with excess material prevented the guard from contacting the bearing.
So, in the end, I still had to do a lot of sanding on the ROSS to get it close to the line before routing.
I'll use the wood block/shim idea next time I do this - keep the pick guard in the middle of the bearing!
I also realized while routing that I've never routed anything as small as a pickguard. Kept a close eye on my fingers and feed direction!!!
Perhaps next time, I'll screw a couple blocks onto the MDF to use as handles.
Yeah, usually what I do is take a piece of scrap wood that is about 1/4" thick and make some different shaped blocks out of it...skinny and fat. Then I lay those down on carpet tape and cut those out with a utility knife. Then I set the other sides of the blocks down on a second piece of carpet tape and cut those out. I put pieces everywhere on the pickguard pattern to give the support so that it doesn't bend while holding onto it. After peeling the plastic off, it gets stuck to the pickguard material, and then the pickguard. I'll trim around the pickguard/pattern with a margin of excess on the bandsaw. You don't want to ruin the good pickguard. Then it's just a matter of flush trimming. So it is direct from pickguard to pickguard. I feel safer doing it that way then pickguard to template material, because of the amount being removed is less than .125".
There are no Gimmees in Guitar Building
So I thought that I'd just turn on the router and crank out one of these garolite pick guards.
Started with my 1/16" thick garolite, a 2' x 2' sheet from McMaster Carr.
Proceeded to destroy one corner of the sheet when I tried cutting it with my jigsaw...chips flying everywhere!
I had to rough out the shape with my drill press and coping saw...its the only fine toothed saw I own.
I cleaned up the outer edge on the ROSS before routing it, but couldn't get the smallest sanding drum into the hole for the pickup route, so just filed it a bit.
Then proceeded to ruin the pick guard on the router.
Perhaps if I had sandwiched the garolite between sheets of MDF this could have been avoided?
...just like Meteorman suggested
Sometimes, the only cure for lazy is failure.
Ode to Garolite
I thought this was going to be simple.
Was only going to cut a shape out of material 1/16" thick!
Heck, I contemplated just skipping the rough cut altogether!
Garolite pretty much owned me in Round 1.
I was not going to underestimate my opponent this time around.
Started by taping my template onto the "down" side of Garolite with 2 sided carpet tape. Just 4 little pieces in the corner...I've learned you don't need a lot of this stuff to get a good grip.
Then, rough cut the shape with my coping saw.
Took it to the ROSS to take it close to the line.
Covered the "up" side with painters tape, and then taped a second piece of rough cut MDF on top to create a Garolite sandwich.
This time, I routed it with a bottom bearing bit. I learned to use my router with the top bearing bit I used for my first pick guard attempt. That bit has led a short, but hard life. I wanted to cut the Garolite with the sharpest bit I owned.
After drilling pilot holes with a 3/8" forstner bit for the pickup route, I spent a fair amount of time cleaning it up with a mill file. I left way too much material in there on the first attempt...and also fed it the wrong way!
C'mon, I've never done many inside routes!
As it turns out, the 1/2" router bit just fits inside the pickup route.
Routed it cleanly this time.
Next, I drilled the screw holes with a 3/32" straight bit.
After pulling the sandwich apart, I drilled the counterbore.
I used my Fender pick guard to set the depth of the counterbore.
I used an 82 degree counterbore, T60038 from Amazon by Task Tools. Also had to set the guard on some scrap MDF to keep it from flexing.
Fit is right enough for me.
This turned out be a fun little side project while my lacquer cured on the body.
Happy day, I figure the lacquer on the body has now cured enough for wet sanding again.
Back in business!
I had my doubts after the first two coats. I checked resistance after each coat dried, and resistance was infinite...no conductivity.
Put the 3rd coat on, just like the directions say (Stewmac conductive shielding paint), and it worked!
Then I put a 4th coat on, 'cause more is always better, right?
I'm measuring resistance between the neck pickup route and the output jack hole.
The reistance is much less as the probes get closer, ~ 35 ohms. Sure, its not nearly as conductive as the copper, but I'll live with it. None of my cheapie guitars have shielding, so I'll consider this an incremental improvement.
I got into the passages with my kid's craft pipe cleaners and painted the cavities with some disposable foam brushes I had laying around.
Kind of a hassle waiting 4 days for 4 coats to dry, but super easy to do.
On to wet sanding again.
I waited to get this paint into the cavities to give me another layer of protection from water!
I do still need to finish my faraday cage by putting copper tape on the pickguard and figuring out the grounding, etc.
Looking good MM73. Don't over think things though...after all... it is a tele!!......keep up the good work!
Overthinking is what I do <sigh>.
However, I don't see myself mustering the ambition to post my every thought on any future build!
...I'm sure this is some kind of attention seeking disorder.
This keeps me off Facebook tho.
If this is the Mr. Hawley responsible for "tele_body_drawing_revD", many thanks for helping me get this ball rolling!
Quick! Start another one! You know you want to!